Santuaria della Consalata, Pingone, Burgheria and the Mozart hotel

Friday 10 November (Day Fifty-four)

Today Krish was going on a tour to Thales Aerospace and I stayed behind.  It was a lovely clear morning.

I stopped by the pasta shop to buy some ravioli. I feel like my Italian has halted and I need more practice! However, at least I can buy what I want and make myself understood. It’s vocabulary and fluency that I need to build.

I’ve decided to stop by the lovely little toy shop in the Quadrilatero and also visit the Santuaria della Consalata, since I had loved it on my very brief visit earlier.

The toy shop was chaotic as expected from the window and I had a lovely (English) chat with the owner about ‘Made in China.’ Bottom line, the items made in China are about a quarter of the price of those made in Italy, Germany or Czech. That’s a huge difference.

I went in to the Consolata and again was struck by how beautiful it was. There are several domed areas and each is different. Little chapels, a prayer area with confessionals, altars, an organ, balconies… This is a real treasure and, although I prefer plain, humble churches, this one has really caught my imagination. I wander around as quietly as I can among the people praying, and I light a candle to my mum and dad and whisper a silent thank you to them.

I head over to the little square at IV Marzo and treat myself to an ice cream. I choose lemon and sage (can’t taste the sage), and Crema d’uova. It’s delicious. I took a photo to show how very small the cups of gelato are. I haven’t ever wished they were bigger. It’s just enough for me.

Yes, I ate it all!

Up on the large dome at the Duomo that houses the shroud, I see they are hard at work, the orange construction vests contrasting with the grey of the dome and the scaffolding.

And then through the Porta Palatina, noticing the building near to the entrance. I’ve not looked at it as closely before and it’s apparently one of the oldest in the city.

Krish gets home and we have some ravioli and relax.
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More rain and changed plans

Thursday, 9 November (Day Fifty-three)

Today we thought of a plan – we would go to Lavazza to check out the bistrot (cafeteria) and see how the construction was coming along, and we’d tour the opera house – Teatro Regio. We hoped we could dodge the raindrops. It was decidedly soggy but we didn’t want to let this keep us indoors.

Bikes in the rain by the Dora
Bikes in the rain by the Dora

The Bistrot is a cafeteria within the Lavazza Complex on via Bologna. We were pretty sure that, although this is intended for Lavazza employees, the public were welcome and we were right. One of the receptionists handed us each a card where we would register the food we’d buy once upstairs.

There are some fancy looking electronic coffee machines on the main floor – one euro for a cup. Then a lobby, a lift, and stairs up to the cafeteria first floor.

Lavazza cafeteria
Lavazza cafeteria

Its like a school or hospital cafeteria in there, a sort of food court look. Two stations against the far wall that sell pizzas, pastas, and main dishes. And one central station for salads and soups. We can’t see any drinks and there is only fruit for dessert. Healthy! There is, however, a couple of self service stations for free water (still and sparkling) and a bank of bottles of olive oil and vinegar. Nothing else.

We browse around and settle on a main of grilled calamari and duchesse potatoes, and Krish has a last minute choice of a pizza with no tomato but cheese and walnuts. Then I’m intrigued by a pink vegetable soup so we pick that too.  Verdict: Not bad. Nothing to rush back for. Lavazza, perhaps you could give your employees a price break – our bill was 19.20.

Lavazza lunch
Lavazza lunch

From the window we can see they are coming along quite nicely with the garden that will stand between the cafeteria building and the offices but it won’t be done by the time to leave this city.

Lavazza construction
Lavazza construction

From here we wander into town. It’s still drizzling. Krish wants to visit the British bookstore and then we’ll look around before heading for the opera house tour.

First we go through the Parco Reale and I notice how much the terrain has changed since we first arrived.

The Mole on a rainy Fall day
The Mole on a rainy Fall day

We’re puzzled by not seeing the lights that are supposed to be between the park and Piazza Castello but will need to check this out another time since the rain has started to get a bit more serious.

The opera house has a fantastic gate and, if you’re lucky, as you walk through they will be playing opera on loudspeakers. I took a video but missed the music this time.

The rain is putting paid to doing very much so we decide to stay more or less inside – in gallerias and under porticoes until 3pm when we can buy tour tickets. It may be raining hard but Turin looks pretty good in the rain with its lovely squares and shops. And the British book store is nicely chaotic too.

Shopping under the porticoes
Shopping under the porticoes
British bookstore
British bookstore
Piazza Carignano
Piazza Carignano

Some of the stores have beautiful windows. I wonder who shops in them.

Farmacia
Farmacia
Carlo Villarboito Chocolatiere
Carlo Villarboito Chocolatiere
Ristogastronomia
Ristogastronomia
Shopping inside the Galleria San Federico
Shopping inside the Galleria San Federico

As well, Liat has told me about a grocery store, Fiorfood inside the Galleria San Federico so I go to check that out. It’s very fancy. There are several rooms with expensive food goods, as well as upstairs, a large cafe, then a dining room and kitchen on the mezzanine. It’s eye candy!

Inside the Fiorfood supermarket
Inside the Fiorfood supermarket

Walking past the Egyptian museum we see another free museum that seems to be about space and size. We now don’t have enough time to check it out but  I make a mental note in case we can squeeze it in during Monday or Tuesday.  The rain is heavier again and we’re feeling pretty damp so, although it’s now time to buy our tour tickets for the opera, we’re done! Going back to the flat to dry off and rest seems a much better idea.

I’m really not  minding that the rain forces us to relax and keep ourselves entertained after all.

 

 

E cucina and a very nice view

Monday, 6 November (Day fifty)

Today I decided to try to go out. My bus pass will be working so I’m confident that I can abort the outing at any time.

The rain has been a bit annoying but there is a silver lining. The view from the window today was almost crystal clear. The hills and the Alps look fantastic.

The Alps are so clear
The Alps are so clear

We walk for quite a while in the end. Krish is looking for a hardware store that he saw on our last walk to the Pietro Micca museum area. First we go to the Bialetti store but, although we see some nice things, everything is made in China so that’s a no-go for Krish. Then we don’t find the other hardware store, but it’s good to be out.

There are some interesting things along the way as we explore.

Lion of Venice?
Lion of Venice?
Work relief
Work relief
Vintage Coke ad
Vintage Coke ad

As we walk along on the way home we think about getting some pasta somewhere. And then we saw a restaurant with a queue outside. People are waiting to get into a restaurant space. We can see inside that every table has an interesting basket of bread, ready to go. We bounce it back and forth and then decide that if the locals are so keen to go in, we will too!

Yes, another disappointment. The bread is OK. A server comes to explain the menu but it’s very difficult to understand so she sends over another server to talk to us in English. He’s not a lot easier to understand but we sort of do know what to get and what to do. We each order a pasta and we get one fish main. We get some sparkling water and refuse any wine.

First they bring a little starter. It’s a very small bowl of polenta with one sprig of broccoli, soft enough to cut with a fork. Not bad. The pasta, though, is very al dente. It has a creamy tomato sauce with a few pieces of eggplant and fish. It’s chewy and there’s far too much of it. Neither of us eat more than a half. The fish comes with some sweet potato, more eggplant, and a few pieces of pineapple. It’s not bad. We decide to leave without eating the dessert and Krish goes to pay the bill. I go to the bathroom and meet Krish outside.

Lunch at E Cucina
Lunch at E Cucina

He’s flustered. The bill was thirty euros and he hovers between laughter and dismay. Although we haven’t eaten everything on the fixed menus, we’ve been charged full price for this. Oh no! The only thing to do is carry on and try to let it go.

But there is a nice touch to the day. The Alps are now even clearer and the view is stunning even from the centre of town.

 

The Alps from the centre of town
The Alps from the centre of town

We have a quiet evening!

The market and Calamity

Saturday, Nov 4 (Day Forty-nine)

I walked through the market today to pick up some food. I ended up with my arms full of bags. It was crazy. Today I got ‘eggs from happy chickens’ and was a bit shocked to pay three euros for six of them. Tired, I handed it over and left.  So encumbered by bags as I was, one got broken before I reached home!

The farmers market
The farmers market
Market seller
Market seller

I decided to treat myself to a coffee and squeezed into a tiny coffee bar that had one table. People came in while I was there and there was barely room for me, my packages and them too.

A cappuccino and a pistachio cream croissant
A cappuccino and a pistachio cream croissant

When I got home, I had a message from someone I knew online saying they wanted to meet for a coffee. So after a rest I set off again through the market and down the street to Via Garibaldi. I met Giovanna and her boyfriend, Marco, and had a cup of hot chocolate. We talked about her long years in London and my thoughts on Torino. Too bad we met so late in my trip since she would have been a great resource for me.
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All Saints Day, Churches

Wednesday, 1 November (Day Forty-five)

Today is All Saints Day. The market and many stores are closed. And today we have no more days on our BIP card so the first order of the day is to get it filled up again. Then we plan to go see the rest of the Millo pieces in Barriera di Milano.

When we go out, we can’t find a tobacconist that’s open so we readjust our plans. We’ll stay local and visit a church we’ve seen from the tram.

It’s just a short walk away to the west of us. Along the way there are a few Chinese restaurants that we take note of. I’m feeling a bit ‘off’ today and a bowl of noodle soup sounds perfect. We even find a Chinese bakery. No 2 for a dollar bun here, though – Two euros a piece.

This area of Regina Marguerita is scruffy. People beg along here, they sell goods from shopping carts and carrier bags, and we’ve seen small gangs and individuals selling drugs. Not pretty but all part of city life.

Also to the west is Rondò della Forca (Gallows Corner). It’s a very large intersection with five roads meeting at the roundabout. Between  1835 to 1853 public hangings took place here. It’s also said to the birthplace of the square loaf – “Pancarrè” is a type of sliced bread, whose name is synonymous with “Square Bread”. Born in Turin, its origin is really special. Back in the old times, when an executioner went into a bakery to buy bread he was usually met with the resistance of the baker that was not happy to serve those who dealt in such a trade and, as a sign of contempt, would hand him the loaf upside down. Later on, this practice was banned by an ordinance, however, it was soon overtaken by bakers, who started to produce a new type of square bread, equal on each side, in order to continue undetected with their little “benevolent” custom as an inside joke (from “Alla scoperta del cibo” by Fabrizio Diolaiuti, Sperling & Kupfer).  That’s some history!

The church we’re looking for is called Maria Ausiliatrice – it’s a beauty!

Maria Ausiliatrice
Maria Ausiliatrice
Maria Ausiliatrice dome
Maria Ausiliatrice dome
Fountain for Three
Fountain for Three

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