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A fast visit to Spitalfields Market

Sunday, 17 December, 2017

On the run up to Christmas, there’s one place I wanted to visit and that’s Spitalfields Market. It was raining and cool but it takes only eight minutes by train from Hackney Downs, our nearest train station, to Liverpool Street, the closest station to Spitalfields. There’s so simply no excuse to stay away!

(This history: “Spitalfields takes its name from the hospital and priory, St. Mary’s Spittel that was founded in 1197. Spitalfields served as a microcosm of this polyglot society, the ‘melting pot’ fusion of east and west. Historically, it has played host to a transient community – primarily for new immigrants. From its small beginnings in the 17th Century, Spitalfields Market blossomed…trading six days a week. By 1876 the market had fallen into decline”…a former market porter called Robert Horner…started work on a new market building which was completed in 1893 at a cost of £80,000. The market moved to Leyton in 1991 but at the end of 2005 the Spitalfields regeneration programme restored the original market area. Today it’s filled with “designers / makers and artists selling fashions, homewares and accessories or a treasure trove of vintage and antique clothing, furniture and other wondrous oddments!”

Bronze Sculpture
Bronze Sculpture – must find out the story behind this

This was going to be a whirlwind visit, and I’m sure I’ll be back many times to talk more about Spitalfields but today I walked through, had some lunch, looked at some stalls and left! I was puzzled to see that so many new official looking freestanding kiosks had sprung up and wondered why they were there and if they were permanent. While I love food, I’m not happy with how so many London markets are turning into overpriced food courts.  I didn’t let this take away from the charm of this lovely market, part old, part new, always thriving as it changes  day to day.

The market was ready for Christmas. In the bottom photo a large pile of Christmas costumes was ready for who knows what to come.

I had a coupon for Wagamama so had a small lunch, or at least I thought it might be a small lunch since I chose a child’s meal. Mistake! There was too much food. The ramen was way too big for a child and was bland , flavoured only with Sriracha sauce. The hirata buns (bao) were as nice (and as tiny) as always and could have been enough! Lesson learned. Not a huge fan of Wagamama but a coupon is a coupon and the service was fast and friendly. Free lunch!


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Angel, cooking Mexican food, and snow!

Monday 11 December, 2017

It’s dark before 4pm these days. That seems so early. I can totally understand why there are so many festivals that involve light and fire. I’ve gathered my Christmas lights, placed some strategically, bought the smelly candles, and hunting down the elusive Chanukah candles. (This is getting harder so I think I’ll buy two boxes!) Strange they should be so hard to find in a heavier than average Jewish environment.

At any rate, the living room is slowly taking on a Chistmassy look. It’s a  bit of a jumble at the moment but eventually a bit more effort will snap things into shape.

Jumbled Christmas views
Jumbled Christmas views

I’m also whimsical about my Christmas – Chanukah mix. I have one ancestor who converted to Judaism and I wonder if  it was Mary Ann who snuck the traditions in, or was it merely adaptation across the years after all the various branches migrated to the UK.

One day last week we went out to Angel. It’s a zone 1 area just north of central and just a 20 minute bus ride away from Hackney. Angel retains its independent nature, despite all the chains and franchises that have stealthily crept in. There are lovely churches and greens, a wide high street, a fancier stretch of restaurant after restaurant, three cinemas – two indy – and some mews areas. Soon a new mall will open and it will be interesting to see how this might change the way it looks and operates.

The mews area of Camden Passage has a lot of little shops and cafes. Like most similar places, the prices are a bit steep here. This year it’s not looking as seasonally attractive as other years and the grey weather doesn’t help. I’ll go back after dark when the lights will cheer things up. Meanwhile I did enjoy looking at the windows but didn’t venture inside anywhere.


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Fish and chips, Matchbox Toys, and thoughts on being back

Sunday, 26 November

It’s taking a bit of time to get settled. More than expected.  Krish talks quite a lot about what he misses. I think I’m more adaptable. I loved being in Turin but I love being back in London too.

Robots in the window
Robots in the window

I’m enjoying the food. The market isn’t as interesting as Porta Palazzo but  I never have shopped there. We noticed a few food carts have started up in Ridley Road. There’s a Chinese food and a falafel wagon. We haven’t dared try them but I think I will.  Then one day we went for a walk past  Sutton House.  They’ve done a really interesting thing there – little toy trucks and cars have been bolted into a fence.

Hackney is the home of Matchbox Toys. It started right here! The brand was introduced by Lesney Products in 1953. I’m quite sure this is why the toys are there at Sutton House.

Cars at Sutton House
Cars at Sutton House

From here we walked over to the fish and chips shop on Well Street. It’s our favourite. I don’t like to have it too often but it’s delicious and here they make it very well, not greasy and always with a smile. We order one piece of haddock, a small chips, and five ‘cod bites,’ which are small pieces of cod fried and meant as snacks or for children. And always a ‘gherkin,’ or pickled cucumber. Sprinkle with salt and vinegar and it’s a feast between the two of us.#

Fish and chips
Fish and chips

On Friday I went for my flu shot. I wasn’t feeling so great. A little shaky, a little lightheaded, but felt quite sure it was a normal thing. I went ahead with the shot, which was fast and painless.

By Friday night, I was starting a sore throat, my pain had the expected ache, but both hands and feet were aching and crampy. This continued through Saturday so I laid low and watched Netflix. Today I’m slowly feeling better but I have the sniffles. Is it the shot and I have mini Flu, or was I getting a virus already? Who knows!

I got some fabric today to make a doll or two for Esmeralda and I have a stew simmering on the stove. I’d meant to make a Thai curry but Krish seems to have either tossed or relocated the curry paste I knew was in there when we went away. So that’s that.

And how about this from Marks & Spencer?

Plum pudding chutney
Plum pudding chutney

 

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Last full day in Torino

Tuesday, 14 November (Day Fifty-eight)

A strange feeling waking up today and knowing this was it. There was nothing on the must-do list other than packing and last-minute chocolate purchases.

And today the view of the Alps was spectacular – clearer than I’ve ever seen

View from balcony on the last full day
View from balcony on the last full day

After packing for what seemed like an eternity, off to the market to get that chocolate. Also on the list some marrons glaces, and some lemon pasta. Done and dusted.

We picked up some octopus salad and pizza to eat today and then some fritto misto as a last minute whim. We were already dreaming of a curry in London!

Wood oven at Rondini
Wood oven at Rondini
Margarita Pizza at Rondini
Margarita Pizza at Rondini
Fritto misto
Fritto misto

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Santuaria della Consalata, Pingone, Burgheria and the Mozart hotel

Friday 10 November (Day Fifty-four)

Today Krish was going on a tour to Thales Aerospace and I stayed behind.  It was a lovely clear morning.

I stopped by the pasta shop to buy some ravioli. I feel like my Italian has halted and I need more practice! However, at least I can buy what I want and make myself understood. It’s vocabulary and fluency that I need to build.

I’ve decided to stop by the lovely little toy shop in the Quadrilatero and also visit the Santuaria della Consalata, since I had loved it on my very brief visit earlier.

The toy shop was chaotic as expected from the window and I had a lovely (English) chat with the owner about ‘Made in China.’ Bottom line, the items made in China are about a quarter of the price of those made in Italy, Germany or Czech. That’s a huge difference.

I went in to the Consolata and again was struck by how beautiful it was. There are several domed areas and each is different. Little chapels, a prayer area with confessionals, altars, an organ, balconies… This is a real treasure and, although I prefer plain, humble churches, this one has really caught my imagination. I wander around as quietly as I can among the people praying, and I light a candle to my mum and dad and whisper a silent thank you to them.

I head over to the little square at IV Marzo and treat myself to an ice cream. I choose lemon and sage (can’t taste the sage), and Crema d’uova. It’s delicious. I took a photo to show how very small the cups of gelato are. I haven’t ever wished they were bigger. It’s just enough for me.

Yes, I ate it all!

Up on the large dome at the Duomo that houses the shroud, I see they are hard at work, the orange construction vests contrasting with the grey of the dome and the scaffolding.

And then through the Porta Palatina, noticing the building near to the entrance. I’ve not looked at it as closely before and it’s apparently one of the oldest in the city.

Krish gets home and we have some ravioli and relax.
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