Venice – canals and bridges

Tuesday to Thursday, 9 to 11 October, 2018

Venice is built on the water. There are many canals that come from the sea into the city. And that’s interesting too since there is a smell of the sea around you – quite comforting.

Venice has more than 150 canals dividing the city into over a hundred little islands.

Venetians are completely at home on the water. They speed about in their boats, often standing rather than sitting, hopping in and out. This reminds me of how much at home the motorbike riders are in Naples. Yes, there are streets but there are no roads. You walk about on car-free lanes and alleys, moving about across bridges that connect the various bits of ground from canal to canal.

Just another day in Venice - commuting?
Just another day in Venice – commuting?
Boats line one of the larger canals
Boats line one of the larger canals
Boats line a small canal
Boats line a small canal

The bridges are interesting and varied. As you get closer to the centre, they become crowded with people taking photos of themselves, of their friends and family, and of the scenery. This is prime selfie territory.

The bridges are simple or fancy, wood, iron or stone - no two are alike
The bridges are simple or fancy, wood, iron or stone – no two are alike, or so it seems
I definitely don't want to cross THIS bridge
I definitely don’t want to cross THIS bridge
And the tourist bridges
And the tourist bridges
Above all, the canals can be extraordinarily beautiful
Above all, the canals can be extraordinarily beautiful

When work needs to be done, there are the work boats. They pick up garbage, they repair bridges, they deliver goods, they pick up sick people, and they run water taxis. Everything is done by and on the water. If you ever wonder why prices are so high there, it’s good to remember how difficult it was to get everything and everybody everywhere!

Working boat
Working boat – delivering construction material
Garbage boat
Garbage boat
Ambulance boat
Ambulance boat
Delivery by cart
Delivery by cart
Laundry aross the canal
Laundry aross the canal

Then there are the gondolas. They are a staple of Venice and I’d imagine that many young men – and sometimes these days, women – who know this is one way to earn a living in a city that relies on tourism and boats. For 80 euros you can ride in a gondola for 40 minutes. The gondola is meant to hold four people but can stretch to six. Each one has pillows to make the journey more relaxing and luxurious, and each gondolier is happy to tell you something about the city, and to take your photo!

Gondolier waiting for business
Gondolier waiting for business

At home on the smaller canals
At home on the smaller canals
...and on the large
…and on the large
Happy to take your photo!
Happy to take your photo!
Photo shoot left, Gondolier right
Photo shoot left, Gondolier right – 

Off duty

Off duty!
Off duty!

My Venice Chapters

Venice – the streets and the people
Venice – doors and windows 
Venice – Food and shopping 
Venice – the Ghetto 
Back to Romantic Venice? 

Beginnings, endings, we just keep on keeping on

Monday 30, April 2018

Two big events happened.

One was the tree pruning in front of our house, the second was my aunt’s birthday.

When we first moved in, we were told about the enormous tree in front of the house. It’s apparently four or five hundred years old and, as such, it’s protected – it can’t be chopped down. However, its branches covered a lot of airspace – perhaps four or five houses wide, taller than our four storey house, and some branches reaching to the middle of the busy road.

Spring time growth, as viewed from the front step
Spring time growth, as viewed from the front step
Only just starting to get leafy, the tree dominated the street
Only just starting to get leafy, the tree dominated the street

The tree is protected but so are humans and buildings, and it was clear that those branches would soon be poking someone’s eye out or creeping into the rain gutters and roofs. It’s been three years and the tree had remained as is. We grew to love watching it bud, flower, and then dwindle during that time. During the summer, the leaves were so resplendent that we couldn’t see across the road any more. This was offset by this flat never becoming too warm during hot days.

Late last week, we noticed that there were some Parking Supension notices and we wondered if our tree’s time had come. A couple of days passed. On Saturday morning, we noticed three small trucks parked outside and a police line tape at the middle of the road to stop traffic on our side. Ominous.

We expected that one to two meters of each branch would be pruned. What happened felt like slaughter. The very first branch was cut back to just a stick. Every branch and twig with leaves was gone. And so it continued. At the half way point we thought perhaps they’d leave a canopy but the men climbed higher and higher and within a few hours the tree was a ‘skellington.’

Those lovely branches and leaves gone and I have to confess I felt bereft. Friends assured me it will grow back but I’m certain that hundreds of years of growth won’t be replaced in weeks and I don’t expect to see leaves this season. Then, if I do, I shall consider them gifts. It will grow back for sure but a shadow of its former self.

My new robots' view
My new robots’ view
Tree from the other side of the road - scene of slaughter
Tree from the other side of the road – scene of slaughter

No more birds, although the butchers left two nests – thank you. And thanks (no thanks) to damaging the palm trees that have been there for more than a hundred years, thanks to Loddiges.

Here’s to new beginnings! Continue reading “Beginnings, endings, we just keep on keeping on”

Brick Lane revisited

Monday, 9 April, 2018

There isn’t enough time in the world to see all of Brick Lane’s art so it will appear in dribs and drabs.

On a visit to the Cash & Carry off Brick Lane I begged some time to look at the Fanakapan anamorphic piece from the angle he suggested to me.

Fanakapan on Brick Lane
Fanakapan on Brick Lane

Down another street I found a Phlegm piece that I hadn’t seen before. This one was interesting and it’s too bad that the day was dull and the detail isn’t apparent. Each little house in the painting is done on ducting that sits like little boxes on the wall. It’s a very clever use of the architecture. I tried to imagine Phlegm, who I had actually seen painting in Toronto, figuring this out and feeling pleased with himself. It really works!

Phlegm's clever architectural-friendly piece and a close up
Phlegm’s clever architectural-friendly piece and a close up

I checked out a few other pieces today but that’s it for now. There will be more days, I hope.

Poignant piece from Ben Slow
Poignant piece from Ben Slow
Love Love Love on Hanbury Street
Love Love Love on Hanbury Street

 

 

Christmas in London’s west end – part deux

Friday, 15 December, 2017

My experiences of Christmas time in the city are diverse. I’ve spent time in London, Toronto, Budapest, Berlin, Birmingham, Lincoln, Bath, Orange County, and San Francisco – at Christmas or in the lead up to Christmas. Cities have unique ways to display their affection for the season and all of them have been magical in their own way.

I expected Germany to be go more spectacular and their markets were indeed quite lovely but surprisingly understated. On my list is a visit to the Nurnberg Christmas market, which I hear is the most famous of all German markets, dating back at least to the 17th century. I’ve been to Nurnberg and I know the setting would be perfect.

Budapest at Christmas has been the most special time for me, especially when the days are shared with Chanukah. Both festivals run side by side and intermingle.  Perhaps later this year I will go back there and travel on to Nurnberg from there.  On my list!

But I’m not here to talk about Budapest right now. London!

I wonder what New York City Christmas is like. Judging from previous visits, I suspect it’s pretty full-on and perhaps flashy. London is also full-on but in a delightfully understated way despite all the colour and light. Somehow it feels natural to see the Christmas scenes in a city that has no snow and can otherwise be shabby. And Christmas is everywhere. Turn a corner and there’s more. Overhead, along the streets on railings and windows, hanging from balconies, glimpsed through doors and windows. Christmas takes over.

I was determined to see the things I’d missed on my last visit. And, although I did cover quite a bit of ground, I know I still didn’t see it all. I did my best! Following are more photos than you may care to see…

Oxford Street lights
Oxford Street lights

Continue reading “Christmas in London’s west end – part deux”