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The slightly better version of Milan

Wednesday, 26 September, 2018 20-22C (yay!)

So yes, we went back to Milan. I’d promised myself to try again if I had a better plan and a whole lot cooler day. And those criteria were filled.

My plan – start in NoLo (the immigrant area) head down to lunch with Daniele in his proposed lunch spot Mad’son,  then on to Brera, down to Navigli and end up in Chinatown – if time I was going back to where Yayamoto was – which I believe is the old town. Plans!

(Now despite still not falling in love -or maybe not even like -with Milan, I did take far too many photos so I’ll try not to go overboard…bear with me.

A much better ride to Porta Susa – thanks to an earlier start (we were in a tearing hurry last time) and then arriving in Milan Central, now a familiar spot. We started walking towards the NoLo district, with my notes not really helping and, not too far along, decided again to separate and get on with our respective days.

I wanted to ride the historic tram number one and found the stop quite easily. It reminded me of riding in Lisbon or Budapest as it sped along. I don’t think I actually made it to the real NoLo. I wasn’t as prepared as I thought and the map didn’t really help. This, paired with the alarming way my phone battery was draining, so winged it.

Riding tram number 1 in Milan
Riding tram number 1 in Milan

I was, however, north of Loreto, and the population seemed mixed so perhaps I touched on it. The streets were not poor, though. Quite the opposite. I wandered around and needed a toilet so popped into a tabaccheria-bar. They were wonderful in there, falling over themselves to be helpful and make sure I was happy. Quite a nice experience to sit with a coffee and brioche, studying and marking the map and just generally feeling content

Streets in what I thought might be the edge of NoLo
Streets in what I thought might be the edge of NoLo
Mama Orsa? (Mama bear?)
Mama Orsa? (Mama bear?)
My very nice snack and break!
My very nice snack and break! 3 euros
Now, ravioli I can understand, but gnocchi?
Now, ravioli I can understand, but gnocchi?

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Lunch, window shopping, and to the top of NH Santo Stefano

Tuesday, 25 September, 2018 30C

I’ve been wanting to go to the little cafe I enjoy. It’s called Cianci Piola and is in the prettiest square (in my opinion) in Torino. It feels like you’re in Paris but without the high prices and the attitude!

On the way over, I walked past some remains of the Roman wall.

At Cianci Piola, there’s always a choice of appetiser, first course, second course and dessert. I stayed with an appetiser and a pasta.

On the patio at Cianci Piola
On the patio at Cianci Piola
A traditional Piemontese appetiser - tomini (a soft cheese) al verde ( a sauce made with parsley and anchovy
A traditional Piemontese appetiser – tomini (a soft cheese) al verde ( a sauce made with parsley and anchovy (each round maybe 5cm)
The primo - tajarin with sausage and eggplant
The primo – a small bowl  of tajarin (the local pasta) with sausage and eggplant
Closer to the Duomo towards Piazza Castello
Leaving Cianci to go window shopping – the Duomo and the Campanile
Affordable fashion at OVS. This year it's all about see-through skirts
Affordable fashion at OVS. This Fall it’s all about see-through skirts

On the way back I finally climbed to the top of the NH Santo Stefano. I heard that it has the history of Torino on the walls as you climb. The pleasant surprise is that there aren’t stairs but little ledges along a spiraling ramp.

The gallery was made up of several posters, tracing the history of the city and saying where remnants of the past could still be found. I made note of several. What was interesting was that sometimes that old piece of history would be deliberately incorporated into something new – such as an old granite pillar that formed the cornerstone of a newer building. It’s like a treasure map.

The galleries along each floor of the NH Hotel
The galleries along each floor of the NH Hotel
The ledged ramp all the way up to each level. Very easy to manage
The ledged ramp all the way up to each level. Very easy to manage

On the fourth floor there’s a lift to take you up to the very top, where there’s a panoramic view.

To the right the Campanile and the Palazzo Reale, to the left the Porta Palatina
To the right the Campanile and the Palazzo Reale with its Roman wall, to the left the Porta Palatina
Lovely view towards the Market square, with the Alps in the background
Lovely view towards the Market square, with the Alps in the background
And almost home - a visit to see how Mr Fijodor's whale is coming along
And almost home – a visit to see how Mr Fijodor’s whale is coming along
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Mosquitoes, Autumn in Torino, Fancy Shopping and the night lights

Wednesday, 8 November (Day Fifty-two)

A mosquito (or many) has been biting us. We’re itching and scratching and I’m swelling up in places since I sometimes have an allergic reaction. Not fun at all, Torino. Don’t your mosquitoes know their season is done? Temperatures are hovering around zero during the night. Enough!

Today was  a rainy one so we planned a circuit of the city on a few different buses.  However, in the morning we went to the market and picked up some food to last us a couple of days. I looked around for any of my Saturday rescuers but didn’t see any. I buy some smoked mozzarella, and some thin slices of veal to make Milanese. If you throw some lemon slices in the pan, they get caramelised and crunchy.  That’s what we have for lunch with a little fresh spaghetti from the local pasta shop.

Borage
Borage
Keep calm
Keep calm

Our first bus took us to an area where I really felt that autumn had arrived. I’m enjoying the smell of fallen leaves, the colours of the trees, and the different light in the sky (when there is some). The long straight streets, often lined with trees on the main thoroughfares, adds to this feeling. Winter is coming but it’s not here yet but the days are shorter – it’s dark before 6pm.
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