Norwich – The Lanes and City Centre

Tuesday, 26 April, 2022

It’s not that I haven’t been anywhere or done anything, but I’ve been lazy about putting it all together.

We planned a two-night trip to Norwich, somewhere I’ve wanted to go for some time. I didn’t know much about it and tried to research a bit before I went, but these days  I’m just as happy to be away as to actually go out and discover new things. In fact, I didn’t spend that much time just relaxing but walked every day until I couldn’t manage another step.

The journey there was uneventful. We got the train to Stratford and from there another train all the way to Norwich, about an hour forty minutes for the longer ride. Luckily, the train was fairly empty and fast.

Norwich station was quite old fashioned and small. I was happy that we came straight in without any stairs to climb before we could leave. My friend, Julie met us there and we started our walk to have lunch together.

Norwich looked small-townish, but there were some interesting old stone and brick structures. I was itching to take photos already. However, we headed for a restaurant. The food wasn’t good and I think I made the best choices of the three of us – just some squid, and a papaya salad.

The Old Post Office
The Old Post Office – I was surprised to see three Nathan Bowen art pieces, and others throughout the city



From there we walked to where we were staying on St Faith’s Lane. It wasn’t far from the station – a small curved back street with a view to the cathedral. We were staying in a studio apartment which I’d found online. I forgot to take photos but it was decent – we had a full kitchen along one side, an armchair, a bed, a little table with two chairs, and a bathroom with a big walk in shower.  It would do nicely for our two half and one full days.

We rested for a while and decided that we’d like to have fish and chips that night. One place, Grosvenor Fish and Chips in The Lanes area came highly recommended so we decided to head to The Lanes, which we could see the beginning of from where we had eaten. It seemed that if we plunged into the first sight of it and followed through, it shouldn’t be hard to find Grosvenor.

Walking through the back streets from St Faiths Lane
Walking through the back streets from St Faiths Lane. The cathedral is to our right. The houses here were very old and probably Flemish
Norwich has some pink buses
Norwich has some pink buses

This building was such a surprise. We were walking down The Lanes and it loomed ahead of us, reminding me so much of walking in Italy where huge churches dominate small squares

The Lanes are some winding, narrow laneways, often hilly and mostly cobbled. It’s a mix of tacky and interesting, the medieval and the modernised. The entire city is littered with churches and blue and other historic plaques, too many to read.  And finally we found the Grosvenor.



I loved the fact that we not only found it in the maze of lanes but it was on a street called Pottergate, which I decided to call Harry Potter Gate. Its name comes of course from being where the pottery industry once flourished. I’ve now read that there are many haunted spots in Norwich, but I hadn’t taken the time to learn about the many ghosts the city has.

We could have stopped for fish and chips then, but the queue was quite long so we decided instead to explore a bit more. This was a mistake.
Continue reading “Norwich – The Lanes and City Centre”

The days and the weeks and the months and the years go by…

Thursday, 27 April, 2021

No, it’s not really that bad. It’s not actually bad at all. I was somewhat inspired by a blog post, whose site I’ve now forgotten but I should find it, filled with all the wonderful silver linings of these past fifteen (?) months. I could seriously relate to almost all of them, and those I couldn’t relate to I’m quite sure I could substitute something of my own. Fair game!

Guilt still haunts me when I don’t blog, even though hardly anyone reads it anyway. What’s that about? Asserting my existence, emptying my mind, creating memories with words and photos, increasingly photo-derived words these days.

There’s drama outside my window, as always. Constructions big and small, the sly drug-related (?) encounters, doggie adventures, a brave daytime fox, budgies on the tree, crow attacks, the daily Ming Hai routine – we call her Ming – of opening the shutters at noon and closing them again at 10pm (Krish promises the empty air that he will go help her, even clean her little takeaway domain), and the traffic…with the advent of LTNs (low traffic neighbourhoods) schools reopening, road closures, and construction, both roads in either direction can be crammed with vehicles while we pedestrians pray for a break so that we can cross. This week I think we are back to pre-pandemic sights and sounds, just add the masks and that’s it.

And I’ve loved watching the tree slowly bud, unfurl its leaves and today it’s harder to see the shops and road opposite. Under threat of eviction, I cherish the whole thing. This is surely my last year here in this spot.


Tree phases
The tree from early April till late May

We’ve had a miserable week or two in terms of weather. Darkness, high wind, rain, hail…with only the occasional bright spell. This morning I woke up to a lovely blue sky and luminous day. I’ll take it.

Walking is still a problem for me. Friday I’m going to a physio appointment. In the past these have been useless, but I’m an optimist. I hope they have some answers, even for a temporary fix. I do walk but it’s painful, and that’s a whole other blog. I miss enjoying walking.

Meanwhile I’ve made a list of places to visit nearby with my camera. I can set aside my physical difficulties to gain some emotional perspective. It’s not just the weather that will be brighter.

Krish is still visiting Guy’s Hospital, but the schedule is now lighter and longer. Lighter is almost a play on words, since he is now having light treatment – a long journey for two very short sessions. The last time I went I had a nice little walk and rest while waiting for Krish to get his second vaccination. Longish story and includes my trip to Eataly, so how about a short blog on that? Stay tuned

Christine, who is a new friend – the one who came to Brat with me – came to Spitalfields with me. I wanted to see an exhibit of Afghan wedding dresses at The Townhouse, but we found it closed. I texted the owner, who apologised for her site being outdated, and she gave me the correct hours, so we’ll try again soon. Meanwhile, we had lunch and I took a few photos. I’m not going to lie – juggling a camera (phone or digital) and a crutch, a mask, a coat, and a shoulder purse is pretty much an Olympic event. This means either fewer steps or fewer photos, and often both.

Townhouse - antiques and gallery
Townhouse was closed. In the window a lovely cut out for the Bethnal Green Mulberry appeal (one of the very few wins for the area)

Fournier Street
Fournier Street with the Ten Bells at the corner. On the side I’m standing is Christ Church. I love the old shop signs over the new shop frontages
My snack lunch at Spitalfields Market
We had snacks at Spitalfields Market. I had eggplant – too generous for a side, and soup dumplings which had heavy-crusted bottoms. Too much for lunch so I ate half of each box and brought the rest home
Dan Kitchener's Spitalfields Geisha
After swiftly passing one of Dan Kitchener’s geishas on Commercial Street by bus many times, I managed to get a photo while waiting for my bus home

Vaccinated!

Monday, 1st February, 2021

Today was historic for me. I had my first Covid vaccination. I’ll confess I hadn’t wanted to be one of the first in line for it. It feels too new and untested, but I also knew deep down that I would probably be just fine with doing it when invited. My invitation came by text on Tuesday, I phoned my doctor’s office on Wednesday morning and they offered me today (Monday) at 12:10pm. I was on!

If you’re still waiting and want to know what it’s like…Pictorial essay follows!

Bocking Street Vaccine Centre
I had the choice of two vaccination centres. I chose Bocking Street, which is at the back of Mare Street Market. The building didn’t inspire much
Queue for vaccines
There was a short queue waiting to get in. We were met at the door and asked the usual health questions and had our temperature taken and hands sanitised. We then went through a second check. I asked if Krish could get a vaccine as my carer and was told to try when I reached the window. They were very nice, but said ‘not today’
Waiting room
Inside the centre, I got a seat among others with plexiglass between each one. I had an entry ticket number that they jokingly referred to as my raffle ticket. Krish was allowed in with me all the way
Vaccination Centre Cleaner
There was one person doing cleaning at the centre. She diligently cleaned every chair, in every area after each person, seldom resting. Hats off to her!
Cleaning
Cleaning
Cleaning
Cleaning
Waiting room, Vaccination Centre
We waited on our chairs, plastic shields between each one

So what was it like, getting the vaccine? I was sent into the main room which had many cubicles. They told me walk straight ahead where I saw a doctor waiting, masked. His badge read ‘Declan’ and he told me his name, which I sadly forget.

Declan explained to me about the vaccine and asked me a few questions. He then asked me if I had any questions of my own. I told him that, despite everything, I always worried somewhat about having an allergic reaction and he reassured me that if I had never had one, it was extremely unlikely. He explained things as if he were doing it for the first time – simply and warmly. I appreciated that. He prepared the syringe and stood beside me and I waited for the ‘sharp, short pain’ he promised. Then he said ‘OK, it’s done.’ I was actually shocked. I hadn’t felt anything at all and thought I hadn’t had it yet. I told him so and he said ‘It’s not about skill. It’s hit and miss if I hit a pain receptor spot.’ I thanked him and headed off for the assessment waiting room, where I would wait fifteen minutes.

Post vaccination waiting area
After getting our vaccine, we waited again for fifteen minutes to make sure we were well enough to leave. Note the cleaner again (on the right)
Exit from the Vaccination Centre
Exit from the Vaccination Centre
Mare Street at King Edwards Road
Mare Street at King Edwards Road

Continue reading “Vaccinated!”

Canary Wharf – our Toronto fix

 Saturday, 5th September, 2020

In ‘normal’ times every now and again we would go to Canary Wharf to get our Toronto fix. It has that Toronto look and no wonder. Its earliest buildings were built by the Canadian company Olympia & York. There are even street names and apartment and shopping complex with Canadian influences. Everything is very modern and there’s even an underground shopping concourse. But we haven’t been for a very long time.

We had an idea that the weekends would be very quiet in the area and we’d be able to walk around and look at the river. And so we jumped on the 277 bus that takes us from Hackney Town Hall all the way to Canary Wharf DLR station.

Victoria Park Village from the bus
Victoria Park Village from the bus. A more detailed look is on my Must Walk list

On the way, we pass through Victoria Park Village, Victoria Park itself, and Mile End. Victoria Park was my closest childhood park. I loved the playground there and also the pond. My grandfather would take me fishing at that pond. We’d buy maggots and mealworms in a little shop along the Roman Road and off we’d go. On the way down to the docks (where Canary Wharf is built) we pass by my old childhood home of (the now demolished) Lessada Street, just off Roman Road, and then down under the railway bridge where where the First Flying Bomb fell on London on 13 June 1944. It’s also where I saw a strange and scary site when I was about three years old.

I was walking with my dad – I loved those walks – and saw a fire under the bridge. There was a man and a motorcycle lying there in the hollow and they were alight. I asked my dad about it and he told me it was a guy (for Guy Fawkes Day) and hurried me on. When I was 14, I told my mum what I remembered and that I was sure it was a motorcycle fatality. She looked a little white and then confirmed it. She told me that my dad had hoped I would forget and never to tell me. He had been very shaken. She then asked me never to tell him that I knew. I kept my promise.

I didn’t take photos after Victoria Park. Photos from the bus are never very satisfying but it does mean there’s a gap.

Further down the road, we ride along Burdett Road. Here I have memories of visiting my great aunts – my mum’s mum’s sisters – in their tall, grand houses, or so they seemed in those days. And I remember the little Jewish grocer where they had barrels of olives, herring, pickled cucumbers – with a name something like Vlit Vlosh…who knows. And on down to Poplar, past the canal, and you see the river bank.

Except today there were dozens of people. At our stop, we noticed the same. Lots of people. We’d be wrong in our guess that it would be dead down there. They obviously all had the same idea that we had, to be somewhere ‘quiet.’ Oh well, nothing to do but carry on and see whatever we could.

The main financial district of London is in The City, the original square mile. Canary Wharf is the secondary business district. It’s on the Isle of Dogs and is named after one of the quays of this dockland area, No. 32 berth, where fruit was unloaded from the Canary Islands. And that’s why it’s called the Isle of Dogs. The Canary islands gets its name from the large dogs found there by the Spanish (Canarias from Canine).  Canary Wharf is just one piece of the Docklands area  and it has many tall buildings, including what was once the tallest (now third tallest) in the UK, One Canada Square, with its iconic pointed roof. Docklands was once just that, a large area of docks on the River Thames. As a child, I learned it was an area that was to be avoided, and also the place where the majority of bombs were aimed during the second world war. East India Docks, West India Docks – dangerous and dirty or not, it all sounded very exotic to me.

These once dangerous, dirty docks are now sparkling and modern roads, full of gleaming office towers and quayside cocktail bars. For years it was like a secret part of London known only to bankers and the like, but based on the number of people we saw here, I’d say the secret is out.

Canary Wharf DLR station
Canary Wharf DLR station
Quayside
Quayside


And sometimes you get reminders you are on the Thames
And sometimes you get reminders you are on the Thames





Wandering around the Canary Wharf jungle!
Wandering around the Canary Wharf jungle!

Amidst the towers, an oasis of green

Amidst the towers, an oasis of green, Jubilee Park

Crossing the river here we found a little food truck area
Crossing the South Dock bridge here we found a little food truck area
From over here, we could see the O2 building
From over here, we could see the O2 Arena
In the underground concourse on our way to Waitrose
In the underground concourse on our way to Waitrose. Doesn’t it look like Toronto?

The floors are filled with tiles showing the history of the area
The floors are filled with tiles showing the history of the area

We’d outstayed our two window for getting home again, so home we came. Meanwhile, I found a good interactive map of the Canary Wharf area at https://canarywharfmap.com/ if you’d like to have an overview.

Sheltering in Place – Won’t you be my neighbour?

Tuesday, 7 April, 2020

I’m losing track of numbers but seems like 29 days of #shelteringinplace for me now. At least this is the 29th day. and it’s just beginning.

I’ve started thinking about neighbours. Each day I spend some time looking out of the kitchen but mostly living room windows. I’m trying not to be annoyed at how many people I see in their cars, walking, running…the buses are mostly empty, with one or two passengers…there are trains passing in the back of the house but I can’t see how many are riding.

I don’t know any of the people but I do see the same faces sometimes. Krish spends more time looking out from the kitchen and he knows some of them by sight and he likes to tell me when ‘umbrella man’ shows up each day. There’s a man who shepherds his three children across the road every day, and they’ve been on bikes before, but are on foot now.

One day, as I stood at the living room window, I saw someone stop to look at my sign, and then at me, then wave. I waved back. Suddenly, I felt connected. Later Krish told me that it was ‘Nick,’ one of the community garden planters who we’d chatted to on that day. He lives some doors away and yet we don’t really know him or his wife, Nicola. I always liked that – Nick and Nicola.

This house is quiet. Neil downstairs may be away but he’s as silent or absent as ever. I’ve never spoken more than a few words to him – good morning, how are you doing, what great weather… The ground floor was being renovated for weeks before all this started but there are still no tenants. There are housemates in the lower level place but they don’t talk. The other day, as I sat on the ledge to get some air, they came out with rubbish but they didn’t acknowledge me.

This morning I was thinking about how different this all is from my childhood days. We always knew our neighbours. Their faces and attempted names came to me this morning. No names from my early childhood but snippets of memories of playing hopscotch and kiss-chase. My grandmother – nana – knew some neighbours. One Friday she took me to a prefab where friends were lighting candles. We’d never done that and I was fascinated.

Me and Blackie
I’m not a fan of dogs but this one was my neighbour in East London. His name was Blackie, and it’s the only neighbour name I remember

I remember no one from our days after leaving the east end for Essex, except my ‘boyfriend,’ Steven, whose dad danced with me the way my dad did – where I stood on his shoes and he moved his feet.

Margaret and I in Langholm
A heady summer with Margaret in Langholm, Dumfriesshire. She was a year older and a foot taller than I was

I remember much more from our time in Dulwich, where I had actual neighour friends – Brenda Miller, who was chubby and who had her period at age 9, rendering her not such friend material – they called us Bread and Jam. Margaret whose mother Peggy was from Scotland – and with whom I went on holiday to Langholm in Dumfriesshiere. There were the Butcher boys who were strapping and ate raw Spanish onions instead of apples. Christine who helped me steal school supplies. Jackie, my best friend, until she started dating the boy I had a crush on – she had six brothers and sisters, a crazy full household of black-haired light-eyed Irish kids.

Cousins
In the front, me with Ruth, Netta, David, and June Three of us are left

And my cousins, not quite neighbours until my cousins, Terry and Netta, and later Tina, moved to where we lived in Dulwich. All my cousins were my constant companions when they were around, staying overnight with them, and they with us, and always knowing we could pick up again any time.

Growing up in the East End, you were likely to be known, even by those who you didn’t know. When I returned to London from Toronto for a holiday and my grandmother, nan, and cousins still lived at Mile End, I ventured into a neighbourhood shop. The man behind the counter looked at me and said ‘You’re one of Lottie’s, aren’t you?’ He meant my nan, Charlotte or Lottie. I asked how he knew, and he tapped his nose. He knew who I was by looking at me. Could that happen today?

Cousins at the seaside
Striking a pose with Netta, June and Ruth

In Canada, my parents always had friends as neighours. Jean and Jock from Scotland, Bob and Mary, Ellie and Fred – all from Liverpool. Another Jean, Gunn, whose husband was a filmmaker until he died suddenly. Marilyn, a ballsy blonde, who fed her dog sweets but forbade them to her children. Many more.

When Robin was growing up, I had neighbours in Toronto. My closest friend, Denise, who in turn had a great collection of neighbours who practically lived in each other’s houses, and who I could borrow as my neighbours whenever I wanted. And another neighbour, Jan, who lived in the next street over. She had a huge back garden and three girls. I was there when the fourth child, a boy, was born. I never had to be alone.

Denise and I
With Denise one Halloween. We did holidays right!

Times really changed. No more knowing your neighbours. There are quick exchanges of words from time to time. No one has sparked my interest enough to invite in for tea or hope they might do the same. Well not no one. And yet that’s my dream. Watching the Dick Van Dyke show when I was young, my eyes would light up when Mary’s neighbour, Milly, would pop in unannounced to the kitchen door and make herself immediately at home. Where was my Milly? Where is my Milly? Continue reading “Sheltering in Place – Won’t you be my neighbour?”