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Visitors – Shoreditch, Skygarden, Marylebone…and…

Friday, 4 May, 2018

My friend, Virginia (Jinni), and her husband Dave are visiting London. This means a lot of guiding and walking.  Most of what I see is familiar but I do sometimes spot something new and that’s always a nice suprise!

On Monday, I met them for a local walk around for groceries. Instead of the fish and chip dinner I thought we might have we went to a pasta place close to their hotel. To my mind, the Italians tend to undercook ravioli. At least, I know that it’s supposed to be al dente and that’s fine but I think I prefer my ravioli and pasta a bit more tender than that. Doesn’t have to be soft but … yes, tender. It’s made me more determined to make a little of my own. After making it with a machine and with a rolling pin, I say the machine wins for the thinner, more tender, dough.

We started our walk near Arnold Circus (my usual route). The middle garden area was looking like Spring was taking hold. A nice oasis in busy Shoreditch.

Arnold Circus gazebo
Arnold Circus gazebo

We aren’t wimps but let’s say we are getting older. We stopped in The London Tea Exchange on Brick Lane. The server comes to your table and asks what you’re looking for and then choose a few options for you to smell and consider.  I chose the Green tea with Rose. It was very fragrant and refreshing. I was already starting to feel the warmer weather after the past several wet and cold ones. Five pounds well spent? Hmmm.

Rose green tea
Rose green tea at the Tea Exchange
Dave and Jin spotted this building name - I had never noticed it!
Dave and Jin spotted this building name – I had never noticed it!

I had booked three spaces at Ottolenghi so we arrived and ordered our dinner.  The prices have gone up – no surprise – my cold main and two salads was £18.80. I enjoyed it but thought I might have got the end of the roast since it wasn’t as rare as it used to be. Still, I made good choices – with Roasted butternut squash with nigella yoghurt, grilled spring onion and green chilli, Green beans, red endive with miso tahini and toasted sesame, and the fillet of beef.

Lunch at Ottolenghi
Lunch at Ottolenghi

I had been trying for over a week to get some spaces at Skygarden. It was definitely frustrating me. On Monday morning I was ready to grab spots for Tuesday and stupidly was waiting for something to show up while still on the April calendar. When I figured out what I was doing wrong, it was too late, no spots. Still, I knew that cancellation spots turned up if you keep checking and to my surprise as we left Ottolenghi, five spots showed for 3pm. I quickly selected three spots and prayed I’d been on time. I was! It was 2:20pm.

Every time I go to Skygarden now I think I don’t need to come back, but there I was and, despite the dull sky, I took a few photos for posterity!

The Tower,Tower Bridge, and City Hall
The Tower, Tower Bridge, and City Hall
The Shard and London Bridge Hospital
The Shard and London Bridge Hospital
Looking west with St Pauls, and the Eye around the bend in the river
Looking west with St Pauls 

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Dim Sum adventures

Wednesday, 18 April, 2018

A return visit for dim sum at Shikumen was in store. We did a fair amount of walking and it was hot! Shikumen is having a four for £10 lunch. We’ll go back and try four different ones before the promotion ends.

A beautifully crafted vegetable dumpling
A beautifully crafted vegetable dumpling
The foru for £10 dim sum lunch. Missing are the chicken gyoza
The four for £10 dim sum lunch. Missing are the chicken gyoza

I wanted to check out the new bar that overlooks the city so we took the lift up to the fourteenth floor but were foiled. It goes as far as floor 13 and then you see a notice: You have to come up from the ground floor and be escorted. Are they keeping the riffraff out? I’m coming back at night when it’s open, to have a silly cocktail and take photos before the light fades.

A bit more walking in the heat followed. I wished I had on my summer clothes, which are packed away from last year.

At the south side of Bethnal Green Road time stands still
At the south side of Bethnal Green Road time stands still
Spotted off the Bethnal Green Road
Spotted off the Bethnal Green Road

Home to a nice cool shower!

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Nostalgia, Islington, Victoria Park…cheese

Monday, 16 April, 2018

Today, forty-five years ago (Yes! I mean Noooooo!) I was married. It was a very blustery, cool Toronto day.

Me in my carefully chosen wedding outfit
Me in my carefully chosen wedding outfit, 1973

There were two friends on my side, and two on John’s, at the city hall ceremony. I don’t want to say too much about it – the wedding or the dinner afterwards, or the party we threw for our friends, or the aftermath – but I do think about it every year and go over the day and the years that followed.

Back to the present.

We were waiting for Spring and then suddenly it arrived

I’m listless. I want to do something, go somewhere, although I’m unsure what or where. Spring is happening but oh so slowly. My legs hurt. I’m tired. That’s my mood. Right. There.

We did have a nice time out on Friday. We walked along Upper Street and discovered a plaque for Kate Greenaway. To my surprise I remembered that name from my mum’s books of children’s fashion and from other childhood books. She had an instantly recognisable style and it was nice to think she would have walked those same streets.

Upper Street, St Mary's Church
Upper Street, St Mary’s Church

We walked along Chapel Market as it wound down and at the pub on the corner of Penton Street I discovered a board that was quite funny.

So I investigated. The pub is called The Joker and is a nod to Islington’s most famous resident, Joseph Grimaldi. Grimaldi was a clown – the founder of the modern day clown, in fact. He was certainly the most popular entertainer of his time (1778-1837). The pub has many photos and memorabilia of clowns and also a huge (ten-foot wide) clock (THE clock from Oasis’ ‘Be Here Now’ tour). We didn’t go in but it’s now on my list.

A quick and interesting ride on the 205 bus and we ended up in Brick Lane to have a lunch at Meraz, and to buy some ghee.

The new Muretz art on Hanbury Street
The new Muretz art on Hanbury Street

My friend Alistair’s wife Julie is Canadian. She grew up in Montreal. I find her fascinating. She’s like a bright and flitting creature with good stories and a strong sense of herself.  She arrived in London and wanted to spend an afternoon with me at Victoria Park. I didn’t realise I’d be going back there for soon but the last time I went it was dull and grey and cold. On Saturday it was warm and vibrant. We visited “Uncle Tom’s Cabin” and the mural on The Morpeth Pub, then went to have a picnic.

Sitting near the duck pond, I think about my grandfather fishing in that water, putting mealworms and maggots on his hook, and me feeding the ducks with bits of bread. I wouldn’t say it feels like yesterday but I do close my eyes and imagine us there.

Everybody was enjoying the duck pond and the Pavilion Cafe
Everybody was enjoying the duck pond and the Pavilion Cafe

I want to go visit Julie in her Sussex home. Stay tuned.

And I ate the French cheese – not too impressed, I think I left it a week too long. The other cheeses continue to mature, although after piercing the guessed-at blue one I haven’t noticed any new mould growth so we shall see.

The French cheese. It never ran and I couldn't eat that rind, having seen it form
The French cheese. It never ran and I couldn’t eat that rind, having seen it form
Almost ready to eat
Almost ready to eat

 

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Hobbling into Spring, a lovely new mural, and Victoria Park

Friday, 23 March, 2018

Somehow I missed the Spring Equinox. So no photos from that day, sadly. This Spring in London reminds me more of a Toronto Spring – warm days  mixed with very cold, even snowy, days. A yoyo time and I’m so so ready for the day I can throw off the winter coat and boots.

My cheeses are worrying me. Yes, Philip and Keith both said leave them alone and they’ll be fine. They are now sitting in my fridge inside a cardboard box, on a trivet, with a cup of water to keep the humidity up. They are all covered in a grey fur (apparently normal) I have mixed up the blue and the white – was so careful to keep the labels close and then in the transfer got not-surprisingly confused. Now no idea which is which. The French cheese wouldn’t come out of the mould but when Philip suggested I turn it upside and let it fall out on its own, it did – almost immediately, ripping the bottom off. Now we just have to wait and see how it ends up!

My cheeses maturing - before the French one ripped
My cheeses maturing – before the French one (bottom left) ripped

On Wednesday I went to Leigh on Sea to see my aunt Ruth.  We ate our usual fish and chips and talked about family. It was a pleasant and mild day – the sun shone and all was right with the world.  I have yet to fix a date to see my other aunt, Kay – who is also my cousin, but that confuses everyone. My mum and dad officially met when mum’s cousin Kay married Dad’s older brother Ed. Couldn’t be easier but everyone looks stunned and mutters things like incest…um, no!

My aunt's suburban street and her usual seat
My aunt’s suburban street and her usual seat

Thursday, it was cooler again and quite grey. I put the finishing touches on another doll and I decided to take the bus to see a new mural that had been commissioned for the centenary of the vote for some UK women. But first, back to Green Papaya where I sat quietly and contemplated my life or my navel or perhaps the dish in front of me. My decision was that I prefer the Toronto version, which has the sauce served separately and uses a different type of pork – even a choice of grilled meats. However, these little breaks in my week are very important to me and it’s the best thing to eat in this neighbourhood!

Grilled belly pork at Green Papaya
Grilled belly pork at Green Papaya

The bus to Old Ford Road goes through Victoria Park, where I played as a child. There are a lot of memories but not many clear facts about this area. I don’t recall exploring as a child but instead treading the same streets many many times on the way to the market, to nursery school, to the sweet shop, going to the park, visiting my Aunt Kay’s dress factory (a treasure trove!) outside playing on the pavement, and walking down towards my maternal grandmother, Charlotte’s (Lottie’s) house (perhaps a mile away).

Today I was headed to see a mural, though. It’s on the Old Ford Road which runs adjacent to the park. A long time ago, as a child, my mother had a friend on this street. She lived in one of the tall houses, perhaps occupying one or two of the floors. She had a daughter my age and that daughter introduced me to the ‘interesting’ game of ‘doctor.’ The details are shameful and I hope no permanent damage was done! Other people’s children seemed far more experienced in such things. Always the ‘good girl,’ I’d follow along and wonder why. I still do.

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Snow in London, Bump Buddies, and a great meal at Hawksmoor

Saturday, 3 March, 2018

London has a very moderate climate. In the summer there may be a short burst of heat that’s surprising and stifling. There’s no air conditioning, indoors is as oppressive as outside, and things seem a bit surreal. The winters are mild, rarely reaching zero, and a few flakes of snow are magical, even if they don’t amount to anything.

For a few years the papers have promised ‘the worst winter ever’ – more empty promises. However, this Wednesday I woke up to a real blanket of snow. They had been calling it the Beast from the East. Beast? Well, it was definitely more than a few flakes but by Toronto standards this was slightly more than kittenish. However, the snow did keep falling, traffic was barely moving, trains didn’t run, airports were closed or chaotic – it was a Snow Day in London.

The Canadians in UK and London on Facebook had a great time making fun of the British, although they did appreciate that this country has nothing in place to deal with what would be considered quite ordinary in Canada.

 

 

It was all a good bit of fun.

I started my Bump Buddies mentor course on that first Snow Day. It was crazy getting to the place. The classroom was freezing and many of the attendees brought their children, whose schools were closed. The course is OK. Those two days we did soft subjects – Listening and Communications Skills, and Choices and Values. We start at 10am and work till noon, at which time lunch arrives. After lunch we work again until 2:30pm and then go home.

Most Londoners weren't dressed for the weather
Most Londoners weren’t dressed for the weather
Our healthy vegetarian lunch at Bump Buddies training
Our healthy vegetarian lunch at Bump Buddies training

On Wednesday night I had reserved a table at Hawksmoor Spitalfields. It was a bitter evening and, after a day at the training, I was tempted to call it off. But we bundled up and carried on.

I’ve wanted to eat there for some time but the prices are high and I’m not really into steak houses. However, Hawksmoor was having a soft launch period after renovating – Fifty percent off and I was lucky to get in under the wire. We had great service and the food was fantastic.

We chose three starters – Potted beef & bacon with Yorkshires & onion gravy, Bone marrow with onions, and Ash-baked beetroot with pickled fennel, horseradish & hazelnuts. I absolutely loved the potted beef option and could have this by itself for lunch easily! The marrow was very nice with the onions being a nice sweet contrast to the savoury, creamy marrow. The beetroot was lovely, so refreshing and like the one I’d had at Blacklock last year.

Starters at Hawksmoor
Starters at Hawksmoor – I’d go back at full price

We shared one main – Herb fed chicken – it was a lovely balance of flavours but I thought it a tiny bit dry. Still delicious, though. We also got sides – Dripping fries, Buttered English greens, and the Doddington Caesar salad. The fries were a nod to Krish. they were delicious but not special and not many of them. The greens were perfectly cooked. The salad was much bigger than I had expected and I was feeling very full but I did enjoy the presentation and taste very much.

Yes, we were almost bursting but did share a Burnt Butter ice cream scoop. This was a fantastic choice – not too much of it, not too sweet and intensely buttery and delicious. I couldn’t fault anything I ate. Beautiful!

On Shoreditch High Street
On Shoreditch High Street