A little bit more about Ridley Road Market

Thursday, 8 March, 2018

Ridley Road Market is the largest market in my area of Hackney, I assume in all of Hackney. It dates back to the 1880s. Originally, it was on the (Kingsland) High Street. But when they started to run trams along that road (hard to imagine now) it moved around the corner to Ridley Road. My family remembers when it was a very Jewish market. In the 60s it became a Caribbean market, then a Turkish and Greek market after the 70s. Today it’s an Afro-Caribbean market again. Slowly as the new and expensive developments have sprung up and the upwardly mobile people are beginning to take over, the ‘English’ traders are creeping back in, with a few fancier food trucks along the market route. One day it may either vanish or become more trendy, like Broadway Market.

It’s still a rag tag and messy/shabby market these days, though. The smells from the African and Caribbean hole in the wall market shops aren’t familiar or pleasant to me but they must all get trade since the same ones are always there. At the top of the market there are reminders of the old East End, the barrow boys yelling their wares if you’re lucky enough to hear them. However, in years gone by it would have been much noisier with everyone shouting their wares and bantering. And I understand that it was normal for the stall keepers to wear a shirt, tie and a hat. I would like to have seen that.

I love markets but I don’t buy much here.  I’m not a clean freak but it feels too dirty. The price of fruit is very low but it often looks unappealing or is sold in large bowls for £1 – too much to eat. I have bought mangoes (two for a pound), and eggs from the egg man. I pass by the butchers selling odd bits of animal, the too-smelly fish stalls, the hardware places with cheap pots and pans, the two or three stalls selling only incense – all too heavily jasmine-based for me. I know people who shop there very successfully. Maybe one day I will try to buy more and see how I do.

Short trip to Westfield

Monday, 21 January, 2018

Yesterday, after two failed attempts, I made it to Westfield – I had three goals. To try on some shoes on sale at the Ecco store (they’re on sale online but I don’t know my size) to buy some photo albums at the WHSmith sale, and to pick up some dumplings for dim sum.

I’m not a fan of shopping malls. Westfield has two big ones – the first was at Shepherds Bush, the second at Stratford – on opposite ends of London.

Stuff about Westfield – just a bit at least – at the bottom of my blog!

Walking from the bus towards one of the station entrances. This is one of two stations in my neighbourhood, Hackney Central
Hackney Central entrance
A narrow slope takes you up to the station. It can get pretty crowded at rush hour
Refreshment Stand, Hackney Central
There’s a little refreshment stand near the Station Hall. Now that a chain coffee place has opened just on the street outside, I’ve wondered if business has sufered. The sign reminds people it’s cheaper here!

Hackney Central is an Overground station. It used to be called The North London Line and it was a fast but nasty train route across North London from east to West. Then London Transport took it over and cleaned it up. It changed from dirty and rundown to clean and modern. It’s now a pleasure to use. My main uses are from here to Stratford, or in the other direction to Camden, and beyond.

Hackney Central station hall
In the station hall. There are just two platforms, for trains running east or west across north London
Hackney Central platform
The trains run every ten minutes this time of day and I had nine minutes to wait. I’m the queen of missing trains and buses

Open carriages on the Overground I first saw this open carriage concept in Spain many years ago. It finally arrived in London in 2009 with the Overground, and now I see it everywhere Continue reading “Short trip to Westfield”

A walk to Tesco – pictorial essay

Monday, 15 January, 2018

Today I woke up to a very cold, windy and wet day. The skies are dark and I’m glad I have nowhere special to go. I’ve decided to document my neighbourhood a bit by taking a walk in different directions and doing a pictorial essay.

I’m planning several so if this is not your thing, move along!

My first walk was to the Tesco supermarket yesterday and nothing could be more routine than that. Explanations in the captions under each photo.

Ground level view
Leaving the house – my window view at ground level
Curved street
Walking towards Hackney Central on my street. I love that it’s curved – somehow I always find that shape romantic
Decorated tree
This house on my street always has its tree decorated. Gives me a smile every time
Railway bridge
Towards the railway bridge. There’s another just around the corner – the two lines are close
Arches
Under the railway bridge are the ‘arches.’ with space at a premium, many businesses start up here. Sometimes they’re rough, like these body shops but often they are trendy (more of those another time)
Caribbean cuisine
A lot of Caribbean cooking in these parts. This the spot I can pick up plantain – yum!
Pembury Tavern
There’s a five point junction at the top of the street. In the centre is the refurbished 19th century Pembury Tavern. You can also some of the many buses
Shops Amhurst Road
On the other side of my street, the disappointing selection of shops, including the worst Chinese food anywhere, a burger (from frozen) joint, and a sushi place run by not-Japanese people
Gentrification
Hackney Central is slowly gentrifying. Soon everything will look like this
Old Pembury
As a contrast – on the left an old estate building and on the right an old building that has been reclad

Continue reading “A walk to Tesco – pictorial essay”

Culinary Distractions – Shikumen and Mercato Metropolitano

Sunday, 14 January, 2018

Here I sit on yet another cold, grey morning after a couple of frivolous Netflix half hours. It seems to me that this is the greyest January I can remember in London. Krish says it’s always like this. Maybe I have the February blahs a little early.

Then there are culinary distractions!

The first was Shikumen and our third visit to this Aldgate location. We don’t usually go to expensive restaurants, preferring hole in the wall discoveries, hidden gems where only locals visit. Then we saw that a new Aldgate location of the small chain, Shikumen, was opening in the Dorsett Hotel near the tube station. For the first month they were offering 50% off all food if you reserved a table. Great opportunity! We seized it.

We visited Shikumen twice that month. The food was expertly cooked, the space was clean and modern, and the service was attentive and friendly. It was a no-brainer. However, the prices are high and we’re used to a cosy plate in Toronto’s Chinatown, so the discount is a must.

Just before Christmas Shikumen offered 50% off gift certificates so we ordered two and waited for the new year.

Our first visit was for dinner last week. I completely surprised myself by walking the 5.5km all the way along Mare Street, Cambridge Heath Road and Whitechapel Road to Aldgate. I was very happy to see the Dorsett in view at the end of the route.

Whitechapel sign
Whitechapel is changing from a rundown East End neighbourhood to one that is modern and corporate
View from Shikumen
The view from Shikumen shows that Aldgate too is definitely 21st century

Continue reading “Culinary Distractions – Shikumen and Mercato Metropolitano”

Winter Solstice at Newington Green

Thursday, 21 December, 2017

Today was the Winter Solstice, shortest day of the year. They are indeed short days now, the sun rising around 8 and setting before 4pm

Every Solstice and Equinox for many years I’ve taken part in a Flickr photo group called Day in the Life of. It’s now called Another Day in the Life of. At any rate, I rarely miss it even if my photos of the day are all taken inside my flat. Trivia: The tag we have to use – DILO – is the source of amusement to my friends. Dilo, guys – there is no extra D in there.

I thought I’d share the photos of the time I spent in Newington Green, meeting my friend, Juliet. Let’s make it a photo essay but read to the end where I’ll put a little bit about the fascinating history of the area, first mentioned in the Doomsday book of 1086.

Appraching from Mildmay
Reflections in a pub window

Newington Green Fruit and Vegetables

Continue reading “Winter Solstice at Newington Green”