A walk to Cornhill – 1: Elizabeth Line and Austin Friars

Monday, 12 July, 2021

Krish has been walking from Liverpool Street Station to Guy’s Hospital three times a week for a while now. He gets excited about what he sees along the way. As always, The City feels infinitely explorable. How else can you walk around the streets so often and still discover something new and interesting. He discovered some City boundary bollards and the church of St Michael’s Cornhill. The last time he’d walked by, he’d seen that there was a choral evensong on Mondays and asked if I wanted to go. Sure!

So off we went. Krish had been at the hospital in the morning, came home for his lunch by 2pm, and by 4:30pm we were off again retracing his earlier footsteps.

I had a very hard time choosing which photos to show you since it felt like every step of the way there was something that was interesting, eye-catching, and almost certainly with a fascinating back story, and so there are a lot of photos.

In fact, I took so many photos and found so many interesting things along the way, I’m dividing my walk into two blogs. It may even become three, since next week I hope to go back to Cornhill to look at a couple of other things, and may even make it to the Royal Exchange. It will be hot so you just never know how long this will take and when and if this will all happen. Suspense!

This, then, is the first blog where I’ll talk about the Elizabeth Line and about Austin Friars.

Liverpool Street Station has had a metamorphosis while I’ve been pandemicking (did I just coin a word, and is it any coincidence that if you take the middle bit of it out you get ‘panicking’?). The north end of the station (I’m terrible with compass locations, but bear with me) which was the more modern Broadgate Circle, has now become a larger Broadgate area with new shops and restaurants. There’s a bank of escalators now that leads to this complex – I walked along here the day I helped a lady find her bus. That day I’d planned to look around and find some lunch but helping her foiled that plan. And now I see that I need to visit again and take photos and discover what might be here. Sometimes the infinity I’ve mentioned above weighs on me, but then it’s exciting to think that I’m actually unlikely to run out things to look at and see, especially if things keep changing.






Why the redevelopment? Well, it’s  because of the new Elizabeth Line, which is expected to open in the first half of 2022. The new line is ambitious at 69 miles long and will shorten the journey and reduce connections for anyone travelling to or from Heathrow Airport.



Nine new Elizabeth line stations are being delivered as part of the Crossrail programme – Paddington, Bond Street, Tottenham Court Road, Farringdon, Liverpool Street, Whitechapel, Canary Wharf, Custom House and Woolwich.

For me, the savings in time isn’t that major with 50 minutes versus an average hour and ten minutes from Liverpool Street, but it’s good that there are no changes. I’m definitely looking forward to seeing it finished and, although I’m not keen on the tube, having my first ride.

But enough of the rail services – the walk has only just begun. Here’s a YouTube video for you, though:



Krish told me he’d found a secret alleyway. He’d noticed it and then one day decided to walk down it to see where it led. I didn’t take a photo before going down, since I had no idea what I’d find once there. I did find it online, though – with apologies to the original photographer.

Entrance to Austin Friars Passage
If you aren’t paying attention, it’s easy to miss this entrance to Austin Friars Passage, Krish’s secret alley. Credit Iansvisits for this photo. He writes a lot about this alley too

The secret alleyway he’d discovered was Austin Friars Passage. He’d unlocked an area that has such a rich history, it’s hard to know where to begin, so I’ll take a simple approach. In this area there was once a priory for some Augustinian monks. Austin is just a short form of Augustinian – who knew! It was probably founded in the 1260s and dissolved in November 1538.  It covered an area of about 5.5 acres consisting of a church at the centre , with a complex of buildings behind it providing accommodation, refreshment and study space for friars and visiting students. There were also gardens where the friars grew vegetables, fruit and medicinal herbs.

The sign here says 1853 but the wall is much older
The sign, a boundary marker for All Hallows Wall, on this old bulging wall says 1853 but there’s   another parish marker dating from 1715 – from the since-demolished church of St Peter le Poer. I missed photographing the older sign

Old and new signs in Austin Friars Passage
Old and new signs at the far end of Austin Friars Passage. Pater & Co was mostly likely stockbrokers. closed in 1923. You can clearly see the Victorian tiling that lines this narrow passage

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Afghan Dresses and Graffiti at Brick Lane

Weds, 2 June, 2021

I really am getting out more. I’m more relaxed about how much my knee hurts while I’m out there and how much it will hurt later! That doesn’t mean I’m actually relaxed, but compared to a month ago, yes. As well, the rain and very dreary weather has pretty much eased up. We even have a sort of intermittent heatwave (which is actually a paradox). Standard moan – yeah, the flipping mask, the crutch, the bag or two, the camera, the phone, the juggling of the whole damned thing makes walking a challenge, and taking photos even more so. I take my photos in a hurry, I see things I just know stopping for to do my juggling act won’t cut it…I think to myself, if only I could just take these photos with my eyes, with my voice…and, you know what, there probably is an easier way and perhaps I need to explore that – or at least figure out why my Huawei phone doesn’t allow me to voice-activate with ‘Smile’ or ‘Cheese’ like my LG phone did. And that’s that! Krish bought me a Gimble, look it up. I know there are great opportunities with it, but I fret about how to use it and how to hold it and how to carry it around. Hmm.

I’d love to get out of my comfort zone a bit with these journeys, see somewhere or something new. At the same time, this is what I can manage, so accept the same old territory. I really do see new things, or old things with new eyes. It helps. For now, at least, I’m treading the same ground.

Anyway, I finally saw the Afghan dresses – fewer of them were displayed than I expected, but I saw them last Wednesday on the hottest day of 2021, at 27C. I went with my friend, Christine.

Bakers sculpture at 12 Widegate Street
Above Honest Burgers at 12 – 13 Widegate Street, there are four glazed sculpted panels showing the various stages of baking bread – installed in 1926. They mark the location of the Nordheim Model Bakery, which rustled up beigels and other Jewish delights for those who lived in the surrounding alleyways and beyond
Kings Stores
Kings Stores pub, 14 Widegate Street, is named because it was the site of a huge munitions store under Henry VIII. In this area is Artillery Street and Passage, as well as Gun Street

Inside Townhouse at last, we asked to see the dresses and went through to the small gallery building at the back – it’s the size of a small living room. The exhibition was smaller than expected, but the dresses were lovely. You can read what inspired the exhibit and the dresses’ owner here. I enjoyed seeing the ideas the dresses’ creators had. The mirrors, embroidery, extra braiding and stitching. I mentioned to Chris, it reminded me of the shirts I’d made Jimmy (my first real boyfriend) when I had no idea how to make clothes, but pieced them together in shapes, creating curves with my stitches and not my scissors. You could buy these pieces. They ranged around £250-350.

Townhouse interior
Townhouse is a lovely store with antiques and crafts, Fournier Street



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COVID – Restlessness and Lethargy

Thursday, 8th April, 2021

I think about my blog every day. I think about writing for it every day. A day becomes a week becomes a month. I’m at once restless and lethargic, and how do I come to terms with that?

I’m not exactly sure.

My mother always told me, Janice, you think too much. She was right. What I think most about is other people. Who are they? What are they doing? Why don’t I know them? Where do they live? What do they eat? What are their lives when they are not in front of me, inside my head? Yes, all of that and more.

The short version of the story is I’m not getting out much and I’m not seeing that many people. Lockdowns combined with a deteriorating knee keep me indoors and away from things I normally love to do. I try to think about people who have written whole books while being (what I consider) prisoners of home and even bed. My hat’s off to them. Yes, the stories are still in my head but I lack the motivation. I’ve heard that inspiration is something being taken in, and motivation is about movement – a driving force.  Motivation is more closely connected to external stimuli, while inspiration is based on the internal stimuli. I’d say that right now I do feel inspired, but not really motivated. So if I’m not getting out that much, external stimuli are dampened, and the thoughts stay inside my head. So let’s get them out a bit.

I say I haven’t been out much, but I’m blessed by living in an area that is infinitely walkable (even now, and even though that might be limited) and infinitely fascinating. Those who feel at one with nature have a hard time understanding that. In nature I understand the peace and beauty, but as large as the vista might be, it’s harder for me to examine. Where are the people? Maybe I don’t want to face the person who is there – me. Hmm.

Right now ‘me’ is a person who can barely walk. My knee has given up and more than a few minutes on it becomes unbearably painful. Except I do bear it, and don’t want to. I’m doing my best. If I don’t try, then I’m missing out on so many things. Throughout the pandemic, I’ve managed what I could. Now my radius is shrinking and I’ll still do what I can. So let’s look at what I’ve managed to do and think positive and look ahead.

Not in order but a smattering of life chez moi at the moment.

Poetto
We are still mourning the loss of a favourite haunt, Poetto – a nice pizza and pasta with friendly service. Gone a few months before lockdown. Maybe it was a blessing for them.

Dragon guarding Upper Clapton Road
Krish noticed a dragon standing over a building – now building supplies but we’d love to know what it was before. I’ll keep researching!
Tram Depot
There was apparently a tram depot in Clapton and this is the yard. Nowadays it’s a collection of rental studios for film and photography called Hackney Studios. Notice the ghost sign, centre right.
Tram Store
After the tram depot, we visited Tram Shop. You can normally have a meal here, but right now it’s a general store. We found a few things to buy, none were food.
On the way to The Dusty Knuckle
I wanted to buy something at the Dusty Knuckle in Dalston. By the time I made it there (damn you, bad knee) the shelves were bare. Absolutely everything had sold out. This is the alley leading down to the bakery yard.

Stik in the Curve Garden
I hadn’t been in the Curve Garden for months! It was looking very green and wasn’t too busy. So Melodie and I sat by the Stik wallart and Melodie, who used to be his landlady, sent him texts, unanswered. I’m still a groupie, it seems.
Five King Edwards Road
When Krish had his vaccination, we made time to visit Fremont Street, home of my great grandmother and father, and where my maternal grandmother was born. Along the way we saw Five King Edwards Road, once a women’s fashion factory, now fancy flats.
Some elegant stonework.
We think this grand facade was likely the offices for the factory. Such elegant stonework.
Fremont Street

6 Fremont Street

6 Fremont Street. My maternal great grandparents lived here. It seems strange that I am now only 1km away from an ancestral home. Strange but fitting.
Nan and her mum
My maternal great grandmother, Phoebe, with my maternal grandmother, Charlotte (looking incredibly like my mum)

Tesco

Tesco Morning Lane. In just one year the world has changed. Shopping is a new experience and sometimes it feels like it was always like this, especially when I see people looking like they are used to it.

Knitting
I have always been a bad needleworker, but I enjoy creating things, watching them take shape. I made these ‘postwoman’s gloves’ from a simple pattern and decorated them. I’ve now made a third pair in light orange.
Stik at Homerton
I went for an XRay on my knee and made sure I stayed a while in front of the Stik mural in one of the courtyards. 
Daylight Savings Time
On 28 March the clocks went forward in the UK. The evenings are longer. The trees on Sandringham Avenue will soon be in leaf, and the skies will stay lighter.

Traffic
Low Traffic Neighbourhoods have taken cars away from some smaller streets and forced them to the larger streets, like mine. Every day starting around 3pm the parade of cars begins, ending almost four hours later.

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Vaccinated!

Monday, 1st February, 2021

Today was historic for me. I had my first Covid vaccination. I’ll confess I hadn’t wanted to be one of the first in line for it. It feels too new and untested, but I also knew deep down that I would probably be just fine with doing it when invited. My invitation came by text on Tuesday, I phoned my doctor’s office on Wednesday morning and they offered me today (Monday) at 12:10pm. I was on!

If you’re still waiting and want to know what it’s like…Pictorial essay follows!

Bocking Street Vaccine Centre
I had the choice of two vaccination centres. I chose Bocking Street, which is at the back of Mare Street Market. The building didn’t inspire much
Queue for vaccines
There was a short queue waiting to get in. We were met at the door and asked the usual health questions and had our temperature taken and hands sanitised. We then went through a second check. I asked if Krish could get a vaccine as my carer and was told to try when I reached the window. They were very nice, but said ‘not today’
Waiting room
Inside the centre, I got a seat among others with plexiglass between each one. I had an entry ticket number that they jokingly referred to as my raffle ticket. Krish was allowed in with me all the way
Vaccination Centre Cleaner
There was one person doing cleaning at the centre. She diligently cleaned every chair, in every area after each person, seldom resting. Hats off to her!
Cleaning
Cleaning
Cleaning
Cleaning
Waiting room, Vaccination Centre
We waited on our chairs, plastic shields between each one

So what was it like, getting the vaccine? I was sent into the main room which had many cubicles. They told me walk straight ahead where I saw a doctor waiting, masked. His badge read ‘Declan’ and he told me his name, which I sadly forget.

Declan explained to me about the vaccine and asked me a few questions. He then asked me if I had any questions of my own. I told him that, despite everything, I always worried somewhat about having an allergic reaction and he reassured me that if I had never had one, it was extremely unlikely. He explained things as if he were doing it for the first time – simply and warmly. I appreciated that. He prepared the syringe and stood beside me and I waited for the ‘sharp, short pain’ he promised. Then he said ‘OK, it’s done.’ I was actually shocked. I hadn’t felt anything at all and thought I hadn’t had it yet. I told him so and he said ‘It’s not about skill. It’s hit and miss if I hit a pain receptor spot.’ I thanked him and headed off for the assessment waiting room, where I would wait fifteen minutes.

Post vaccination waiting area
After getting our vaccine, we waited again for fifteen minutes to make sure we were well enough to leave. Note the cleaner again (on the right)
Exit from the Vaccination Centre
Exit from the Vaccination Centre
Mare Street at King Edwards Road
Mare Street at King Edwards Road

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A walk in the past and the present

Wednesday, 27th January, 2021

Still strange to see 2021 written down but here it is. I’m finding it hard to think of things to write and staying local means there are fewer photos to spark my imagination. I’m taking them, though. Each one tells a story. So perhaps something newsy isn’t such a bad way to go. Somehow I know that other thoughts must blossom from this.

Today I’m feeling sad and thinking about loss. It’s Holocaust Day and I attended the online Memorial for Hackney. The stories were poignant – I’ve lit a candle. Yesterday I finished watching the series ‘It’s a Sin’ – a mini series about HIV/AIDS in the 80s in the UK. Lots of memories flooded my brain – of my brother in law declining and eventually dying of AIDS, of fleeting friends dying of it in Toronto – it felt like droves, of a friend who died of advanced breast cancer back in the early 1990s when they didn’t save as many women, and of my brother and I helping my dad through his days with pancreatic cancer. So, yes, sad.

Anyway, we are in another lockdown – is that three or four? No end date that I’ve heard of but possibly March, maybe April. Someone muttered ‘Easter.’ In short, who knows? It’s not quiet like last March but it’s quieter than last February so I’ll take what I can get. I order groceries for delivery, fill in with short jaunts to the very local and the somewhat local shops, and I stay in keeping myself busy or at least entertained.

With that in mind, my last exploration walk was a short one that I’d been putting off for some time. It’s a walk along the very short Spurstowe Terrace. I’d been thinking about walking along there for some time. It’s been ages since I did that. The crazy (or not so, really) thing was how different it looks from that last time.

My first question was who was Spurstowe? William Spurstowe lived from 1605–1666) and was a Calvinist clergyman, theologian, and member of the Westminster Assembly. He became vicar of Hackney in 1643. In 1662 the Uniformity Act was introduced and he was one of over 2,000 clergymen who refused to take the oath (the Great Ejection) so was ejected from his parish of Hackney for nonconformity. He remained in Hackney and built six almshouses there, work starting shortly before his death. Those almshouses are behind the Hackney Empire but he owned a great deal of ‘charity land’ in Hackney and I’m not sure if it would have included the space that Spurstowe Terrace occupies. More than likely it did, though, since some of his charity land was along Navarino Road. If you cross Graham Road, walking along Navarino Road, it intersects with Wilton Way and here you’ll find a very nice pub, the Spurstowe Arms. (I didn’t go that far.)

Hackney Downs Station
Hackney Downs Station on Dalston Lane at Amhurst Road
Tesco Express
To the right of the station is our Tesco Express. If we wanted we could do all our shopping here

Spurstowe Terrace

Spurstowe Terrace off Dalston Lane

Spurstowe Terrace
From Dalston Lane this is the (short) length of Spurstowe Terrace. You can see how much is new
A bit of the old peeking through
Much of Spurstowe Terrace is now modern or mid-century. However, behind the constructions and gates and hoarding, I got a peek of this older building. It seems to be an old factory or workshop
Back of Dalston Lane
I was quite fascinated by the smaller back gardens of these houses on Dalston Lane from Spurstowe Terrace.
Dole Office
I found this photo while researching. Doesn’t it look like the Dole Office was right against these houses on Dalston Lane? Those posts and gate have gone, if so
A glimpse of Navarino Mansions
From Spurstowe terrace, a parking area gave me a good view of Navarino Mansions
Modern living on Spurstowe Terrace
Modern living on Spurstowe Terrace

At the end of Spurstowe Terrace

At the end of Spurstowe Terrace were these housing authority houses – probably mid-century

Modern living
Modern living but not much of a view. You can just see Navarino Mansions. Wm Spurstowe had charity land on Navarino Road and perhaps here too

I did mention this street is no pretty sight! Would would William think?

Before Christmas they tore up the street in front of the house. It was very noisy and disruptive including the fact that the bus stops on either side of the ride were closed. This made going out shopping or making lighter of short exploration trips more difficult. Just before Christmas they filled everything in and we were back to normal. Not for too long, though. Not long after New Year’s Day back came the barricades and diggers. They closed off the area in front of the house, this time a larger area, and now the street facing down towards the house is also a construction site, no access for vehicles. This will go on until late February, but at least it’s been less noisy. I miss my bus stops!

Construction before Christmas
Construction before Christmas
Construction after Christmas
Construction after Christmas

So on the way home from a short Tesco shopping trip, I walked along most of the construction site  and made a video of what I see along my way (red line). Huge apologies and a warning here. I watched this myself and got very seasick. Wearing a mask, carrying a shopping bag, and with my glasses fogged up, I hadn’t accounted for the amount of rocking motion  that would be in the video. (And in the beginning, I clearly wasn’t capturing the whole whole view. Oops.) But there is a bonus – a quick side-trip to my closest corner store (so exciting). Anyway, grab your seasick pills or take it in stages!

Enough seasickness?