Park Dora – a modern Pompeii

Tuesday 24 October (Day Thirty-seven)

Today Krish wanted to show me Skatepark Dora. This land until the nineties housed the great production plants of Fiat and Michelin. The steel pylons of the structure remain. Sitting in the centre, looking around, I can’t help but think of Pompeii – another ruin. This one isn’t historic or fascinating in quite the same way so the city gave it to the people. It’s now a Skatepark, recreation area, and has a lot of wall art.

We take the number 3 tram, one of the historical lines, almost to the door. The effect of this park is eerie and stark. And it’s huge. In fact, the area the factories covered went all the way across to the other side of the major road and continued for some time.

Skatepark Dora Underpass
Skatepark Dora Underpass

On the other side are apartment buildings, new ones. And more wall art and concrete remains of the factories. There are also steel pedestrian bridges that cross all over this area.
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Lunch at home, the Mole and another bunch of oops

Sunday, 22 October (Day Thirty-five)

The fog is still on the hills so it’s a perfect day for my planned lunch. Liat arrives at noon and we tuck in. It’s been a struggle to make things that I’m very used to having. Things taste different but we eat – matzo ball soup again, then some veg and hummus, mango salad, and burrata with some fresh bread. It’s a success. Phew!

Oops. Esmeralda gets a text that her card has just been used. Suddenly she no longer has any hope that it’s been found. The bad news is that she has to call the bank and sort this out during our lunch. The good news is that now the rest of the day is cleared. No more hunting.

Liat, Esmeralda and I head out for the Mole. Sadly, when we get there there’s a really long queue and we decide not to join it but carry on walking.

Fall in Parco Reale
Fall in Parco Reale

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San Salvario and a lot of fruit

Wednesday, 18 October (Day Thirty-one)

This morning I went to get a new transit pass. The clerk was pretty surly today. At first she said she couldn’t help me without my receipt, then proceeded to ‘do things’ after I said I didn’t have it and what could I do? When I thanked her, her curt response was BYE. All right, then.

I looked at stalls to find stuffing for my next dolls. No luck. But on the way there, and after feeling somewhat down after my GTT experience, I had a good morning smile. In front of me, near the market, were two elderly men both pulling along shopping carts. Not in London, nor in Toronto have I seen men pulling carts for some serious shopping. I hope the reason here wasn’t a sad one.

Shopping carts
Shopping carts

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Exploring Vittoria and the business of Regeneration and Repurposing

Tuesday 17 October (Day Thirty) 

I didn’t expect to discover as much as I did today. And there seemed to be a theme. I heard about a restaurant and checked it out online. As often happens, looking at the restaurant meant looking at the area it was in. This one was at an area called Docks Dora. Krish said it sounded familiar and he wondered if it was a factory development he had seen on his last trip.

We took a bus and my pass wouldn’t BIP! Ugh. Off I go into the bus station where we need to step down and they confirm that it’s now BIPless. So that’s on my list now. On the buses and trams it may not matter too much but if I decide to take the metro I’ll be out of luck. Must get my BIP back!

We walk vaguely towards the area where Docks Dora is and discover a really nice high street area. There are little shops and cafes here and, although it’s quite traditional, I have a sense that this area will become a bit trendier with some time. It’s also residential and the flats here are middle class, clean, fairly modern. I could actually imagine living here.

Vittorio high street
Vittorio high street

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Costadoro tour and a great lunch!

Friday 13 October (Day Twenty-six)

Yes, Friday the thirteenth!

Today was the day I was going on my first tour – of the Costadoro Coffee Factory. I walked through the Piazza Reale grounds and arrived at the tourist info with half an hour to spare.

Through the Porte Palatine
Through the Porte Palatine

When no bus materialised at 9:20 I went into the office only to find out the bus was waiting somewhere else than described. What started out as a leisurely morning was now a bit of a rush!

Piazza Castello in the morning
Piazza Castello in the morning

At the bus I was introduced to my translator. Strapped in and off we go! The translator had no idea where the factory was – saying she didn’t know all the neighbourhoods of Torino (‘You know how it is when you live somewhere.’ Um, no!) However, the unknown neighbourhood was more or less my own but about a mile further east.

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