E cucina and a very nice view

Monday, 6 November (Day fifty)

Today I decided to try to go out. My bus pass will be working so I’m confident that I can abort the outing at any time.

The rain has been a bit annoying but there is a silver lining. The view from the window today was almost crystal clear. The hills and the Alps look fantastic.

The Alps are so clear
The Alps are so clear

We walk for quite a while in the end. Krish is looking for a hardware store that he saw on our last walk to the Pietro Micca museum area. First we go to the Bialetti store but, although we see some nice things, everything is made in China so that’s a no-go for Krish. Then we don’t find the other hardware store, but it’s good to be out.

There are some interesting things along the way as we explore.

Lion of Venice?
Lion of Venice?
Work relief
Work relief
Vintage Coke ad
Vintage Coke ad

As we walk along on the way home we think about getting some pasta somewhere. And then we saw a restaurant with a queue outside. People are waiting to get into a restaurant space. We can see inside that every table has an interesting basket of bread, ready to go. We bounce it back and forth and then decide that if the locals are so keen to go in, we will too!

Yes, another disappointment. The bread is OK. A server comes to explain the menu but it’s very difficult to understand so she sends over another server to talk to us in English. He’s not a lot easier to understand but we sort of do know what to get and what to do. We each order a pasta and we get one fish main. We get some sparkling water and refuse any wine.

First they bring a little starter. It’s a very small bowl of polenta with one sprig of broccoli, soft enough to cut with a fork. Not bad. The pasta, though, is very al dente. It has a creamy tomato sauce with a few pieces of eggplant and fish. It’s chewy and there’s far too much of it. Neither of us eat more than a half. The fish comes with some sweet potato, more eggplant, and a few pieces of pineapple. It’s not bad. We decide to leave without eating the dessert and Krish goes to pay the bill. I go to the bathroom and meet Krish outside.

Lunch at E Cucina
Lunch at E Cucina

He’s flustered. The bill was thirty euros and he hovers between laughter and dismay. Although we haven’t eaten everything on the fixed menus, we’ve been charged full price for this. Oh no! The only thing to do is carry on and try to let it go.

But there is a nice touch to the day. The Alps are now even clearer and the view is stunning even from the centre of town.

 

The Alps from the centre of town
The Alps from the centre of town

We have a quiet evening!

Via Cernaia, The Lights

Friday, 3 November (Day Forty-seven)

The days are winding down. I’ve decided against Milan since there is still a list of things to do in Torino. I confess that one reason is I have no one to go with. I’m not usually shy about big cities no matter how gritty but for some reason, the combination of gritty city and navigating in Italian have scared me away from this plan. Hopefully there’ll be no regrets.

I read that the Pietro Micca museum is free every day and I have a bit of time to spare today so off we set. We also visit a shop where everything is made by prisoners (some nice stuff!) and a gallery of photographs showing how Torino has grown since 1995 – answer = a lot!

We walk along Via Cernaia and see it with different eyes than in our first week. The shops are quite fancy here. We pop into a store that sells British groceries – just a few – and are astounded by the price tag of 12 Euros on a box of 120 PG Tips. And here’s a jar of Patak’s Balti Paste – at 8 Euros I might have considered it earlier in the trip. Serves me right for forgetting to bring a bit for this journey. Oh well, soon enough… There’s some cool chocolate gifts in here too but we walk out emptyhanded.

The big road closest to the Pietro Micca (via Vinzaglio) is very wide and very long. I can’t see the end of it. On the sidewalk I see a reminder of Italy’s past – I wonder how many others there are. Had I seen this earlier in my adventure I’d have gone looking for them. But perhaps it’s best that I didn’t. My mood turns sombre.

Assassinato
Assassinato

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Settimanale ticket, the rest of the Millos and Luci d’Artista

Thursday, 2 November (Day Forty-six)

Today, if we want to complete our Millo tour, we need to renew our BIP card so we walk over to the Tabaccheria where the man speaks English and we order a week’s travel. Simple!

On the tram, our cards don’t go BIP.  They make a hesitant warbling sound and a notice flashes up that might have read Not Valid. Not again! We carry on regardless but as we travel I read the receipt. It starts Monday! Apparently the settimanale is from Monday to Sunday and we weren’t aware. We make the decision to play dumb and work out the solutions but it does put a bit of a crimp in our plans to have unlimited travel for the remaining two weeks. Hmm.

Onward.

There are five Millos left and I’m pretty sure two of them were ones we have seen on our last visit. I even mentally locate them – on residential streets, with nothing much around them. Let’s see if I’m right.

In fact, I am. A bit of back and forth while we get our bearings on the map and find the Millos sometimes not quite where we imagined, but there they all are in the end. One is in a small children’s school playground. That’s the hardest to photograph. The last one is in a narrow street opposite some construction that makes it a little hard to photograph too.

Millo 9

Millo 10

Millo 11

Millo 13
The rest of the Millos

However, I find a nice cafe selling a slice of plain pizza and there behind the counter is Krish’s favourite Naples pastry -frolla. He’s been looking for one for quite a while and has even talked of making his own…some day. The frolla is made with sweet short pastry dough that surrounds a ricotta and dried fruit filling. (And no, it’s actually not too sweet!)

Video: How to make a frolla
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All Saints Day, Churches

Wednesday, 1 November (Day Forty-five)

Today is All Saints Day. The market and many stores are closed. And today we have no more days on our BIP card so the first order of the day is to get it filled up again. Then we plan to go see the rest of the Millo pieces in Barriera di Milano.

When we go out, we can’t find a tobacconist that’s open so we readjust our plans. We’ll stay local and visit a church we’ve seen from the tram.

It’s just a short walk away to the west of us. Along the way there are a few Chinese restaurants that we take note of. I’m feeling a bit ‘off’ today and a bowl of noodle soup sounds perfect. We even find a Chinese bakery. No 2 for a dollar bun here, though – Two euros a piece.

This area of Regina Marguerita is scruffy. People beg along here, they sell goods from shopping carts and carrier bags, and we’ve seen small gangs and individuals selling drugs. Not pretty but all part of city life.

Also to the west is Rondò della Forca (Gallows Corner). It’s a very large intersection with five roads meeting at the roundabout. Between  1835 to 1853 public hangings took place here. It’s also said to the birthplace of the square loaf – “Pancarrè” is a type of sliced bread, whose name is synonymous with “Square Bread”. Born in Turin, its origin is really special. Back in the old times, when an executioner went into a bakery to buy bread he was usually met with the resistance of the baker that was not happy to serve those who dealt in such a trade and, as a sign of contempt, would hand him the loaf upside down. Later on, this practice was banned by an ordinance, however, it was soon overtaken by bakers, who started to produce a new type of square bread, equal on each side, in order to continue undetected with their little “benevolent” custom as an inside joke (from “Alla scoperta del cibo” by Fabrizio Diolaiuti, Sperling & Kupfer).  That’s some history!

The church we’re looking for is called Maria Ausiliatrice – it’s a beauty!

Maria Ausiliatrice
Maria Ausiliatrice
Maria Ausiliatrice dome
Maria Ausiliatrice dome
Fountain for Three
Fountain for Three

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Pozzo Strada, Music Library, Corso Francia and HALLOWE’EN!

This morning I finally made my beef stew – with red wine, whole garlic, red onion wedges, thyme, and some young carrots. I taste it before we leave and am thrilled that it’s much more tender than the original too-lean meat promised.

On the way out we go along Via Milano. We used to be on this road a lot in ‘our’ old flat but haven’t gone along here too often this time. There are still things there that evoke the pure essence of Torino.

Torino Star
Torino Star
Via Milano and Piazza della Citta
Via Milano and Piazza della Citta

We went on the metro to Pozzo Strada. We had no idea what was there – we chose the station at random. Pozzo! Pozzo! Turns out it means ‘well.’ Nothing much around there – lots of low rise apartments. What was pretty cool, though, was how long and straight the road was (Roman roads here in Turin) and straight through to the Alps. Today we could see them.

Pozzo Strada
Pozzo Strada
Alps view
Alps view

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