Culinary Distractions – Shikumen and Mercato Metropolitano

Sunday, 14 January, 2018

Here I sit on yet another cold, grey morning after a couple of frivolous Netflix half hours. It seems to me that this is the greyest January I can remember in London. Krish says it’s always like this. Maybe I have the February blahs a little early.

Then there are culinary distractions!

The first was Shikumen and our third visit to this Aldgate location. We don’t usually go to expensive restaurants, preferring hole in the wall discoveries, hidden gems where only locals visit. Then we saw that a new Aldgate location of the small chain, Shikumen, was opening in the Dorsett Hotel near the tube station. For the first month they were offering 50% off all food if you reserved a table. Great opportunity! We seized it.

We visited Shikumen twice that month. The food was expertly cooked, the space was clean and modern, and the service was attentive and friendly. It was a no-brainer. However, the prices are high and we’re used to a cosy plate in Toronto’s Chinatown, so the discount is a must.

Just before Christmas Shikumen offered 50% off gift certificates so we ordered two and waited for the new year.

Our first visit was for dinner last week. I completely surprised myself by walking the 5.5km all the way along Mare Street, Cambridge Heath Road and Whitechapel Road to Aldgate. I was very happy to see the Dorsett in view at the end of the route.

Whitechapel sign
Whitechapel is changing from a rundown East End neighbourhood to one that is modern and corporate
View from Shikumen
The view from Shikumen shows that Aldgate too is definitely 21st century

Continue reading “Culinary Distractions – Shikumen and Mercato Metropolitano”

Treasures

Friday, 12 January, 2018

A self indulgent post. I’d like to talk about some of my treasures. Some people would call it clutter, I suppose.

Most of it is in a glossy red Ikea wall unit in the living room. There are many stories and memories in these spaces.

One of my dolls (Krish likes this one), a tin I’ve had for decades, some diwali candles and my little menorah. My Doctor Who (#11) figure. The puppet was made by Robin in kindergarten. Robin was surprisingly not good at crafts considering his artistic talents but he curiously labelled everything pedantically alongside his classmates’ imaginative descriptions – ‘this is my doll.’ The green eggcup on the right belonged to my mother and was part of a set of heavy pottery. I saved just this piece due to the weight, although I always admired it.  The little figures at the front belong to Krish – they are things I’ve brought back from my solo adventures – all meant to convey travellers who always come home.

Two more tins,  with my favourite photo of myself at three years old on Lessada Street, where I spent my early childhood.  The china figures on the left are my mother’s The dolls at the front I bought on Chatsworth Road – they amused me! And on the right is my Muffin the Mule puppet, a Christmas present from my ex husband – it brought a huge smile to my face then and still does.  Muffin was a TV puppet when I was very young.

Dolls I’ve collected! Three of them were mum’s – the big one at the back and the one in front of her, and the wooden doll. At the back on the right is the only doll I’ve ever bought new, a little shabby now but I love her face. I bought the cowboy and girl in an antique shop. In the middle is an antique doll that dances when you wind her up. Many Christmases ago when I was alone, someone invited me to dinner with his family.  He gave me this doll, which I instantly loved. He didn’t like me very much so the doll was a complete surprise. The peasant doll is from my brother, bought on his Baltic cruise. Lastly, the very un-PC golliwog keychain I found in a shop somewhere

I’ve been collecting snowglobes for ages and here are a few. At the back is a linocut illustration from an old school friend who  makes wonderful prints. I’m fond of little religious icons but can’t afford more than silly ones. And I have a very small collection of vehicles. Look at the beautifully happy photo of Robin, taken when we visited La Habra one year.

Among the snowglobes is another un-PC possession, the salt and pepper shakers.  At the back on the left is Krish’s very Canadian moose, which he got as a gift one year with some hot chocolate.

More snowglobes! And on the left, two school prize books – for French. And on the right, a Pinocchio I bought in a lovely old toy shop in Porto. The shopkeeper was very old and spoke no English. I held his interest when I noticed he had writing on his hand – I stopped and showed him my hand, also written on. We shared a smiling moment.  I’m sure he isn’t there any more.

I’m quite fascinated with the Mexican day of the dead dolls.  The ones at the back in the centre are from my brother. The couple on the right we bought in Barcelona of all places – they were our first. The others I’ve picked up here and there. And another lovely – and cherubic – photo of Robin in what I thought was a gorgeous frame when I bought it many many years ago

Some of my dolls. I have one space in this wall unit stuffed with them. My dream is to get them all adopted!

Stuffed toys. At the back left is a lovely teddy bear handmade by my niece, Suzanne.  At the back right, the first rag doll I made for my mum – passed back to me now. The rest are mostly gifts from Robin. All treasured.

An eclectic mix here!  A basket set. A Legolas figure. A ship I bought in Genoa. A Ganesha given to Krish one year at Christmas. A couple of old tins, and a shiny TTC token from Toronto.

More old tins, Another one of my dolls and at the front right my most precious treasure – a china figure of a white kitten climbing on a black boot, given to me by my maternal grandmother, Charlotte. She had also inherited it and I don’t know how old it was but she told me it was won at a fair by a relative. maybe at a coconut shy. When I was little and staying with my grandparents, she would tuck it into bed with me, saying that it would keep me safe. I’m so glad she gave it to me when she was still alive.

At the top of the wall unit, I have two of mum’s needlepoints, as well as a dolhouse Krish gave me to put together last year. To the left and the right are two prints from Budapest. A funny but not surprising to us story about them. I bought one for Krish for Christmas after visiting Budapest for the Christmas market in 2016. On my birthday, March 2017, he presented me with another different one from the same series. We had bought each other the same gift. Robin gave me the mug – it’s from the Vancouver Winter Olympics.

In the bedroom is the  mirror Krish bought in the Oxfam Charity shop in Dalston . In front of it a bit too much in the way of things but there they are. Notably, a photo of my Aunt Kitty (mum’s older sister) holding me in my grandmother’s back garden, an African doll I bought for my mum and reappropriated when the house was sold, cologne, my small jewellery collection, and some frozen Charlottes from my close friend, Denise.

There are more…of course.

Twelfth night at the Geffrye

Saturday, 6 January, 2018

Every year, at the Geffrye Museum – a museum  set in 18th century almshouses that explores the home from 1600 to the present day. It shows London living rooms and gardens and home life through the centuries, “reflecting changes in society, behaviour, style and taste” – on twelfth night 6th January, they ritually burn all of the greenery that has been used to decorate the Christmas themed rooms. The burning of the holly and the ivy is a lovely thing to watch. They add in carolling, hot cider and fruit cake before the large bonfire is built and people gather around to stare at the flames, and chat and sing.  I’ve been there many times for this ceremony.

On the 7th January this year the Geffrye is closing for two years for redevelopment. The upper floor will now be part of the museum.  Although I’ve seen the bonfire celebrations gain some recognition, this year as I approached on the other side of the road, I could tell its popularity had swelled. In fact, there were queues at each gate entry and all along the road people were still arriving or walking away in search of food until entry was easier.  I’d never seen this before.

Queues at the Geffrye
Queues at the Geffrye

The Geffrye is in Shoreditch, the far reaches of Hackney, near Old Street, and Hoxton stations. This is a trendy area with lots of night life, street art, restaurants, along with the history.  It’s also the home of Vietnamese restaurants. Not just a few, but a whole community of them stretching along Kingsland Road and Old Street.

We did have a favourite for a while. We were introduced to it by a Vietnamese couple so knew that it was the sort of food they cooked themselves and ate routinely in the Hanoi region. We’d go regularly and we had our favourite dishes – Hanoi Fish, (Chả Cá Thăng Long – turmeric fish with dill) – a dish I still make – and Buda Aubergine – eggplant steamed whole and stuffed with tofu, mung bean and seasonable vegetables.  Then it closed. Tragedy. We haven’t found a replacement, although I keep looking.

Seeing the crowds, I headed for the Green Papaya – although many were going to the very popular and crowded Song Que, trailing along the normally peaceful street .

Crowds along Kingsland Road
Crowds along Kingsland Road

Is Green Papaya a favourite, a replace for Que Viet? No! But it will do. Although it’s a very trendy cafe, with the more favoured branch being in Hackney Central, it was empty.

Pho at Green Papaya
Cheating a little, this is a pho I had the previous week – tastes good, meat cut too thick!
Grilled pork bun at Green Papaya
Today I had the ubiquitous grilled pork with vermicelli

I can’t get used to the prices of Vietnamese food here in London. The grilled pork dish is £8.50, tea is £1.50.  The pork is belly pork, so fatty. The flavour is there, though.

I once said Vietnamese food might be the one I’d choose if told I had to eat only one cuisine for the rest of my life. Perhaps. I’m coming around to Modern British though. British food has had too harsh a reputation for far too long. That’s a topic for another day! Continue reading “Twelfth night at the Geffrye”

What to do in the doldrums between Christmas and New Year – Museum of London

Friday, 29 December, 2017

Right after Christmas, it’s nice to have some sensible eating days before the New Year’s Eve celebrations – whatever they may be this year. So we’ve been having our customary plates of raw vegetables, cheese, and hummus. This is a staple throughout the year. One of us will think of having dinner and proclaim it to be raw veggie day, and it’s always a roaring hit even it occasionally becomes dinner for company! (We snuck in some pakora from Ambala, lest we feel too healthy!)

Raw veggies

Yesterday, Thursday, Krish announced that we should go to the Museum of London to see the performance of The Christmas Carol. It sounded like a great idea. The sun had finally started to shine, no rain in sight, and it’s one bus the whole way.

There’s only one lane in each direction but we were in the doldrums and things moved along pretty quickly. We went from the flat land of Dalston towards the increasingly high rise area around the Barbican. As you get closer, there’s one of my favourite views from the top deck of a bus (third photo)

Exodus from Hackney along Balls Pond Road
Exodus from Hackney along Balls Pond Road
Roseberry Avenue
Roseberry Avenue

The Barbican, opened in 1982 to replace slum dwellings, is brutalist architecture at its best, having been voted London’s ugliest building. Its mass is pretty stunning.  It actually is on multi levels with numerous entrances from ground level, with staircases and walkways to join the whole. There is a theatre and exhibit spaces, and various community areas contained within this estate. Walking around here can get very interesting as long as you don’t get lost along the way.  From a distance there are two tall buildings, from close up it’s a more practical hive of flats.

The Barbican from the walkways
The Barbican from the walkways

But today we weren’t lingering. Maybe I’ll take more photos another day. Continue reading “What to do in the doldrums between Christmas and New Year – Museum of London”

Jolly old Christmas

Saturday, 24 December, 2017

I feel very fortunate not having to deal with rushing around to buy lots of presents, not having to visit too many people, and generally not needing to stress about Christmas. I also greatly appreciate the British sense of humour at this time of year, or any other for this matter.

When grocery shopping is a Must, the humour on this list is very much appreciated.

And, in case, I get weighed down by the issues that face the world these days, it’s good to be reminded of the really important problems reported on the front page of this newspaper:

We braved the damp, chilly weather for a visit to Walthamstow. Alas, although determined not to give in to the possible depression these grey skies may bring, our exploration fizzled rather than sparkled. Walthamstow put on an amusingly tacky show – it doesn’t look as hokey in the photo below!

And we watched the very British tradition of queuing to jam into the shops before the general closure of shops and transportation on Christmas Day.

Things were coming along in the flat, though. Just a bit more cleaning and it may even feel like Christmas.

And some Christmas eve baking – of mince tarts, sausage rolls, and anchovy cheese straws definitely helped things along. (My baking style is rustic!)

On Christmas day, Krish made dinner (something that has always been my domain but happy to give it up this year.

Dinner was pork tenderloin, stuffing balls, roasted potatoes and brussels sprouts, some apple sauce, cranberry sauce ( like both!) and some kosher pickle. It may look beige, but it was truly delicious!

A hot water bottle each, some hot chocolate with liqueur and the night was complete.