So yes, we went back to Milan. I’d promised myself to try again if I had a better plan and a whole lot cooler day. And those criteria were filled.
My plan – start in NoLo (the immigrant area) head down to lunch with Daniele in his proposed lunch spot Mad’son, then on to Brera, down to Navigli and end up in Chinatown – if time I was going back to where Yayamoto was – which I believe is the old town. Plans!
(Now despite still not falling in love -or maybe not even like -with Milan, I did take far too many photos so I’ll try not to go overboard…bear with me.
A much better ride to Porta Susa – thanks to an earlier start (we were in a tearing hurry last time) and then arriving in Milan Central, now a familiar spot. We started walking towards the NoLo district, with my notes not really helping and, not too far along, decided again to separate and get on with our respective days.
I wanted to ride the historic tram number one and found the stop quite easily. It reminded me of riding in Lisbon or Budapest as it sped along. I don’t think I actually made it to the real NoLo. I wasn’t as prepared as I thought and the map didn’t really help. This, paired with the alarming way my phone battery was draining, so winged it.
Riding tram number 1 in Milan
I was, however, north of Loreto, and the population seemed mixed so perhaps I touched on it. The streets were not poor, though. Quite the opposite. I wandered around and needed a toilet so popped into a tabaccheria-bar. They were wonderful in there, falling over themselves to be helpful and make sure I was happy. Quite a nice experience to sit with a coffee and brioche, studying and marking the map and just generally feeling content
Streets in what I thought might be the edge of NoLoMama Orsa? (Mama bear?)My very nice snack and break! 3 eurosNow, ravioli I can understand, but gnocchi?
I’ve been wanting to go to the little cafe I enjoy. It’s called Cianci Piola and is in the prettiest square (in my opinion) in Torino. It feels like you’re in Paris but without the high prices and the attitude!
On the way over, I walked past some remains of the Roman wall.
At Cianci Piola, there’s always a choice of appetiser, first course, second course and dessert. I stayed with an appetiser and a pasta.
On the patio at Cianci PiolaA traditional Piemontese appetiser – tomini (a soft cheese) al verde ( a sauce made with parsley and anchovy (each round maybe 5cm)The primo – a small bowl of tajarin (the local pasta) with sausage and eggplantLeaving Cianci to go window shopping – the Duomo and the CampanileAffordable fashion at OVS. This Fall it’s all about see-through skirts
On the way back I finally climbed to the top of the NH Santo Stefano. I heard that it has the history of Torino on the walls as you climb. The pleasant surprise is that there aren’t stairs but little ledges along a spiraling ramp.
The gallery was made up of several posters, tracing the history of the city and saying where remnants of the past could still be found. I made note of several. What was interesting was that sometimes that old piece of history would be deliberately incorporated into something new – such as an old granite pillar that formed the cornerstone of a newer building. It’s like a treasure map.
The galleries along each floor of the NH HotelThe ledged ramp all the way up to each level. Very easy to manage
On the fourth floor there’s a lift to take you up to the very top, where there’s a panoramic view.
To the right the Campanile and the Palazzo Reale with its Roman wall, to the left the Porta PalatinaLovely view towards the Market square, with the Alps in the backgroundAnd almost home – a visit to see how Mr Fijodor’s whale is coming along
The last day of summer. The thermometer doesn’t know about that, though. I feel lazy, like the sun is siphoning off my energy instead of energising me. So I’ll make this a pictorial … for now. Will have to say more about Terra Madre etc.
Waking up to another hazy sunriseKrish was craving meat pie and so I made a Cornish pasty – first one in a long whileMr Fijodor’s whale art – about a week inDetailAt the base of the wall, his signature pieceSuch a quiet day in the Cortile del Maglio. Packed on the weekendA workshop on the periphery of the Cortile del Maglio. A lazy lunch on a bright day. One of Krish’s masterpiecesOn my list – climbing the stairs of the NH Hotel to see the historic photosIt’s Terramadre – huge food festival in Turin. Everywhere is packedAnd Via Po is so quietWalking through the Quadrilatero at night
We have gone through Milan on the train a few times. Each time we’ve looked out the window and thought, no. However, for this trip we wanted to not be so biased but make a visit or two. So two visits were booked.
This was the first one. It’s hard to know what to say but I will say that it was very hot. We had changed our first train journey to a week later because of the heat but it was barely one degree cooler than the cancelled date – forecasts had been promising a bigger drop. No matter, we went ahead.
It’s only a fast (300kmh) journey to Milan from Turin. When we arrived at the station, my first reaction was wow. It’s an immense and extremely grand and elegant station, definitely the most glamorous I’ve ever seen. Before I’d even left the station I was impressed. It’s large, grand, bustling and impressive in every way. I had no idea what I was going to do but I’d done some research and hoped to cover a couple of areas and eat a little along the way and get a taste of Milan.
The very grand Milan Centrale station, a bit of it anyway
We decided to head off towards a modern area. It was called Samsung District – Porta Nuova Smart Community (apparently a prize winning area). The heat was building and I was very tired already. The modern area was wide open with no shade. I soldiered on.
Samsung District, Milan
From quite a distance we’d noticed a building covered with trees, as we’ve seen in Turin, so we kept going.
Vertical Forest
By now I was flagging so left Krish to take photos, while I sat on a park bench near a fountain – no bull heads here! Looks like a little demon.
Milan fountain
Also in the park was a wall with darker bricks that formed a picture.
Building in Isola
So here’s my confession. I lingered over no photos, I lingered over nothing. I wasn’t impressed enough by anything. By the time I reached this park I already knew I was done! Tired, hot, and in pain. I told Krish that I couldn’t wander and that he should walk by himself at his own pace and I’d use the day in any way I could that would keep me comfortable. We talked about it a bit and then agreed.
I asked him to try to meet me at Yamaoto, a restaurant he’d wanted to eat, a few hours from then. So he sent off on foot to explore and I set off for the closest metro station, no mean feat!
Quiet street not so far from the centre, on my way to Zara metro
I’d heard about a gourmet food store, Peck. It sounded wonderful and maybe somewhere I could sit with a cold drink before going to the restaurant. This meant travelling to Duomo metro, luckily on the same (yellow) metro line. When I came out of the station, again I was completely blown away by what it was like. The pictures don’t show it as well as I’d hoped but it’s an enormous open square with the duomo on one side and on the other three sides, shopping. It was overwhelming and not in a good way. Tourists were milling everywhere, the noise and confusion were high. I really just wanted to leave so I set off to find Peck.
Vain attempt to show the Duomo and the squareDuomo flanked by shoppingBy the Duomo, porticoes leading to more shopping
I couldn’t find it and I was still very hot and unhappy. I wandered about trying to follow my map app’s instructions and found a nice little back area where people were miling a bit to get lunch, but again I was too hot to snap a proper photo or investigate. The name of the game was Find Cool Shelter!
Stupid heat. But we did go out. No goal and with our transport passes.
Waiting for a bus near Porta Nuova Station
The first time I came to Torino, I didn’t get to San Salvario. I usually avoid areas around big train stations. They’re typically rough. The second time, I went with Adrianna and I really liked it. Last year I felt turned off by it somewhat. This year I felt like I didn’t care if I ever returned to the area. It’s supposed to be lively but it’s been dead. The dereliction is the dusty, neglected type. It has a general air of apathy.
Shuttered store in San SalvarioThe usual collection of bikesThis park, like much of San Salvario, is vaguely ParisianA little paste up work
So we left and headed towards the distant dome of The Mole. And then eventually we were there. We both said the same – we’ve photographed it so often, there are probably no more photos to take. Somehow, though, I doubt it.
The Mole AntonellianaNews stand on Via PoThe sleepy tram homeMr Fijordor’s whale is progressing nicely!Outside the Chinese store near us some fish planned their escape. Sadly I didn’t capture the commotion or the mad flipping about
Piazza Mercanti (I think)
