More lazy hazy days…really lazy…

Saturday, 22 September, 2018 Staying around 30C

The last day of summer. The thermometer doesn’t know about that, though.  I feel lazy, like the sun is siphoning off my energy instead of energising me. So I’ll make this a pictorial … for now. Will have to say more about Terra Madre etc.

Waking up to another hazy sunrise
Waking up to another hazy sunrise
Krish was craving meat pie and so I made a Cornish pasty - first one in a long while
Krish was craving meat pie and so I made a Cornish pasty – first one in a long while
Mr Fijodor's whale art - about a week in
Mr Fijodor’s whale art – about a week in
Detail
Detail
At the base of the wall, his signature piece
At the base of the wall, his signature piece
Such a quiet day in the Cortile del Maglio. Packed on the weekend
Such a quiet day in the Cortile del Maglio. Packed on the weekend
A workshop on the periphery of the Cortile del Maglio.
A workshop on the periphery of the Cortile del Maglio.
A lazy lunch on a bright day. One of Krish's masterpieces
A lazy lunch on a bright day. One of Krish’s masterpieces
On my list - climbing the stairs of the NH Hotel to see the historic photos
On my list – climbing the stairs of the NH Hotel to see the historic photos
It's Terramadre - huge food festival in Turin. Everywhere is packed
It’s Terramadre – huge food festival in Turin. Everywhere is packed
And Via Po is so quiet
And Via Po is so quiet
Walking through the Quadrilatero at night
Walking through the Quadrilatero at night

Milan, why can’t we get along?

Wednesday, 19 September, 2018 32C

We have gone through Milan on the train a few times. Each time we’ve looked out the window and thought, no.  However, for this trip we wanted to not be so biased but make a visit or two. So two visits were booked.

This was the first one. It’s hard to know what to say but I will say that it was very hot. We had changed our first train journey to a week later because of the heat but it was barely one degree cooler than the cancelled date – forecasts had been promising a bigger drop. No matter, we went ahead.

It’s only a fast (300kmh) journey to Milan from Turin. When we arrived at the station, my first reaction was wow. It’s an immense and extremely grand and elegant station, definitely the most glamorous I’ve ever seen. Before I’d even left the station I was impressed. It’s large, grand, bustling and impressive in every way. I had no idea what I was going to do but I’d done some research and hoped to cover a couple of areas and eat a little along the way and get a taste of Milan.

The very grand Milan Centrale station
The very grand Milan Centrale station, a bit of it anyway

We decided to head off towards a modern area. It was called Samsung District – Porta Nuova Smart Community (apparently a prize winning area). The heat was building and I was very tired already. The modern area was wide open with no shade. I soldiered on.

Samsung District, Milan
Samsung District, Milan

From quite a distance we’d noticed a building covered with trees, as we’ve seen in Turin, so we kept going.

Vertical Forest
Vertical Forest

By now I was flagging so left Krish to take photos, while I sat on a park bench near a fountain – no bull heads here! Looks like a little demon.

Milan fountain
Milan fountain

Also in the park was a wall with darker bricks that formed a picture.

Building in Isola
Building in Isola

So here’s my confession. I lingered over no photos, I lingered over nothing. I wasn’t impressed enough by anything. By the time I reached this park I already knew I was done! Tired, hot, and in pain. I told Krish that I couldn’t wander and that he should walk by himself at his own pace and I’d use the day in any way I could that would keep me comfortable. We talked about it a bit and then agreed.

I asked him to try to meet me at Yamaoto, a restaurant he’d wanted to eat, a few hours from then. So he sent off on foot to explore and I set off for the closest metro station, no mean feat!

Quiet street not so far from the centre, on my way to Zara metro
Quiet street not so far from the centre, on my way to Zara metro

I’d heard about a gourmet food store, Peck. It sounded wonderful and maybe somewhere I could sit with a cold drink before going to the restaurant. This meant travelling to Duomo metro, luckily on the same (yellow) metro line. When I came out of the station, again I was completely blown away by what it was like. The pictures don’t show it as well as I’d hoped but it’s an enormous open square with the duomo on one side and on the other three sides, shopping.  It was overwhelming and not in a good way. Tourists were milling everywhere, the noise and confusion were high. I really just wanted to leave so I set off to find Peck.

Vain attempt to show the Duomo and the square
Vain attempt to show the Duomo and the square
Duomo flanked by shopping
Duomo flanked by shopping
By the Duomo, porticoes leading to more shopping
By the Duomo, porticoes leading to more shopping

I couldn’t find it and I was still very hot and unhappy. I wandered about trying to follow my map app’s instructions and found a nice little back area where people were miling a bit to get lunch, but again I was too hot to snap a proper photo or investigate. The name of the game was Find Cool Shelter!

Piazza Mercanti (I think)Piazza Mercanti (I think)
Continue reading “Milan, why can’t we get along?”

San Salvario

Tuesday, 18 September, 2018 32C

Stupid heat. But we did go out. No goal and with our transport passes.

Waiting for a bus near Porta Nuova Station
Waiting for a bus near Porta Nuova Station

The first time I came to Torino, I didn’t get to San Salvario. I usually avoid areas around big train stations. They’re typically rough. The second time, I went with Adrianna and I really liked it. Last year I felt turned off by it somewhat. This year I felt like I didn’t care if I ever returned to the area. It’s supposed to be lively but it’s been dead. The dereliction is the dusty, neglected type. It has a general air of apathy.

Shuttered store in San Stefano
Shuttered store in San Salvario
The usual collection of bikes
The usual collection of bikes
This park, like much of San Stefano, is vaguely Parisian
This park, like much of San Salvario, is vaguely Parisian
A little paste up work
A little paste up work

So we left and headed towards the distant dome of The Mole. And then eventually we were there. We both said the same – we’ve photographed it so often, there are probably no more photos to take. Somehow, though, I doubt it.

The Mole Antonelliana
The Mole Antonelliana
News stand on Via Po
News stand on Via Po
The sleepy tram home
The sleepy tram home
Mr Fijordor's whale is progressing nicely!
Mr Fijordor’s whale is progressing nicely!
Outside the Chinese store near us some fish planned their escape
Outside the Chinese store near us some fish planned their escape. Sadly I didn’t capture the commotion or the mad flipping about

Graffiti groupie in Torino and what I had for lunch

Sunday, 16 September, 2018 30C

Today we went to the Balon flea  market but it wasn’t there! I’m puzzled since I thought it was every Sunday! Never mind. So we headed back up to the main road, Regina Margherita.

On the side of the mosque near our flat
On the side of the mosque near our flat
Haven't noticed this flat before - nicely done!
Haven’t noticed this flat before – nicely done!

At the top of the street, we saw a roughly painted whale shape on the wall and, looking a bit more, there was a guy sitting on a wooden crate – the artist? Yes! So I went to chat with him. He said his name was Fijodor. He was from somewhere else but now in Turin. Where he comes from, it’s on the French border and in that part of the Mediterranean there are whales. His theme for the wall art will be plastics and the plight of the earth. The other interesting thing was he was from the place where plastic was invented.

He gave me his card.

The outline for the whale
The outline for the whale
Mr Fijodor takes a break
Mr Fijodor takes a break

Continue reading “Graffiti groupie in Torino and what I had for lunch”

Shopping in Torino

Saturday, 15 September, 2018 32 and very humid

I went out!

I decided over breakfast that I wanted to go shopping, something I rarely do while on holiday. There are two stores I’ve heard about that might do the trick. One is OVS, which is a clothing department store, and the other is Rinascente, a national department store. There are several shopping areas in Turin but these stores are on Via Lagrange and Via Roma – both somewhat upscale.

Dhal for breakfast
Dhal for breakfast

The tram wasn’t as crowded as expected this morning, particularly since a lot of people get off at the first stop, Porta Palazzo market, in full swing for a Saturday. We both score a seat!

When we get to our final stop there’s more to see than we expected – a real mix of buildings. Some quite baroque, and one looked medieval. We wandered along the street looking at the architectural details. This isn’t like Paris, where all the buildings conform in colour and design, and this makes everything seem more interesting so we’re curious.

Some of the architectural detail is stunning
Some of the architectural detail is stunning

Ahead of us on the main road, we spotted an impressive building with one of those really tall doors. We headed towards it to start our journey to shop but were a bit delayed by swarms of birds.

A couple of times birds came swooping down the road
A couple of times birds came swooping down the road
The birds perched everywhere and we noticed there's no deterring spikes here
The birds perched everywhere and we noticed there’s no deterring spikes here
Looking towards our targeted building, the contrast with the medieval building on the right
Looking towards our targeted building, the contrast with the medieval building on the right
Someone opened the front door of this magnificent building
Someone opened the front door of the magnificent building we were heading towards

There were some great details on that building. First, it must have originally been something to do with electricity ( I can’t find the details so far) since along above some windows there were some engraved names – GRAMME THOMSON EDISON AMPERE FARADAY OHM.

Electricity!
Electricity!

And another great detail – wish I were taller – these rather demonic figures!

Turin has links to the occult - can see why
Turin has links to the occult – can see why

Then we turned towards – shopping! Continue reading “Shopping in Torino”