Hackney has a carnival

Sunday, 8 September, 2019

I haven’t been able to find out how many years it’s been going but there has been some sort of small local carnival in the area since the early 70s. The larger Hackney One Carnival wasn’t much when I first arrived in Hackney. I remember a small parade that would travel along from the town hall to Amhurst Road, move down Pembury Road and land at Hackney Downs, where there would be several stalls set up. Up in Ridley Road market there was more to see – more music, more food.

But it’s grown. Now the route is longer and there are many performers. Now there are satellite areas all over, with several sound stages, impromptu and planned.

When I woke up and began preparing for the day, things seemed to kick into gear early. I could hear a persistent voice saying something like ‘Get off the bike or we will call the police.’ At first puzzled, I then realised that someone must have been on a public-use bike that shouldn’t be riding it. I had no idea these bikes could talk.

My Hackney morning had begun.

I was really surprised when Krish said he’d come with me to the parade. He’s not good with such events. However, we set off together past the barriers that closed off traffic and towards the town hall. I didn’t have a lot of time but I wanted to see something of the parade – being short, and with more than 60,000 people expected, I wasn’t anticipating much joy with that – then check out Bohemia Place market, travel along the Narrow Way, behind St Augustine’s Tower to the churchyards, the bicycle path, and on to St John’s of Hackney – two hours, I thought.

Roads were closed to traffic
Roads were closed to traffic
Rushing to be in the parade
Rushing to be in the parade
This is Hackney!
This is Hackney!
Glitter for sale
Glitter for sale
The crowd gathering
The crowd was gathering. I wasn’t sure I would be able to see a thing
Although there was a lot of police presence, they seemed relaxed and in the moment
Although there was a lot of police presence, they seemed relaxed and in the moment
Anticipation
Anticipation

Not surprisingly, Krish lasted less than ten minutes. That’s OK. My camera and I had plans.

And also not surprisingly, although the parade made lots of noise, I couldn’t see a thing. And I was short on time so I set off towards Bohemia Place. It wasn’t very busy. There were some stalls, a bunch selling food – mostly vegan as always – and a DJ on a sound stage.

Police and citizens mingling
Police and citizens mingling
Amidst all the fun, a reminder that Hackney needs to be knife-free
Amidst all the fun, a reminder that Hackney needs to be knife-free
Wandering into Bohemia Place
Wandering into Bohemia Place
Having fun in Bohemia Park
Having fun in Bohemia Place

The Narrow Way was pretty busy. I had a rare jaunt into the McDonalds, which was less not more busy than usual. A mini chicken wrap and mini ice cream and I was good for another hour or two.

The pedestrianised Narrow Way was busier than usual
The pedestrianised Narrow Way was busier than usual
Musicians
Musicians

There were two bands on the street with a good crowd for each.


I walked over to the churchyard past the tower. I found a children’s area inside what I call the Hackney Secret Garden and, to the side, a large sound stage was set up. I’d managed to catch the band between set and listened to the singer try to liven up the audience. This was strangely hard to do, considering the occasion, but I always have fun listening to the local hip hop accent.

It's all about the food
It’s all about the food

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Superclubbing! The Nyonya Supper Club

9 August, 2019

I haven’t been to a supper club for years!

I’ve been reading a blog called The Boy Who Ate the World for about ten years. I can’t even remember how I came across it.  The blogger is Guan Chua. He was born in Kuala Lumpur and lives in London, in the Whitechapel area. Guan used to be a financial analyst but then trained as a Cordon Bleu chef. He loves to travel and write about his foodie treks but best of all he loves to cook the Malaysian-Nyonya cuisine of his childhood.

Guan was a contestant on Nigella Lawson’s ‘The Taste,’ where he fulfilled his dream of being mentored by Anthony Bourdain. He didn’t win but I enjoyed his time on the show a lot. I knew he ran a supper club – better still, it was in the Whitechapel area! – but Krish isn’t keen on Malaysian food and I wasn’t keen to go alone, and spend the money! Instead I would just read Guan’s Instagram and think about the food. Emails would come in announcing a new supper club but typically I’d be too late to get a place, they’re snapped up so quickly.

One day a couple of months ago an email came in as I was sitting doing something else so I emailed back immediately – any date in August, please! This time I made it. I was going!

The night of the supper club, just as I was about to leave, a ridiculously unexpected and fierce rain and wind storm sprung up. I had to wait for it to pass, then saw that the next bus would be quite a while. I jumped on the next bus that took me anywhere close and we trundled along oh so slowly in the rainy, slow moving traffic. I found a bus stop for another bus to complete my journey and had quite a long wait again. By the time I reached Aldgate East station, I had only a few seconds to get there.

But I got lost! Dinner was feeling far far away. A few calls to Guan and I finally made it to his apartment block and into his small flat in the new complex I’d walked by so many times. I was at least 20 mins late but Guan greeted me with a lovely gin and tonic. I felt quite ready for it. I’d not had time to buy any drink for the table, as planned.

There were ten of us sitting down in the dining space in the open plan living room/kitchen. I was probably 30 years older than the oldest of them. These twenty and thirty somethings were chatting back and forth about their travels around Asia, and the food they’d found there. I felt quite overwhelmed with it. How had they travelled so much? What was going on? Somehow the world was leaving me behind, so I listened politely and waited for food. Definitely worth the wait!

The menu
The menu
Sambal Crab Bites - but I'm allergic to crab so didn't get the taste them
Sambal Crab Bites – but I’m allergic to crab so didn’t get to taste them
Guan had kindly made me my own crabless Sambal bites - Yum!
Guan had kindly made me my own crabless Sambal bites – Yum! (Although I lost my two temporary fillings crunching them up!)

This noodle dish was my favourite!
This cold noodle dish was my favourite! Kerabu Glass Noodles with crayfish and Nyonya Herbs. So fresh and mouthwatering. I want this recipe!
Lemongrass and Belachan chicken wings
Lemongrass and Belachan chicken wings.

Drunken prawns
Drunken prawns. I wimped out and didn’t eat the heads

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A routine hospital visit- The Royal London and Whitechapel

Wednesday, 28 August, 2019

I use a CPAP machine – I should talk about that some time – and, while it helps with some pretty severe symptoms such as night terrors and sleep paralysis as well as having a desirable effect of no snoring, it does mean that I’m never truly comfortable while sleeping. I’ve chosen the most minimal mask to wear but I just feel trapped behind it and I’m confined to certain sleeping positions. So when my sleep doctor asked me if I’d like to try a dental device instead, I thought it was worth my while to at least check into it. Reports from the CPAP users that I asked weren’t very favourable but I’d go see for myself.

I got a letter asking me to come to the Dental building at the Royal London Hospital and that’s not so far away. Today was the day. Except I woke up feeling groggy and shaky, and obviously not that thrilled with the thought of rousing myself and getting down there.

I had my tonsils out at the London Hospital (at Whitechapel). I was six years old and while my memories are interesting, they aren’t good ones. I was in a huge ward for about a week, walked down in a group of other lucky surgical victims, tricked into inhaling ether, or whatever they used to put me to sleep, dreamed a long dream of a bright star spinning in inky black space, and woke up to pure torture.  If you’ve ever had your tonsils out, you know exactly what I mean.

Archival image of a ward at the London Hospital
Archival image of a ward at the London Hospital

Before the surgery, they’d teased me with descriptions of all the lovely ice cream I’d be eating while my throat was ‘sore.’ It sounded all right! Now I knew the truth. Swallowing even my own saliva was more than I could tolerate. Ice cream? No way! I can even sort of remember the terrible, raw, soreness of my throat or can I?

Then a nurse kept coming by as I pulled out of my groggy just-anaethetised state, ‘Are you feeling sick?’ ‘Do you want to be sick?’ At the tender age of six, I found myself thinking ‘Hm, I think they’re telling me I’m going to be sick.’ And soon enough, I threw up a bunch of burning bloody stuff that made my throat feel even worse, if that was possible.

I think I must have struggled with a few sips of water at first. And then some time later, maybe a day, who knows, they came around with the food trolley. I was handed a plate, on which was some buttered bread fingers and many slices of orange. Orange! I knew instinctively that I could not eat those.  I protested and was told to be quiet. I looked under the plate where they’d always put a label with the patient’s name, and read ‘Janice Solomon.’ She was the little girl in the opposite bed in for a broken arm. ‘This isn’t mine,’ I said, ‘It’s for Janice Solomon. I can’t eat oranges.’ I was shushed and told ‘Eat it!’ I’ve fortunately forgotten what happened after that but I’m sure it wasn’t pretty.

For a week I could have no visitors. I’ve always had separation anxiety and imagined my family had abandoned me. One sadistic nurse even hinted at it. Then finally I got to go home and put the whole horrible thing behind me. As you can tell, I haven’t ever forgotten it.

Some years ago they closed the hospital and built a brand new hospital complex. Instead of the old brown brick ones, up went some blue glass towers. a few of the old brick ones remain here and there and still serving people. It’s strange that they’re still needed but it’s sort of comforting to see them there. They say that the Tower Hamlets council has bought the old main hospital building on Whitechapel Road and will be using it for a civic centre. It looks like they are keeping the old building and adding to it. I’m glad it won’t look so different from the road.

For some reason, I forgot to photograph the old hospital behind the hoardings but I did wander along the market, which we called Whitechapel Waste in my childhood days. It was a large Jewish market and now is completely Muslim

 


The new dental clinic at The Royal London
The new dental clinic at The Royal London – inside it was modern and bright
The old emergency dental clinic at the Royal London
The old emergency dental clinic at the Royal London – I went once and it was archaic and dark
Looking past the corner of the old dental clinic
Looking past the corner of the old dental clinic, you can see the many blue towers of the new Royal London
One of the remaining old buildings of the RLH
One of the remaining old buildings of the RLH – still in use
From the orthodontics clinic window
From the orthodontics clinic window – a long queue for one of the old buildings

I’m going back to the clinic later in the year for more investigations – I’m not ready yet for the device they want me to try – but I’ll be back in Whitechapel again many many times before that.
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Quirky Glasgow

18-21 August, 2019

Glasgow, you’re quirky! And I like that about you.

The quirkiest stuff is in the east end. It’s a rough area with no compromises. This is the Glasgow they tell you to avoid but, if you do, you’ll miss the very heart of this eclectic city.

This diner had some cheap cheap meals with a Scottish and Italian twist
This diner had some cheap cheap meals with a Scottish and Italian twist
 A Glasgow icon, The Saracen Head
A Glasgow icon, The Saracen Head, the oldest pub in Glasgow. The Glaswegians call it the Sarry Heid. It even has its own song – if you can find it online, let me know
Lots of sandwiches, lots of shutters and an offer to sell us marijuana
Lots of sandwiches, lots of shutters and an offer to sell us marijuana. This was done when a shopkeeper followed Krish out of a store he’d wandered into for matches. Enterprising!
Barrowland, next to The Barras Market
The Barrowland Ballroom, next to The Barras Market, opened in 1934 and has had many musical acts since then
The Barras - Glasgow's east end market
Last time we were at The Barras market it didn’t look as clean. There were many ramshackle stalls and shops and a hoard of football fans. The term “barra” is Glaswegian dialect for “barrow” when goods were sold from handcarts
Near the River Clyde the new Glasgow is emerging
Near the River Clyde the new Glasgow is emerging
A hostel sign that made me feel very Canadian
A hostel sign that made me feel very Canadian

And speaking of feeling Canadian, over by the university we found this! A really good belly laugh – even though we knew Glasgow had two of them.


I had an iced coffee
I had an iced coffee
These sturdy pillars were beautifully etched
These sturdy pillars were beautifully etched,  by the Glasgow Central train tracks along the Clyde
A little glimpse of the station among the metal
A little glimpse of the station among the metal
It's a Chelsea kinda attitude
It’s a Chelsea kinda attitude – on Bath Street
Only ghost sign I saw
Only ghost sign I saw
Could be the Brandenburg or Heroes Square
Could be the Brandenburg or Heroes Square
This bridge looked like it was made by Brunel but wasn't
Are we in Bristol? This bridge looked like it was made by Brunel but wasn’t
Glasgow may seem Italian sometimes but this is a reminder Gaelic is spoken
Glasgow may seem Italian sometimes but this is a reminder Gaelic is spoken
Couldn't resist taking this one - Krish's initials
Couldn’t resist taking this one – Krish’s initials
In the window of All Saints
In the window of All Saints
Ready for development
Ready for redevelopment
On the banks of the Clyde, Ladies used to wait ... for what? A boat?
On the banks of the Clyde, Ladies used to wait … for what? A boat?
Can't leave Scotland without having an Irn Bru!
Can’t leave Scotland without having an Irn Bru!

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Graffiti in Glasgow

18-21 August, 2019

Glasgow wasn’t close to London in how much street art it has but some of the pieces were quite lovely. Before arriving, we checked out the Mural Trail Map, but decided that we would see what we would see in the natural course of our day.

So see them we did. By chance and occasionally by design. Can you guess which ones I love the best?

Don't be fooled. This is a mural!
Don’t be fooled. This is a mural!


























Oh, yes, my favourites were the girl stepping out of the Van Gogh, and St Enoch cradling St Mungo (second from bottom). A close third was the depiction of Charles Rennie Mackintosh with his roses, at the site of the Clutha Bar, where a helicopter crashed in 2013. And I got a kick out of the two pieces featuring Tunnock’s Teacakes, Krish’s favourite snack. In a narrow alley, I could only take badly angled views.

I can’t label all of these but maybe with time… Oh, to have better legs to see all that Glasgow had to offer in the way of street art.