One of those everyday walks to Dalston?

Thursday, 30 July 2020

I have a plan to take little corners of the local area and explore them with my camera. They aren’t likely to be things or places I’ve never blogged about before, but this is my exploration radius now. 

Yesterday I was meeting two friends outside in Dalston, so I gathered a list of things I needed to do and buy and off I went. 

Route
My route. If anyone knows how to just draw a line without all the external stuff, let me know!

Sandringham Road is opposite my flat and goes up to Dalston, where it stops. Along the way there are historical and older parts, and the council buildings – houses mostly but some flats. It’s residential until you reach the top, where there are a few cafes and you are facing the Rio Cinema.

First stop - the Donk
My first stop was to see the Donk wall art again. I like the idea it’s in my neighbourhood on a wall that was crying out for something

St Mark’s Rise is an interesting point along Sandringham Road. Its name is taken from the very large church at the corner, St Mark’s.

From Wikipedia – St. Mark’s Church: St. Mark’s is a large Victorian church primarily built in the period 1864–66 to a design by Chester Cheston. It is reputedly the largest parish church in London, larger than Southwark Cathedral, capable of hosting congregations of 1800-2000 people[12] and its great size has earned it the nickname, the “Cathedral of the East End””. The residential area around the church is also of high architectural quality and has accordingly been designated the “St. Mark’s Conservation Area”.

This seems to be another spot where there’s a lot to be learned, just a couple of minutes’ walk away. 

The Vicarage
St Mark’s Vicarage. Romantically, I’ve dreamed of living in such a warren of a house – at least that’s how I think of it

St Mark's Church
St Mark’s Church, constructed in the Early English Gothic style between 1864 and 1880. This very large church has a unique feature on the tower – a turret barometer, the only one in England and perhaps the only working one in Europe.
The view along St Marks Rise
I always look towards Independent Place, the complex where my sister rented while staying nearby. There must be history of this complex but I haven’t found it yet

Every time I take a walk and then blog, there’s a staggering amount of information and history attached to the streets I’ve casually walked along. I don’t have the time or disposition to check it all out. 

Sandringham Road has a notorious reputation of being ‘The Frontline.’ There are videos at  https://hackneyhistory.wordpress.com/2011/03/28/sandringham-road-e8-1983/ about the goings-on. We still see havoc outside sometimes but the times depicted in the video are gone. ‘Frontline was that radical political edge that talks between the black and white world. That’s where you feel safer from the police and the moral majority, but it’s also a place of real cultural activity.’ This is where the first black businesses are. And the drugs.

These days the population is mixed, perhaps a little more black, with Casablanca Caribbean restaurant at our end and Survivor and All Nations restaurants at the top. Street life can be ‘vibrant.’

Part of this landscape is the brightly painted house (number 81)  on the north side of St Mark’s church.  Leonard “Lennie” Lee painted it. He’s from South Africa but studied at Oxford. He is one of “the original East London artists and curators” and he painted his house in the 80s. https://www.ahackneyautobiography.org.uk/trails/food-and-frontline/8 has an interesting take on reactions to the changing community – in this case, Jewish to Caribbean – and one that sounds only too familiar. The Frontline had such historical importance…and I’m looking at the road right now through the leaves of the tree in front of our home.

The rainbow house at 81 Sandringham Road
The rainbow house at 81 Sandringham Road, painted in the 80s by artist Lennie Lee – in a time of racial turmoil

 

Amazing how much there is on just this one corner but I walked on towards the high street, Kingsland Road.

Construction at the top of Sandringham Road
Construction at the top of Sandringham Road. This is where a very small Tesco used to be.

The Rio is an iconic building as you reach the top of Sandringham Road. The original building was an auctioneer’s shop. The owner Clara Ludski converted it into one of London’s very first cinemas in 1909, and called it the Kingsland Palace of Animated Pictures. After the purchase of some adjoining buildings, construction began in 1913, and the Kingsland Empire opened in 1915. The Bromige Art Deco interior and exterior  was restored in 1997, and the building became Grade II listed by English Heritage in 1999. Krish and I like to go here since it’s still mostly a one-screen cinema (there’s a basement screening room, added recently) with plenty of stretching room, rarely having many audience members when we go.

Two views of the Rio Cinema, Dalston

Two views of the Rio Cinema, Dalston
Two views of the Rio Cinema, Dalston. It’s a listed building but I have no idea how it’s surviving the pandemic
Signs of the times
Signs of the times
Signs of the times
More signs – on a bus shelter
Dalston Kingsland Station
Dalston Kingsland Station on Kingsland High Street beyond the widened pavement. It’s looking old with the new apartment building behind it

Today I didn’t go into Ridley Road Market. They are restricting people from entering. That will be for another day. My aunt has memories of it being a Jewish market but these days it’s Afro Caribbean for the most part. When we first moved to Hackney, there was a bagel shop at the Kingsland Road end, and at the Turkish Food Centre there’s a star of David symbol – something else to look into – but mostly these days it’s a mixed market focusing on the black population’s tastes. The market dates from the early 1880s, like much of the more modern area. It’s been the scene of many interesting events, such as the fascist marches of 1949 and 1962.

Rough times. No more, though, or not lately!

Halal meat market at the top of Ridley Road market
Halal meat market at the top of Ridley Road market
Ridley Road Market is looking quieter than usual
Ridley Road Market is looking quieter than usual
A guarded gate before you can get into Ridley Road Market
A guarded gate before you can get into Ridley Road Market
The Kingsland Shopping Centre
With entries from Ridley Road and Kingsland Road, The Kingsland Shopping Centre never looks more than scruffy. Sainsburys, Iceland, and Superdrug are in here
Odd to socially distance in Poundland
Usually it’s bustling in here, so it’s odd to socially distance in Poundland

Inside the 'new' Dalston Junction station

Inside the 'new' Dalston Junction station
Inside the ‘new’ Dalston Junction station. This line links the North East with the South West of London
Finally going home - The Peace Mural
Finally going home – The Peace Mural was painted in 1985, created by Ray Walker. It’s a composition based on the 1983 Hackney Peace Carnival (for nuclear disarmament). It turns out that it shows the carnival passing Navarino Mansions, just a street away from here

As usual, an almost overwhelming amount of information if you dig for it. For me, and for most of my neighbours, it’s just a local walk to the shops.

2 Replies to “One of those everyday walks to Dalston?”

  1. To get rid of place names on Google Maps, there are two options that I know of. You can go to mymaps.google.com and create a new map, choosing the “simple atlas” option. It looks a little different, but shows only street names and train stations. If you’re using the regular Google Maps for searching and browsing, click on the three horizontal lines in the upper left corner and when you click on satellite view you can toggle the labels on and off. The default is “on” and it will revert to that if you leave and come back to your view. It only works on satellite view for some reason.

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