Thursday, 26 October (Day Thirty-nine)
Today was a relaxing day!
We went to Vanchiglia, just a short walk away in the Mole / university neighbourhood.
I was hungry and ran into a student hangout called La Piadonza. Here they make a flour tortilla in a press in front of you, put it on the griddle and fill it. I chose smoked salmon with something called squacquerone (I haven’t found a translation but it’s creamy) and arugula, and glad I did. It was delicious and light. A great lunch.
I love the little glimpses of the hazy Mole from these streets.
Vanchiglia on the surface looks like any other neighbourhood but it’s become trendy. There are lots of little artisan shops and cafes and I feel at home here, like it’s a sort of mini Hoxton or Shoreditch. I wonder how it will be in five years. There’s even a little circus that puts me in mind of Arnold Circus – Largo di Montebello.
It’s the time of day that shops close so we don’t get to explore inside too many. Peeking into the windows is fun anyway.
There’s a grocery store where I can pick up basil for lunch tomorrow. I love how some of the vegetables are already peeled for you. We’ve also discovered charred and roasted beets and onions that we must try before we leave.
On the way home I photograph a derelict apartment building and again I’m transported, but this time to Haggerston to the homes that were displaced by the wharf projects.
We consider going out for dinner but instead we decide that we’re going to try a tajin from one of the local Arabic eateries. It’s so friendly in there. I choose a lamb, onion and prune (well, it’s mutton really) version and the guy throws in two buns. He wants to show us his money collection and is excited to find an old two dollar bill from Canada. I struggle to explain to him that it’s out of circulation and he might be richer than he thinks!
That evening I start a doll and watch some more Mindhunter. The tajin is delicious!