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Laziness, Photo exhibits, and Foiled plans

Saturday, 28 October (Day Forty-one)

Today I meant to go to Bra but woke up feeling tired and lazy. So I went with that and stayed in Torino.

A quick visit to the market for some lunch items in the morning. I’ve discovered a bread stand in the market that sells a rye baguette, although the Italian version of rye is quite light in flavour.  I think one of the sellers must know me by now but not sure – today she winked at me when asking if I wanted my baguette cut in half, so maybe.

I love to see ‘characters in the market. This man sat with various cold meats (salume) and a pile of breadsticks, along with a bottle of wine. It wasn’t clear if he was selling or sharing!

Market character
Market character

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Chocolate! The Caffarel Factory tour

Friday 27 October (Day forty!)

I’ve been looking forward to today. We are touring the Caffarel chocolate factory!

I leave first for the coach, Krish lagging behind this morning. But all is well and soon we are off towards Pinerolo – the factory is near there in the town of Luserna San Giovanni.

It’s another hazy day – the smog level is really high – we can’t see much of the countryside as we speed past the hazy scenery.  Soon enough we are at the factory gates.

Hazy scenery to Luserna
Hazy scenery on the way to Luserna

They lead us into a room and it’s like Christmas. On the table in the centre are plates of Caffarel chocolates and biscuits.  As well, there is still and sparkling water, lemon tea and coffee. I opt for coffee and watch as the inevitable feeding frenzy sets in. People swoop on the plates like they haven’t eaten for months and everything is gone into mouths and pockets in minutes!

The room houses some lovely historical objects – tins, spoons, paintings and photographs… the history of Caffarel is fascinating.

Cocoa tin
Cocoa tin

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Trendy Vanchigilia

Thursday, 26 October (Day Thirty-nine)

Today was a relaxing day!

We went to Vanchiglia, just a short walk away in the Mole / university neighbourhood.

I was hungry and ran into a student hangout called La Piadonza. Here they make a flour tortilla in a press in front of you, put it on the griddle and fill it. I chose smoked salmon with something called  squacquerone (I haven’t found a translation but it’s creamy) and arugula, and glad I did. It was delicious and light. A great lunch.

I love the little glimpses of the hazy Mole from these streets.

Hazy Mole in Vanchiglia
Hazy Mole in Vanchiglia

Vanchiglia on the surface looks like any other neighbourhood but it’s become trendy. There are lots of little artisan shops and cafes and I feel at home here, like it’s a sort of  mini Hoxton or Shoreditch.  I wonder how it will be in five years. There’s even a little circus that puts me in mind of Arnold Circus – Largo di Montebello.
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A misty day – Vanchliglia, the Gran Madre di Dio, Santa Maria del Monte – Monte dei Cappuccini!

Wednesday, 25 October (Day Thirty-eight)

My mum told the story that, when my family first moved to the L.A. area (not far from Pasadena) they got up one day and discovered there were mountains at the bottom of the road. They had never seen them before and there they were.

Torino feels like that. If I hadn’t seen them before, I’d not know that the hill with the Basilica (Superga) and the Alps in the other direction were there. It doesn’t seem like it’s going to be less smoggy or is it just misty, any time soon. So one of these days we’re just going to have to ‘climb’ that hill to Superga and take it as it comes.

We started the day with a visit to Vanchiglia but for some reason, perhaps because we turned left instead of right… there we were at the Po again. And today the monastery up to the left of us seems to be calling our name.

Market in Vanchiglia
Market in Vanchiglia

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Park Dora – a modern Pompeii

Tuesday 24 October (Day Thirty-seven)

Today Krish wanted to show me Skatepark Dora. This land until the nineties housed the great production plants of Fiat and Michelin. The steel pylons of the structure remain. Sitting in the centre, looking around, I can’t help but think of Pompeii – another ruin. This one isn’t historic or fascinating in quite the same way so the city gave it to the people. It’s now a Skatepark, recreation area, and has a lot of wall art.

We take the number 3 tram, one of the historical lines, almost to the door. The effect of this park is eerie and stark. And it’s huge. In fact, the area the factories covered went all the way across to the other side of the major road and continued for some time.

Skatepark Dora Underpass
Skatepark Dora Underpass

On the other side are apartment buildings, new ones. And more wall art and concrete remains of the factories. There are also steel pedestrian bridges that cross all over this area.
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