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Nostalgia, Islington, Victoria Park…cheese

Monday, 16 April, 2018

Today, forty-five years ago (Yes! I mean Noooooo!) I was married. It was a very blustery, cool Toronto day.

Me in my carefully chosen wedding outfit
Me in my carefully chosen wedding outfit, 1973

There were two friends on my side, and two on John’s, at the city hall ceremony. I don’t want to say too much about it – the wedding or the dinner afterwards, or the party we threw for our friends, or the aftermath – but I do think about it every year and go over the day and the years that followed.

Back to the present.

We were waiting for Spring and then suddenly it arrived

I’m listless. I want to do something, go somewhere, although I’m unsure what or where. Spring is happening but oh so slowly. My legs hurt. I’m tired. That’s my mood. Right. There.

We did have a nice time out on Friday. We walked along Upper Street and discovered a plaque for Kate Greenaway. To my surprise I remembered that name from my mum’s books of children’s fashion and from other childhood books. She had an instantly recognisable style and it was nice to think she would have walked those same streets.

Upper Street, St Mary's Church
Upper Street, St Mary’s Church

We walked along Chapel Market as it wound down and at the pub on the corner of Penton Street I discovered a board that was quite funny.

So I investigated. The pub is called The Joker and is a nod to Islington’s most famous resident, Joseph Grimaldi. Grimaldi was a clown – the founder of the modern day clown, in fact. He was certainly the most popular entertainer of his time (1778-1837). The pub has many photos and memorabilia of clowns and also a huge (ten-foot wide) clock (THE clock from Oasis’ ‘Be Here Now’ tour). We didn’t go in but it’s now on my list.

A quick and interesting ride on the 205 bus and we ended up in Brick Lane to have a lunch at Meraz, and to buy some ghee.

The new Muretz art on Hanbury Street
The new Muretz art on Hanbury Street

My friend Alistair’s wife Julie is Canadian. She grew up in Montreal. I find her fascinating. She’s like a bright and flitting creature with good stories and a strong sense of herself.  She arrived in London and wanted to spend an afternoon with me at Victoria Park. I didn’t realise I’d be going back there for soon but the last time I went it was dull and grey and cold. On Saturday it was warm and vibrant. We visited “Uncle Tom’s Cabin” and the mural on The Morpeth Pub, then went to have a picnic.

Sitting near the duck pond, I think about my grandfather fishing in that water, putting mealworms and maggots on his hook, and me feeding the ducks with bits of bread. I wouldn’t say it feels like yesterday but I do close my eyes and imagine us there.

Everybody was enjoying the duck pond and the Pavilion Cafe
Everybody was enjoying the duck pond and the Pavilion Cafe

I want to go visit Julie in her Sussex home. Stay tuned.

And I ate the French cheese – not too impressed, I think I left it a week too long. The other cheeses continue to mature, although after piercing the guessed-at blue one I haven’t noticed any new mould growth so we shall see.

The French cheese. It never ran and I couldn't eat that rind, having seen it form
The French cheese. It never ran and I couldn’t eat that rind, having seen it form
Almost ready to eat
Almost ready to eat

 

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Hobbling into Spring, a lovely new mural, and Victoria Park

Friday, 23 March, 2018

Somehow I missed the Spring Equinox. So no photos from that day, sadly. This Spring in London reminds me more of a Toronto Spring – warm days  mixed with very cold, even snowy, days. A yoyo time and I’m so so ready for the day I can throw off the winter coat and boots.

My cheeses are worrying me. Yes, Philip and Keith both said leave them alone and they’ll be fine. They are now sitting in my fridge inside a cardboard box, on a trivet, with a cup of water to keep the humidity up. They are all covered in a grey fur (apparently normal) I have mixed up the blue and the white – was so careful to keep the labels close and then in the transfer got not-surprisingly confused. Now no idea which is which. The French cheese wouldn’t come out of the mould but when Philip suggested I turn it upside and let it fall out on its own, it did – almost immediately, ripping the bottom off. Now we just have to wait and see how it ends up!

My cheeses maturing - before the French one ripped
My cheeses maturing – before the French one (bottom left) ripped

On Wednesday I went to Leigh on Sea to see my aunt Ruth.  We ate our usual fish and chips and talked about family. It was a pleasant and mild day – the sun shone and all was right with the world.  I have yet to fix a date to see my other aunt, Kay – who is also my cousin, but that confuses everyone. My mum and dad officially met when mum’s cousin Kay married Dad’s older brother Ed. Couldn’t be easier but everyone looks stunned and mutters things like incest…um, no!

My aunt's suburban street and her usual seat
My aunt’s suburban street and her usual seat

Thursday, it was cooler again and quite grey. I put the finishing touches on another doll and I decided to take the bus to see a new mural that had been commissioned for the centenary of the vote for some UK women. But first, back to Green Papaya where I sat quietly and contemplated my life or my navel or perhaps the dish in front of me. My decision was that I prefer the Toronto version, which has the sauce served separately and uses a different type of pork – even a choice of grilled meats. However, these little breaks in my week are very important to me and it’s the best thing to eat in this neighbourhood!

Grilled belly pork at Green Papaya
Grilled belly pork at Green Papaya

The bus to Old Ford Road goes through Victoria Park, where I played as a child. There are a lot of memories but not many clear facts about this area. I don’t recall exploring as a child but instead treading the same streets many many times on the way to the market, to nursery school, to the sweet shop, going to the park, visiting my Aunt Kay’s dress factory (a treasure trove!) outside playing on the pavement, and walking down towards my maternal grandmother, Charlotte’s (Lottie’s) house (perhaps a mile away).

Today I was headed to see a mural, though. It’s on the Old Ford Road which runs adjacent to the park. A long time ago, as a child, my mother had a friend on this street. She lived in one of the tall houses, perhaps occupying one or two of the floors. She had a daughter my age and that daughter introduced me to the ‘interesting’ game of ‘doctor.’ The details are shameful and I hope no permanent damage was done! Other people’s children seemed far more experienced in such things. Always the ‘good girl,’ I’d follow along and wonder why. I still do.

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Snow in London, Bump Buddies, and a great meal at Hawksmoor

Saturday, 3 March, 2018

London has a very moderate climate. In the summer there may be a short burst of heat that’s surprising and stifling. There’s no air conditioning, indoors is as oppressive as outside, and things seem a bit surreal. The winters are mild, rarely reaching zero, and a few flakes of snow are magical, even if they don’t amount to anything.

For a few years the papers have promised ‘the worst winter ever’ – more empty promises. However, this Wednesday I woke up to a real blanket of snow. They had been calling it the Beast from the East. Beast? Well, it was definitely more than a few flakes but by Toronto standards this was slightly more than kittenish. However, the snow did keep falling, traffic was barely moving, trains didn’t run, airports were closed or chaotic – it was a Snow Day in London.

The Canadians in UK and London on Facebook had a great time making fun of the British, although they did appreciate that this country has nothing in place to deal with what would be considered quite ordinary in Canada.

 

 

It was all a good bit of fun.

I started my Bump Buddies mentor course on that first Snow Day. It was crazy getting to the place. The classroom was freezing and many of the attendees brought their children, whose schools were closed. The course is OK. Those two days we did soft subjects – Listening and Communications Skills, and Choices and Values. We start at 10am and work till noon, at which time lunch arrives. After lunch we work again until 2:30pm and then go home.

Most Londoners weren't dressed for the weather
Most Londoners weren’t dressed for the weather
Our healthy vegetarian lunch at Bump Buddies training
Our healthy vegetarian lunch at Bump Buddies training

On Wednesday night I had reserved a table at Hawksmoor Spitalfields. It was a bitter evening and, after a day at the training, I was tempted to call it off. But we bundled up and carried on.

I’ve wanted to eat there for some time but the prices are high and I’m not really into steak houses. However, Hawksmoor was having a soft launch period after renovating – Fifty percent off and I was lucky to get in under the wire. We had great service and the food was fantastic.

We chose three starters – Potted beef & bacon with Yorkshires & onion gravy, Bone marrow with onions, and Ash-baked beetroot with pickled fennel, horseradish & hazelnuts. I absolutely loved the potted beef option and could have this by itself for lunch easily! The marrow was very nice with the onions being a nice sweet contrast to the savoury, creamy marrow. The beetroot was lovely, so refreshing and like the one I’d had at Blacklock last year.

Starters at Hawksmoor
Starters at Hawksmoor – I’d go back at full price

We shared one main – Herb fed chicken – it was a lovely balance of flavours but I thought it a tiny bit dry. Still delicious, though. We also got sides – Dripping fries, Buttered English greens, and the Doddington Caesar salad. The fries were a nod to Krish. they were delicious but not special and not many of them. The greens were perfectly cooked. The salad was much bigger than I had expected and I was feeling very full but I did enjoy the presentation and taste very much.

Yes, we were almost bursting but did share a Burnt Butter ice cream scoop. This was a fantastic choice – not too much of it, not too sweet and intensely buttery and delicious. I couldn’t fault anything I ate. Beautiful!

On Shoreditch High Street
On Shoreditch High Street
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Esmeralda visits, Playing groupie in Brick Lane, the impressive St Pancras Grand, and a short visit to Broadway Market

Sunday, 25 February, 2018

Just about able to see Esmeralda, who was visiting from Bologna for the first time since 2004 or maybe 2003. I was just recovering from having  a virus but now Krish was sick and it was tough to tell if I could leave him alone or not. The day before I’d been to my mentor assessment day and then come home to find Krish in bed barely able to lift his head.

Thank God for the NHS. They advised me over the phone to get hold of the doctor, who then called me back to talk about his diagnosis and off I rushed to the drugstore before it closed. After just one double dose of antibiotics, Krish could get out of bed and inhale some steam. Relief! And some hope for the next day.

Esmeralda arrived in Dalston some time around noon and we set off pretty quickly to do some exploring.

Quick visit to the Eastern Curve Garden - Esmeralda was impressed
Quick visit to the Eastern Curve Garden – Esmeralda was impressed

No surprise that I followed my usual route. We made a quick stop at Shoreditch Church, then a peek into Leila’s, Arnold Circus and the glorious buildings on Boundary Estate.

Hard at work inside Leilla's
Hard at work inside Leilla’s
Lovely piece from Shok-1 near Redchurch Street
Lovely piece from Shok-1 near Redchurch Street

Not many photos of that area today – I was feeling better but tiring quickly. Redchurch Street looked good, Boxpark was doing its retail thing, and on down to Brick Lane, watch some salt beef beigel action and a beeline to Meraz.

I ordered what I always do – no objections from Esmeralda. What is it? The tarka dhal (I really like their version), the sag aloo (not too spicy today), tandoori lamb chops sizzling wonderfully, and Es was brave enough to ask if they’d make a small portion of chicken korma – Of course! So delicious after a week or two of rather bland food. Esmeralda was pretty happy. What was really cool was the owner, Sami, arriving and coming over to shake my hand and say he hadn’t seen me for a long time. Oh, the groupie in me!

'The usual' at Meraz
‘The usual’ at Meraz
A piece by Fanakapan on Hanbury Street
A piece by Fanakapan on Hanbury Street

Embarrassing how I love this sort of encounter and I had one more to come.

I’m a huge fan of graffiti artist, Fanakapan. His art is so well executed – the 3D images he produces are spectacular. The first one I ever saw, in Star Yard, I honestly thought was a metallic helium balloon stuck on the wall! It was totally 2D but you’d never have guessed it. When we got into Star Yard, the first thing I saw was a hideous metal shed now built into one corner! The yard will never be the same! What’s it there for? There was an artist up a ladder working on the large wall at the entry. It was difficult to make out what he was doing but then a graffiti tour guide wandered by and mentioned the word Fanakapan. When he left, I asked the man on the ladder ‘Are you Fanakapan?’ He said he was and I managed to say that I was a huge fan of his work and delighted to meet him. He came down the ladder, asking my name and shook my hand. I had seen him before but never this close up. The piece he was working on wasn’t obviously his work and wasn’t finished. We moved on.

Fanakapan working on his newest - anamorphic - piece
Fanakapan working on his newest – anamorphic – piece

Later that night, I saw a photo of the finished work. It had only appeared to be far from finished. It was in fact an amazing piece of anamorphic art – you can see it at https://www.instagram.com/p/BfgYq8JhsGm/?hl=en&taken-by=fanakapan I must go back and see if I can take it from the right angle. He let me know on Instagram what to do:

Instagram from Fanakapan
Instagram message from Fanakapan

So now you know too!

Princelet Street beauty shot
Princelet Street beauty shot

We took a quick look at Christchurch, Spitalfields Market, and Artillery Lane, then on to Liverpool Street Station to put Esmeralda on the train to Borehamwood, her next stop. Continue reading “Esmeralda visits, Playing groupie in Brick Lane, the impressive St Pancras Grand, and a short visit to Broadway Market”

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A street art walk around Commercial Street and Great Eastern Street

Wednesday, 30 January, 2018

The end of January! Did I mention how grey and dark it’s been? Yes, I have.

Today in my free time I wanted to go find the new street art pieces by Alice, one of my favourites. In view of my walking resolution, I had the route figured out to get to them and then make my way home, taking the bus after the thirty minutes were up.

Again, my map reading skills (or lack!) let me down. I wandered around on the wrong side of Commercial Street for a while, wondering where Quaker Street was.

Hoists
My journey to getting lost did take me past these houses with the old hoists at the back
Elder Street 1
Going completely the wrong way, I was on Elder Street, home to the great Huguenot weavers houses from the early eighteenth century
Elder Street door
Lovely door on Elder Street
Elder Street
The length of Elder Street
Gardners
Back on track on Commercial Street. One day I’ll go into Gardners to see if it really does just sell paper and polyethlene bags

I always feel pretty foolish when I get lost. In this case, I know I have walked along Quaker Street many times. I can even picture it but Google had to guide me to it by voice. Hanging my head in shame.

Then when I found it, I discovered a David Bowie piece and a lot of reconstruction but no Alice!

New construction
Through what I call the canyons of London, more building. This one with the characteristic pile-of-boxes look I’m seeing so much of in East London

The whole neighbourhood is painted and pasted and I could never photograph it all, although I do keep trying. It wouldn’t matter since most of the time there’ll be something painted or pasted over what I’m carefully recording – it’s a full time job.

Continue reading “A street art walk around Commercial Street and Great Eastern Street”