Santuaria della Consalata, Pingone, Burgheria and the Mozart hotel

Friday 10 November (Day Fifty-four)

Today Krish was going on a tour to Thales Aerospace and I stayed behind.  It was a lovely clear morning.

I stopped by the pasta shop to buy some ravioli. I feel like my Italian has halted and I need more practice! However, at least I can buy what I want and make myself understood. It’s vocabulary and fluency that I need to build.

I’ve decided to stop by the lovely little toy shop in the Quadrilatero and also visit the Santuaria della Consalata, since I had loved it on my very brief visit earlier.

The toy shop was chaotic as expected from the window and I had a lovely (English) chat with the owner about ‘Made in China.’ Bottom line, the items made in China are about a quarter of the price of those made in Italy, Germany or Czech. That’s a huge difference.

I went in to the Consolata and again was struck by how beautiful it was. There are several domed areas and each is different. Little chapels, a prayer area with confessionals, altars, an organ, balconies… This is a real treasure and, although I prefer plain, humble churches, this one has really caught my imagination. I wander around as quietly as I can among the people praying, and I light a candle to my mum and dad and whisper a silent thank you to them.

I head over to the little square at IV Marzo and treat myself to an ice cream. I choose lemon and sage (can’t taste the sage), and Crema d’uova. It’s delicious. I took a photo to show how very small the cups of gelato are. I haven’t ever wished they were bigger. It’s just enough for me.

Yes, I ate it all!

Up on the large dome at the Duomo that houses the shroud, I see they are hard at work, the orange construction vests contrasting with the grey of the dome and the scaffolding.

And then through the Porta Palatina, noticing the building near to the entrance. I’ve not looked at it as closely before and it’s apparently one of the oldest in the city.

Krish gets home and we have some ravioli and relax.
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More rain and changed plans

Thursday, 9 November (Day Fifty-three)

Today we thought of a plan – we would go to Lavazza to check out the bistrot (cafeteria) and see how the construction was coming along, and we’d tour the opera house – Teatro Regio. We hoped we could dodge the raindrops. It was decidedly soggy but we didn’t want to let this keep us indoors.

Bikes in the rain by the Dora
Bikes in the rain by the Dora

The Bistrot is a cafeteria within the Lavazza Complex on via Bologna. We were pretty sure that, although this is intended for Lavazza employees, the public were welcome and we were right. One of the receptionists handed us each a card where we would register the food we’d buy once upstairs.

There are some fancy looking electronic coffee machines on the main floor – one euro for a cup. Then a lobby, a lift, and stairs up to the cafeteria first floor.

Lavazza cafeteria
Lavazza cafeteria

Its like a school or hospital cafeteria in there, a sort of food court look. Two stations against the far wall that sell pizzas, pastas, and main dishes. And one central station for salads and soups. We can’t see any drinks and there is only fruit for dessert. Healthy! There is, however, a couple of self service stations for free water (still and sparkling) and a bank of bottles of olive oil and vinegar. Nothing else.

We browse around and settle on a main of grilled calamari and duchesse potatoes, and Krish has a last minute choice of a pizza with no tomato but cheese and walnuts. Then I’m intrigued by a pink vegetable soup so we pick that too.  Verdict: Not bad. Nothing to rush back for. Lavazza, perhaps you could give your employees a price break – our bill was 19.20.

Lavazza lunch
Lavazza lunch

From the window we can see they are coming along quite nicely with the garden that will stand between the cafeteria building and the offices but it won’t be done by the time to leave this city.

Lavazza construction
Lavazza construction

From here we wander into town. It’s still drizzling. Krish wants to visit the British bookstore and then we’ll look around before heading for the opera house tour.

First we go through the Parco Reale and I notice how much the terrain has changed since we first arrived.

The Mole on a rainy Fall day
The Mole on a rainy Fall day

We’re puzzled by not seeing the lights that are supposed to be between the park and Piazza Castello but will need to check this out another time since the rain has started to get a bit more serious.

The opera house has a fantastic gate and, if you’re lucky, as you walk through they will be playing opera on loudspeakers. I took a video but missed the music this time.

The rain is putting paid to doing very much so we decide to stay more or less inside – in gallerias and under porticoes until 3pm when we can buy tour tickets. It may be raining hard but Turin looks pretty good in the rain with its lovely squares and shops. And the British book store is nicely chaotic too.

Shopping under the porticoes
Shopping under the porticoes
British bookstore
British bookstore
Piazza Carignano
Piazza Carignano

Some of the stores have beautiful windows. I wonder who shops in them.

Farmacia
Farmacia
Carlo Villarboito Chocolatiere
Carlo Villarboito Chocolatiere
Ristogastronomia
Ristogastronomia
Shopping inside the Galleria San Federico
Shopping inside the Galleria San Federico

As well, Liat has told me about a grocery store, Fiorfood inside the Galleria San Federico so I go to check that out. It’s very fancy. There are several rooms with expensive food goods, as well as upstairs, a large cafe, then a dining room and kitchen on the mezzanine. It’s eye candy!

Inside the Fiorfood supermarket
Inside the Fiorfood supermarket

Walking past the Egyptian museum we see another free museum that seems to be about space and size. We now don’t have enough time to check it out but  I make a mental note in case we can squeeze it in during Monday or Tuesday.  The rain is heavier again and we’re feeling pretty damp so, although it’s now time to buy our tour tickets for the opera, we’re done! Going back to the flat to dry off and rest seems a much better idea.

I’m really not  minding that the rain forces us to relax and keep ourselves entertained after all.

 

 

Mosquitoes, Autumn in Torino, Fancy Shopping and the night lights

Wednesday, 8 November (Day Fifty-two)

A mosquito (or many) has been biting us. We’re itching and scratching and I’m swelling up in places since I sometimes have an allergic reaction. Not fun at all, Torino. Don’t your mosquitoes know their season is done? Temperatures are hovering around zero during the night. Enough!

Today was  a rainy one so we planned a circuit of the city on a few different buses.  However, in the morning we went to the market and picked up some food to last us a couple of days. I looked around for any of my Saturday rescuers but didn’t see any. I buy some smoked mozzarella, and some thin slices of veal to make Milanese. If you throw some lemon slices in the pan, they get caramelised and crunchy.  That’s what we have for lunch with a little fresh spaghetti from the local pasta shop.

Borage
Borage
Keep calm
Keep calm

Our first bus took us to an area where I really felt that autumn had arrived. I’m enjoying the smell of fallen leaves, the colours of the trees, and the different light in the sky (when there is some). The long straight streets, often lined with trees on the main thoroughfares, adds to this feeling. Winter is coming but it’s not here yet but the days are shorter – it’s dark before 6pm.
Continue reading “Mosquitoes, Autumn in Torino, Fancy Shopping and the night lights”

Superga and the Alps!

Tuesday, 7 November (Day Fifty-one)

This morning we woke to what promised to be a clearer day. The Alps and hill at Superga seemed sharper and we talked about how we could get up to the Basilica finally. There are a couple of bus routes that take you to the Sassi Superga Tranvia, described as a narrow gauge railway that climbs the side of the hill.

So after a hearty breakfast of leftover matzo ball soup, off we go, me with my foot newly strapped and looking a bit grey today.

Clear Hill at Superga
Clear Hill at Superga
Clear alps from Carlo Noe
Clear alps from Carlo Noe
Matzo ball soup for breakfast!
Matzo ball soup for breakfast!

We take the number 3 tram and then get off to explore a bit. The view from the bridge over the Po is beautiful

View along the Po
View along the Po
Close up from the Po
Close up from the Po

As we get to Sassi, the promise is holding up. The Alps look clear! We had no idea at this point how the view would improve.
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E cucina and a very nice view

Monday, 6 November (Day fifty)

Today I decided to try to go out. My bus pass will be working so I’m confident that I can abort the outing at any time.

The rain has been a bit annoying but there is a silver lining. The view from the window today was almost crystal clear. The hills and the Alps look fantastic.

The Alps are so clear
The Alps are so clear

We walk for quite a while in the end. Krish is looking for a hardware store that he saw on our last walk to the Pietro Micca museum area. First we go to the Bialetti store but, although we see some nice things, everything is made in China so that’s a no-go for Krish. Then we don’t find the other hardware store, but it’s good to be out.

There are some interesting things along the way as we explore.

Lion of Venice?
Lion of Venice?
Work relief
Work relief
Vintage Coke ad
Vintage Coke ad

As we walk along on the way home we think about getting some pasta somewhere. And then we saw a restaurant with a queue outside. People are waiting to get into a restaurant space. We can see inside that every table has an interesting basket of bread, ready to go. We bounce it back and forth and then decide that if the locals are so keen to go in, we will too!

Yes, another disappointment. The bread is OK. A server comes to explain the menu but it’s very difficult to understand so she sends over another server to talk to us in English. He’s not a lot easier to understand but we sort of do know what to get and what to do. We each order a pasta and we get one fish main. We get some sparkling water and refuse any wine.

First they bring a little starter. It’s a very small bowl of polenta with one sprig of broccoli, soft enough to cut with a fork. Not bad. The pasta, though, is very al dente. It has a creamy tomato sauce with a few pieces of eggplant and fish. It’s chewy and there’s far too much of it. Neither of us eat more than a half. The fish comes with some sweet potato, more eggplant, and a few pieces of pineapple. It’s not bad. We decide to leave without eating the dessert and Krish goes to pay the bill. I go to the bathroom and meet Krish outside.

Lunch at E Cucina
Lunch at E Cucina

He’s flustered. The bill was thirty euros and he hovers between laughter and dismay. Although we haven’t eaten everything on the fixed menus, we’ve been charged full price for this. Oh no! The only thing to do is carry on and try to let it go.

But there is a nice touch to the day. The Alps are now even clearer and the view is stunning even from the centre of town.

 

The Alps from the centre of town
The Alps from the centre of town

We have a quiet evening!