Turin – Page 5 – slightly weird

9th September 201812th September 2018

Saturday markets and Lavazza

Saturday, 8 September, 2018 28C

I’m going to start recording temperatures, for the record.

Saturday was another hot day. And, although we prefer to stay well away from the market on Saturday, there we were. And while we went there for four things, we came back with about ten. No big surprise there.

The market spilled over into Balon., where they were having a flea market. The photo I missed was the woman carrying a rather enormous package on her head. Well, I thought I got it, but it was one of those photos where you can’t see for the sun and your shot is of something entirely different. Missed!

The farmers' market much busier than on weekdays, and 50-50% higher prices too! — The farmers’ market much busier than on weekdays, and 50-50% higher prices too!

We got bok choy, damsons, my favourite expensive olives, parsley, sesame grissini, two fresh goat cheeses, sparkling water, milk, tomatoes, russian salad…could that be it?

My favourite grissini, two euros' worth — My favourite grissini, two euros’ worth

On our corner is the very-popular Galina, a seafood shop and restaurant. However, at the outside wall of the covered market is another fish shop that sells fritti misti from a side window. It’s cheaper and I like it better. Five euros for a small, eight for a large. Krish queued for a large one while I tried to stay out of the sun, and checked the haberdashery stalls along the side of the road. I wish I could find a fabric one.

The goat cheese and olives made a lovely salad, and the fritti – well, it’s deep fried and yummy. What more can I say?

Lunch - goat cheese and beet salad, fritti misti! — Lunch – goat cheese and beet salad, fritti misti!

We moved the furniture around the way we had it last year. So much more homey now. Photo to follow. And we napped. Krish suggested a walk and, wow, I didn’t feel like it but I knew I’d be glad of it once we were out there, and I was.

We walked across the river to the Lavazza complex. They’ve done some work on regulating the flow of the river and I seem to recall some elaborate machinery there last year.

The Lavazza grounds (haha) were still underway on our last visit but now they’re all finished. It’s quietly stunning. I stole this next picture from the Lavazza site. Ssshhh. (Of course it’s greener and lusher than this, with summer in full swing and everything bloomed and flourishing.)

The complex on via Bologna, which includes the modern office building, is unusually shaped, the architects describing it as a ‘cloud,’ (Krish thought it might be a coffee bean and I like his idea better) and it’s flanked by some renovated buildings, one of which was a power station and now houses the bistrot and a convention centre. Around the perimeter and through the central courtyard are green spaces. They aren’t as people-friendly as I expected when I was watching construction last year – the central ‘parkette’ (Share) is pin-neat and greenery is contained within plant oases.

At the back of the building you can see the archaeological remains through a semi-basement window, and there’s a huge employee gym.

Looking towards the Lavazza Shop. In the window the Turin Eye is reflected — Looking towards the Lavazza Shop. In the upper window the Turin Eye is reflected so you can see how close we are to the headquarters

The garden I hoped would be more people-friendly. The converted power station at the back

Checking out the archaeological remains through the window at the back

I’m not one for museums but ‘Museo’ is clearly signposted. I hope the remains are part of this, the way it seems to be laid out, labelled and with viewing platforms and stepping stones. I must do this really soon! Even the Shop looked intriguing. And, even though Krish wasn’t keen, I think I’ll head back to the bistrot and join in on this ritual too.

But there’s one thing the literature doesn’t tell you. This place smells amazing! Two areas had a strong spicy smell – reminded me of sea minerals, and another was strongly floral and vanilla-like. Each time, I tried to figure out the source of the aroma and failed. I need a Scent Detective!

I've seen very little wall art ar all this year. This was near Lavazza — I’ve seen very little wall art ar all this year. This was near Lavazza

8th September 2018

Quadrilatero and a sort of Chinatown

Thursday, 8 September, 2018

This morning Krish went to fill our BIP cards for the month and brought home some impressive shrimp from Gallina. No rain today, just a hot sun. We were going to take a bus somewhere but instead we went for a walk.

At the west corners of Piazza Repubblica there’s a sort of Chinatown. It’s not signposted as such but there are several small Chinese grocery stores and last year we even found a Chinese bakery on the north side. We also had a quite awful Chinese lunch in one place too – this time I will avoid anything of the kind without a serious recommendation, and I’ll be skeptical even then. But we do know that they sell all the dim selection we love in London!

At the southwest corner, in front of a row of Chinese stores, whole gangs of people hang out. They appear to be African, Asian, and South American and I’m not quite sure what they do there. I’ve not noticed any selling, something i’m used to on the corners of Toronto Chinatown. To be honest, it feels a bit menacing and that makes me uneasy about myself but there it is. I’ll try to think of it as a Meeting Place! I took a photo really quickly, mindful of the times such photos have been followed by threats!

Always a crowd hanging out on this corner, all the way down

We wandered through the Quadrilatero. I suppose this is Torino’s version of Old Town. Unlike many European cities, Turin has a lot of straight streets intersecting each other – gridded. I’d actually say that’s one of the least attractive things about this city for me, since I’m really fond of something more maze-like.

This was a Roman area, which explains the grid. Wikipedia tells me ‘This area is still recognizable by the road structure characterized by the network of orthogonal streets, and by some important remains of the walls preserved until today. ‘ And it has that Latin quarter thing going on – clubs, restaurants, interesting little boutiques and workshops. There are some truly beautiful buildings and inner courtyards too. I’ll see it all in time.

We discovered the graffiti shop but most art around here is just scribbles

The architecture is mixed but I like the casualness of this building

There are lots of shop windows to look in. For the most part, as I already said, these Torinese aren’t masters of window display, with a few exceptions. They are pretty good at displaying food – can’t go wrong there really – but otherwise it’s a bit of a mess. The exception is with toys. The really incredible Bazar Bonino comes to mind, as well as the doll store on Via Barbaroux. This year I will buy something expensive and no hesitation.

The usual whimsical and haphazard window display

Fabulous clockwork toys at Bazar Bonino. I could spend a long time looking at the windows of this tiny place

Close to the flat, this store sells ribbons and decorations

I assume this is part of the original Roman architecture

Its not all pretty but I like the ambience. Reminds me of Porto

So much to see in the Quadrilatero. At night it’s a different place, full of music and people milling about. There’s also the Museum of Oriental Art, which I may try to see this year on a free day.

We had no real goals. We kept walking and checking out our surroundings until I saw Via Cernaia – on that street there are a few outlet stores and we are looking for a frying pan and a spatula. I walked out with a small pillow I can pick apart for the filling to make some dolls – it’s been a while – but nothing else. All the pans are the ceramic surface ones that Krish doesn’t like.

We bought four kinds of dim sum and resolved to get some vegetables from the Chinese couple who set up in the farmers’ market only on Saturdays. I hope they are still there. Tonight Krish made the aperitivo and I made a shrimp curry with the massaman curry paste we brought from London. An hour of cooking and three minutes of eating – well, of course!

7th September 20187th September 2018

Rainy days and Thursdays – why am I so tired?

Thursday, 6 September 2018

I am sleeping well. It’s a bloody miracle. Why, then, am I so tired all day? I’ve resolved to ignore it, go with the flow, and see where the day takes me.

We said we’d get to the Tabaccheria by 1, when all of Torino – well, Italy really – closes down for two or three hours, to top up our BIP cards – those are the monthly travel cards. It’s closer to 2 when we leave. And it’s raining.

My new raincoat is actually waterproof as promised but in 28 degree heat it’s also hot! We walked down the road, with overheated me taking photos but mostly in my imagination – too rainy! Past the Porta Palatina, past and through the Palazzo Reale and into the Piazza Castello to the tourist office.

Since July I’ve been trying to book a tour of the Guido Gobino chocolate factory but you need five people to do this. Emails have gone back and forth and I went from being ‘madam’ to ‘dear.’ I thought I might be able to hook up with others but so far I’ve had no luck. Then Cristina told us about the Terra Madre Salone del Gusto 2018 – it’s Torino’s food festival week starting the 20th September! Loads of food events around and during that time. And included is a Gobino tour. Finally!

But no, the tourist office tells us that there are no tours – until we explain that it’s part of the Gusto week. The light dawns! But no again! It’s fully booked. Disappointment doesn’t even describe it. Petulance is more like it. How could my now-buddy. Loredana, at Gobino not have mentioned this to me? We left.

Why do my legs hurt so much???

The rain hasn’t let up but we wander through the deserted porticoes and through the little streets checking out the shop windows. The system here seems to be throw a lot of stuff into the window, pretend this is artful, and stand back to admire. One butcher shop had a shop window full of a haphazard wooden buildings and some toys – I wasn’t quite sure what they were getting at but whatever… And the toy shop – they can arrange their windows however they like – those dolls are wonderful.

The porticoes are wet and deserted — The porticoes give shelter in the sun OR RAIN

Via Giuseppe Barbaroux. Little artisan and independent stores here

We stopped briefly in the market. The lazy mood hasn’t let up so tonight we’re trying readymade cotellette – one chicken, one veal.

At home and wrote to Loredana about the tour. I poured on the pleading – well, just a bit. What have I got to lose?

5th September 20187th September 2018

Rediscovering Torino and napping

Tuesday and Wednesday, 4 and 5 September, 2018

A good night’s sleep and the next day a slow morning. There’s something nice about going somewhere for longer than the usual week or two. There’s no need to rush to do anything. There’s plenty of time if you don’t get too lazy and this time I actually plan to be quite lazy and have some days of rest. Today seemed like a good day to do this. However, I do have to eat and eating is something that’s central to my life and travel. So…off to the market – briefly.

I now like the farmers’ market far more than the bigger market in the square. We mostly looked around to see what was being sold. Italians like to sell only what they produce themselves and this means everything is seasonal. At the beginning of September, the food looks a bit different than last year’s mid-September arrival. I bought a lettuce and some tomatoes.

The Farmers' Market at Porta Palazzo — The Farmers’ Market at Porta Palazzo

In the Mercato Orologio, we bought a pizzetta. Then we wandered a bit.

The big market at Porta Palazzo. I thought it would be fun to contrast this to last week’s photo of a pepper seller in Ridley Road

Wandering through the Galleria. It's been cleaned up and there are some outlets now — Wandering through the Galleria. It’s been cleaned up and there are some outlets now

We were amused AND horrified to see 'Burger Store' in the Piazza Reppublica — We were amused AND horrified to see ‘Burger Store’ in the Piazza Repubblica

We ordered an insalatina di polpo to go (osporto) and watched the pizza making skills in Rondini

Definitely time for a nap! It was just like the hot summer in London. Afternoon sleeps were normal and pleasant. We talked about going out for dinner but in the end we ran to the Carrefour, went to fill some bottles at the fountain and dined on package ravioli! A television night.

Continue reading “Rediscovering Torino and napping”

3rd September 20187th September 2018

Turin IV – the journey

Monday, 3 September, 2018

On Monday. we were up at 4am after a full day or two of careful packing. Krish had wanted to pack a crate of food to send along. However, after reading the shipping rules, it turned out that most of the things weren’t allowed into Italy. Back to the drawing board.

I suggested that we compromise with both the food and the clothing, etc and take what we could’t do without. For me, that would probably mean abandoning all the food but, at any rate, with some of that famous Krish tetris skills, most of it made its way into the cases I abandoned a few things, he abandoned a few things, and it all made its way across the UK, France and into Italy. Later we realised we hadn’t packed the pan we’d wanted but, all in all, pretty much a successful venture.

We left by taxi to St Pancras at 6am. Best to skip through the details of the entire trip but here are the highlights:

An enormous queue at St Pancras. We honestly thought we’d miss our train but made it on with minutes to spare. There were nervous faces all around us the whole time

A pleasure to know our way into the Paris Metro and which train to catch after last year’s charade, but the usual crowded and shabby RER train

Gare de Lyon is spacious and bright compared to Gare du Nord so we sat and rested for the couple of hours before boarding

Waiting for the RER - 9 minutes to go — Waiting for the RER – Nine minutes to go

From the Gare de Lyon - the closest view I got of Paris — From the Gare de Lyon – the closest view I got of Paris this year

The Milan train starts after you’ve walked the very long Chamberry train length. We were in the very first carriage of the Milan train so that’s a lot of walking. Phew!I knew our upgrade to first class wouldn’t amount to much and I was right. A bit more comfortable, a bit more room but still crowded, smelly (oh, that toilet!!!) and no room for bags, which were stacked several high in every spare piece of space.

We waited and waited and left fifty minutes late.

It seems the earlier train was cancelled (there’s a French rail strike) and so the people from that train were squished into ours This may not seem like a big deal but it did mean that for some reason those from the earlier train came to sit in the same seats they had booked for that time. This explained the fracas when people were non-plussed at discovering other people in their seat. I have no idea what sort of idiot thinking that is but there you are. Although warned that they should vacate and go into the Chamberry train, most elected to stay put and some were then annoyed when along the route others came in and demanding their proper seat. There are almost no words…or no polite ones

Then was the battle of the power outlets. My adapter didn’t fit into them. They were the French Euro oulets. Now, why a train that travels between France and Italy, with announcements in both languages would equip a train with French-only outlets is puzzling. It made for a long six hour journey

But make it we did. About forty minutes late but there was Cristina and we were off to what Krish was already calling ‘home.’

The balon (Eye of Torino) from the balcony tonight

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