Lunch, window shopping, and to the top of NH Santo Stefano

Tuesday, 25 September, 2018 30C

I’ve been wanting to go to the little cafe I enjoy. It’s called Cianci Piola and is in the prettiest square (in my opinion) in Torino. It feels like you’re in Paris but without the high prices and the attitude!

On the way over, I walked past some remains of the Roman wall.

At Cianci Piola, there’s always a choice of appetiser, first course, second course and dessert. I stayed with an appetiser and a pasta.

On the patio at Cianci Piola
On the patio at Cianci Piola
A traditional Piemontese appetiser - tomini (a soft cheese) al verde ( a sauce made with parsley and anchovy
A traditional Piemontese appetiser – tomini (a soft cheese) al verde ( a sauce made with parsley and anchovy (each round maybe 5cm)
The primo - tajarin with sausage and eggplant
The primo – a small bowl  of tajarin (the local pasta) with sausage and eggplant
Closer to the Duomo towards Piazza Castello
Leaving Cianci to go window shopping – the Duomo and the Campanile
Affordable fashion at OVS. This year it's all about see-through skirts
Affordable fashion at OVS. This Fall it’s all about see-through skirts

On the way back I finally climbed to the top of the NH Santo Stefano. I heard that it has the history of Torino on the walls as you climb. The pleasant surprise is that there aren’t stairs but little ledges along a spiraling ramp.

The gallery was made up of several posters, tracing the history of the city and saying where remnants of the past could still be found. I made note of several. What was interesting was that sometimes that old piece of history would be deliberately incorporated into something new – such as an old granite pillar that formed the cornerstone of a newer building. It’s like a treasure map.

The galleries along each floor of the NH Hotel
The galleries along each floor of the NH Hotel
The ledged ramp all the way up to each level. Very easy to manage
The ledged ramp all the way up to each level. Very easy to manage

On the fourth floor there’s a lift to take you up to the very top, where there’s a panoramic view.

To the right the Campanile and the Palazzo Reale, to the left the Porta Palatina
To the right the Campanile and the Palazzo Reale with its Roman wall, to the left the Porta Palatina
Lovely view towards the Market square, with the Alps in the background
Lovely view towards the Market square, with the Alps in the background
And almost home - a visit to see how Mr Fijodor's whale is coming along
And almost home – a visit to see how Mr Fijodor’s whale is coming along

More lazy hazy days…really lazy…

Saturday, 22 September, 2018 Staying around 30C

The last day of summer. The thermometer doesn’t know about that, though.  I feel lazy, like the sun is siphoning off my energy instead of energising me. So I’ll make this a pictorial … for now. Will have to say more about Terra Madre etc.

Waking up to another hazy sunrise
Waking up to another hazy sunrise
Krish was craving meat pie and so I made a Cornish pasty - first one in a long while
Krish was craving meat pie and so I made a Cornish pasty – first one in a long while
Mr Fijodor's whale art - about a week in
Mr Fijodor’s whale art – about a week in
Detail
Detail
At the base of the wall, his signature piece
At the base of the wall, his signature piece
Such a quiet day in the Cortile del Maglio. Packed on the weekend
Such a quiet day in the Cortile del Maglio. Packed on the weekend
A workshop on the periphery of the Cortile del Maglio.
A workshop on the periphery of the Cortile del Maglio.
A lazy lunch on a bright day. One of Krish's masterpieces
A lazy lunch on a bright day. One of Krish’s masterpieces
On my list - climbing the stairs of the NH Hotel to see the historic photos
On my list – climbing the stairs of the NH Hotel to see the historic photos
It's Terramadre - huge food festival in Turin. Everywhere is packed
It’s Terramadre – huge food festival in Turin. Everywhere is packed
And Via Po is so quiet
And Via Po is so quiet
Walking through the Quadrilatero at night
Walking through the Quadrilatero at night

San Salvario

Tuesday, 18 September, 2018 32C

Stupid heat. But we did go out. No goal and with our transport passes.

Waiting for a bus near Porta Nuova Station
Waiting for a bus near Porta Nuova Station

The first time I came to Torino, I didn’t get to San Salvario. I usually avoid areas around big train stations. They’re typically rough. The second time, I went with Adrianna and I really liked it. Last year I felt turned off by it somewhat. This year I felt like I didn’t care if I ever returned to the area. It’s supposed to be lively but it’s been dead. The dereliction is the dusty, neglected type. It has a general air of apathy.

Shuttered store in San Stefano
Shuttered store in San Salvario
The usual collection of bikes
The usual collection of bikes
This park, like much of San Stefano, is vaguely Parisian
This park, like much of San Salvario, is vaguely Parisian
A little paste up work
A little paste up work

So we left and headed towards the distant dome of The Mole. And then eventually we were there. We both said the same – we’ve photographed it so often, there are probably no more photos to take. Somehow, though, I doubt it.

The Mole Antonelliana
The Mole Antonelliana
News stand on Via Po
News stand on Via Po
The sleepy tram home
The sleepy tram home
Mr Fijordor's whale is progressing nicely!
Mr Fijordor’s whale is progressing nicely!
Outside the Chinese store near us some fish planned their escape
Outside the Chinese store near us some fish planned their escape. Sadly I didn’t capture the commotion or the mad flipping about

Graffiti groupie in Torino and what I had for lunch

Sunday, 16 September, 2018 30C

Today we went to the Balon flea  market but it wasn’t there! I’m puzzled since I thought it was every Sunday! Never mind. So we headed back up to the main road, Regina Margherita.

On the side of the mosque near our flat
On the side of the mosque near our flat
Haven't noticed this flat before - nicely done!
Haven’t noticed this flat before – nicely done!

At the top of the street, we saw a roughly painted whale shape on the wall and, looking a bit more, there was a guy sitting on a wooden crate – the artist? Yes! So I went to chat with him. He said his name was Fijodor. He was from somewhere else but now in Turin. Where he comes from, it’s on the French border and in that part of the Mediterranean there are whales. His theme for the wall art will be plastics and the plight of the earth. The other interesting thing was he was from the place where plastic was invented.

He gave me his card.

The outline for the whale
The outline for the whale
Mr Fijodor takes a break
Mr Fijodor takes a break

Continue reading “Graffiti groupie in Torino and what I had for lunch”

It’s too darn hot! The River Dora and Vanchiglia

Monday, 10 September, 2018 30C

It’s just too hot, but today Krish persuaded me to come out for a walk. We walked along the river for quite a while and checked out the engineering that’s been done on the Dora to divert the water and create a weir.

Coming along the road, looking south (Campanile in the background) to start our walk, which is northwards
Coming along the road, looking south (Campanile in the background) to start our walk, which is northwards to the Fiume Dora

Along the river, there’s some older and newer development. Then there’s this large, not yet tagged, Roa piece.

Art by Roa
Art by Roa
This artist does the same piece over and over in slightly different ways. I can't find out who s/he is. Torino Affonda means Torino is sinking
This artist does the same piece over and over in slightly different ways. I can’t find out who s/he is. This is new since last year. Torino Affonda means Torino is sinking – not sure if it’s done by the artist or afterwards
A fairly modern community, which overlooks the Dora
A fairly modern community, which overlooks the Dora

We headed back to Via Regina Margherita, which is the main street that runs a very long and straight way parallel to the river and directly to the south of the flat. The tram ride along it is quite wonderful, lined as it is with trees on both sides, for  miles.

We headed into Vanchiglia for a little while. Most things were closed but we checked out some supermarkets for vegetables. Seems it’s the wrong time of year. Everywhere had plenty of zucchini and that’s about it.

By now I was too hot and didn’t care about taking photos. It was also hazy so everything around us seemed shadowy. And we had the closest view yet of The Mole Antonelliana. Another, cooler, day for that! Back home before I melted!

Dim sum tonight. I miss my pans and my bamboo steamers!

The Mole, tantalisingly close but not today
The Mole, tantalisingly close, but not for today