Time Warps in London – A Singularity

Sunday, 16 January, 2022

I suppose this happens in lots of urban areas, but walking in London can feel like you have a portable time machine or a holodeck. The mass of new and even futuristic, or otherworldly, buildings have replaced old London, but only in patches. Peeking out here and there and taking over in other patches buildings from older times stubbornly remain. I recently saw a photo called Layers of London and I understood that concept. I’ve also become aware of the layers that are underneath the layers we now live in, so while buildings are now reaching towards the sky, I also think of how below me it must reach.  It all seems to live in harmony. On this Sunday I was very conscious of the harmonious contrast, then on the following day it came home to me once more. But I won’t jump ahead yet.

Krish had seen a structure from the bus that seemed worth a visit. At first we thought it was permanent, but then discovered it wouldn’t be staying so we set out to take a closer look. What he’d seen was an orb which cycles through an LED coloured sequence, called Singularity by Squidsoup – the name alone was intriguing enough. It sits in the front courtyard of a new complex called Principal Place in between Shoreditch High Street Station and Liverpool Street Station.

Map of Worship Street walk
We started at the bottom of the map – and worked our way up to the top, small turns with big results

It was a clear, cold evening and the night before the wolf moon – the full moon of January. It already looked quite full and very bright. Here in London’s financial district, a wolf moon seemed appropriate.

Principal Tower is tall for London, at 50 storeys. It’s residential, not commercial, and was completed in 2019. Principal Place office block is lower, with only 15 storeys.  Both buildings were designed by the architects Foster and Partners. We’ve been hearing a lot about Richard Rogers lately so Foster’s name is top of mind. So there’s more Star Trek going on here – Singularity. ‘8m geodesic sphere with volumetric real time LED lighting’ – so there you go. My camera didn’t do it justice, so there’s a website here where you can see what it looks like. The video there shows the depth and detail of the lovely piece. It’s hard to capture a 3D object in a 2D format. and my own photos and videos are shallow by comparison so do take a look.

We wanted to drag a chair over but the security guard said no, so we sat in one of the large wooden chairs they’re kind enough to have over to the side of the building.  The sphere, the almost-wolf moon, the clarity everywhere, and the fact we were mostly alone there made everything feel calm and reassuring. Cities have their own beauty.


The photo that didn’t work (I’m sure I took it but #fail) is the one that showed the moon framed within Singularity – that one would have been lovely, so you’ll have to imagine the contrast and harmony of that one.

In the same courtyard is another art installation of a person – like a sketch or outline for a drawing. James Burke did this giant blue steel work, which weighs 1.2 tonnes. It’s called In Anticipation since the character is stepping forward from its plinth (all difficult to see in that dark night so worth a daytime look – ‘the waiting figure appears to have descended from its plinth and is perched against it. Leaning forward expectantly with its head looking back towards the high street.


This wouldn’t be the end of the art, unsurprisingly in London and this area in particular, but there were hidden gems ahead. Once more we stepped away from the familiar and found ourselves in new territory with that mixed feeling that is surprise and ‘well, of course’ that comes with discovering streets we’ve somehow never walked down. The density is overwhelming. So I looked up the meaning of Singularity. It’s bandied about often on Star Trek but I’ve not thought much about what it meant – ‘a point at which a function takes an infinite value, especially in space–time when matter is infinitely dense, such as at the centre of a black hole.’

We thought at first we’d walk down just one street to see what was there and I was distracted by the thought that I’d never actually gone into the courtyard of Broadgate Tower. It was right in front of me now so up the stairs we went to look a bit more closely. I’ve always loved the geometric structure. It has very tall (functional) steel girders that reach diagonally – a very interesting design which was created to ‘reflect shadows and produce light that would change throughout the day.’) At night it’s dramatic.



And the old refrain of I must come back when it’s daytime. Both buildings have green credentials and I hear there’s an area for bees, birds, insects and butterflies on one tower roof, and a peregrine falcon bird box on the other. I wonder if they are open to the public.

We thought we would walk down the street towards Moorgate. We were on Worship Street. In the 1700s this was all fields apparently and was called Hog Lane. Today it’s a commercial area with warehouses, clubs and offices but also a very cool strip of listed Victorian workshops, artisan these days. Having just come from two monumentally modern and stylish steel and glass blocks, it was definitely a time warp. There was a film crew about so the buildings were obscured.  Are you tired yet of me saying I must come back? We passed lots of clubs on the ground floor of converted warehouses and there was enough of a trickle of people heading towards them to keep them open.



We were still heading towards Moorgate, but to our right we saw a forked road and suddenly the thought of seeing something we hadn’t seen before was more appealing. We decided to take the left one, Clifton Street, with more warehouses.

A fork in the road
A fork in the road – which way to go?
Shine Your Light mural
‘Shine Your Light’ mural outside Zetland House by Luke Smile. Aptly named. His artwork always gives positive messages
Zetland House was once a printing house for the Bank of England. The wall is painted by David Shillinglaw

As we passed the wall mural we thought we’d hit a dead end, but straight ahead of us was a gate. It felt a little dangerous to go through but we’d done well so far and went ahead. It wasn’t so scary once we were in there. In fact, there was a bit of a garden beside us, with another wall mural by Noir. What did seem a bit spooky was a large, gothic-looking church in a yard right ahead of us. We were both a bit surprised by it – a church that we’d never known was there before.



We walked beside Mark Street Gardens, apparently one of the youngest parks in London, created in the early 1980s. And once through, we found ourselves on Leonard Street. So many restaurants here and there, mostly closed, with an occasional pair of partyers wandering by. This was an area that we should know better but actually don’t.



When we hit Great Eastern Street, I thought about going down New Inn Yard again to get the bus home on Shoreditch High Street but instead we chose a small road ahead of us. I was totally surprised to find myself beside Blacklock on Rivington Street, which is really close to Old Street. This was accidentally a better choice and a good reminder that the density of London means my mind can place something much further away than it actually is. It was just one bus home from Old Street, a perfect accidental discovery.






And homeward it was!

Afghan Dresses and Graffiti at Brick Lane

Weds, 2 June, 2021

I really am getting out more. I’m more relaxed about how much my knee hurts while I’m out there and how much it will hurt later! That doesn’t mean I’m actually relaxed, but compared to a month ago, yes. As well, the rain and very dreary weather has pretty much eased up. We even have a sort of intermittent heatwave (which is actually a paradox). Standard moan – yeah, the flipping mask, the crutch, the bag or two, the camera, the phone, the juggling of the whole damned thing makes walking a challenge, and taking photos even more so. I take my photos in a hurry, I see things I just know stopping for to do my juggling act won’t cut it…I think to myself, if only I could just take these photos with my eyes, with my voice…and, you know what, there probably is an easier way and perhaps I need to explore that – or at least figure out why my Huawei phone doesn’t allow me to voice-activate with ‘Smile’ or ‘Cheese’ like my LG phone did. And that’s that! Krish bought me a Gimble, look it up. I know there are great opportunities with it, but I fret about how to use it and how to hold it and how to carry it around. Hmm.

I’d love to get out of my comfort zone a bit with these journeys, see somewhere or something new. At the same time, this is what I can manage, so accept the same old territory. I really do see new things, or old things with new eyes. It helps. For now, at least, I’m treading the same ground.

Anyway, I finally saw the Afghan dresses – fewer of them were displayed than I expected, but I saw them last Wednesday on the hottest day of 2021, at 27C. I went with my friend, Christine.

Bakers sculpture at 12 Widegate Street
Above Honest Burgers at 12 – 13 Widegate Street, there are four glazed sculpted panels showing the various stages of baking bread – installed in 1926. They mark the location of the Nordheim Model Bakery, which rustled up beigels and other Jewish delights for those who lived in the surrounding alleyways and beyond
Kings Stores
Kings Stores pub, 14 Widegate Street, is named because it was the site of a huge munitions store under Henry VIII. In this area is Artillery Street and Passage, as well as Gun Street

Inside Townhouse at last, we asked to see the dresses and went through to the small gallery building at the back – it’s the size of a small living room. The exhibition was smaller than expected, but the dresses were lovely. You can read what inspired the exhibit and the dresses’ owner here. I enjoyed seeing the ideas the dresses’ creators had. The mirrors, embroidery, extra braiding and stitching. I mentioned to Chris, it reminded me of the shirts I’d made Jimmy (my first real boyfriend) when I had no idea how to make clothes, but pieced them together in shapes, creating curves with my stitches and not my scissors. You could buy these pieces. They ranged around £250-350.

Townhouse interior
Townhouse is a lovely store with antiques and crafts, Fournier Street



Continue reading “Afghan Dresses and Graffiti at Brick Lane”

The days and the weeks and the months and the years go by…

Thursday, 27 April, 2021

No, it’s not really that bad. It’s not actually bad at all. I was somewhat inspired by a blog post, whose site I’ve now forgotten but I should find it, filled with all the wonderful silver linings of these past fifteen (?) months. I could seriously relate to almost all of them, and those I couldn’t relate to I’m quite sure I could substitute something of my own. Fair game!

Guilt still haunts me when I don’t blog, even though hardly anyone reads it anyway. What’s that about? Asserting my existence, emptying my mind, creating memories with words and photos, increasingly photo-derived words these days.

There’s drama outside my window, as always. Constructions big and small, the sly drug-related (?) encounters, doggie adventures, a brave daytime fox, budgies on the tree, crow attacks, the daily Ming Hai routine – we call her Ming – of opening the shutters at noon and closing them again at 10pm (Krish promises the empty air that he will go help her, even clean her little takeaway domain), and the traffic…with the advent of LTNs (low traffic neighbourhoods) schools reopening, road closures, and construction, both roads in either direction can be crammed with vehicles while we pedestrians pray for a break so that we can cross. This week I think we are back to pre-pandemic sights and sounds, just add the masks and that’s it.

And I’ve loved watching the tree slowly bud, unfurl its leaves and today it’s harder to see the shops and road opposite. Under threat of eviction, I cherish the whole thing. This is surely my last year here in this spot.


Tree phases
The tree from early April till late May

We’ve had a miserable week or two in terms of weather. Darkness, high wind, rain, hail…with only the occasional bright spell. This morning I woke up to a lovely blue sky and luminous day. I’ll take it.

Walking is still a problem for me. Friday I’m going to a physio appointment. In the past these have been useless, but I’m an optimist. I hope they have some answers, even for a temporary fix. I do walk but it’s painful, and that’s a whole other blog. I miss enjoying walking.

Meanwhile I’ve made a list of places to visit nearby with my camera. I can set aside my physical difficulties to gain some emotional perspective. It’s not just the weather that will be brighter.

Krish is still visiting Guy’s Hospital, but the schedule is now lighter and longer. Lighter is almost a play on words, since he is now having light treatment – a long journey for two very short sessions. The last time I went I had a nice little walk and rest while waiting for Krish to get his second vaccination. Longish story and includes my trip to Eataly, so how about a short blog on that? Stay tuned

Christine, who is a new friend – the one who came to Brat with me – came to Spitalfields with me. I wanted to see an exhibit of Afghan wedding dresses at The Townhouse, but we found it closed. I texted the owner, who apologised for her site being outdated, and she gave me the correct hours, so we’ll try again soon. Meanwhile, we had lunch and I took a few photos. I’m not going to lie – juggling a camera (phone or digital) and a crutch, a mask, a coat, and a shoulder purse is pretty much an Olympic event. This means either fewer steps or fewer photos, and often both.

Townhouse - antiques and gallery
Townhouse was closed. In the window a lovely cut out for the Bethnal Green Mulberry appeal (one of the very few wins for the area)

Fournier Street
Fournier Street with the Ten Bells at the corner. On the side I’m standing is Christ Church. I love the old shop signs over the new shop frontages
My snack lunch at Spitalfields Market
We had snacks at Spitalfields Market. I had eggplant – too generous for a side, and soup dumplings which had heavy-crusted bottoms. Too much for lunch so I ate half of each box and brought the rest home
Dan Kitchener's Spitalfields Geisha
After swiftly passing one of Dan Kitchener’s geishas on Commercial Street by bus many times, I managed to get a photo while waiting for my bus home

Summer in the City

Sunday, 19 July 2020

On Sunday morning, Krish brought up the idea of getting on a bus and going somewhere. He said maybe it would be quiet on the buses and we could wander around The City on a peaceful day. The City is dead out of office hours as a rule but surely now it would be even deader. I thought about it for a little while and then said yes, let’s go.

We took the 242, which goes along Kingsland Road, then turns down Commercial Street at Shoreditch High Street Station. We sailed past a very splendid new Dan Kitchener geisha art piece but stayed on until we went one more stop, where the crowd – if there is one – will have dissipated. And out we got.

We walked back a little bit to Christ Church, where I’d seen a cattle trough. I’ve taken lots of photos of the church but this time it was the trough and drinking fountain that caught my eye. The church itself was the first of three that Hawksmoor built between 1714-1729 and for me, it’s the landmark that dominates the area.

The trough and fountain are lovely. They were put there by the Metropolitan Drinking Fountain and Cattle Trough Association, set up in London during the 19th century to provide free drinking water.

 a drinking fountain and cattle trough installed by the Metropolitan Cattle Trough and Drinking Fountain Association.

A drinking fountain and cattle trough outside Christ Church, Spitalfields
A drinking fountain and cattle trough installed by the Metropolitan Cattle Trough and Drinking Fountain Association outside Christ Church, Spitalfields
Red phone box
There aren’t so many red phone boxes left and most have no phones inside or are used by the homeless. This one is pretty derelict
Art at Christ Church, Spitalfields
Art at Christ Church, Spitalfields. These two have been here a long time undisturbed

We decided to get off the main street to head towards The Gherkin. I’ve walked along Toynbee Street many times but never past Middlesex Street. We saw very few people, but there were a few stalls set up at the top near Commercial Street.

Mambow facade on Toynbee Street
On the old and crumbling street, Mambow restaurant was a very pretty sight
Past Middlesex Street, Old Castle Street
Past Middlesex Street, Toynbee Street becomes Old Castle Street and the new is crowding out the Old. Along here are some buildings belonging to the London Metropolitan University

Old Wash Houses
I had somehow never seen the facade of these old wash houses. They were originally Whitechapel Public Baths, built in the 1850s, and now housing the Frederick Parker Collection

Continue reading “Summer in the City”

More foiled plans and changes, changes, changes

Thursday, 20 February, 2020

We decided to go to Hackney Wick to see how things were progressing there. Hackney Wick is an artist’s community, with an overground station, near the Olympic Park at Stratford. It’s always been a mass of old buildings, factories, industrial parks, and warehouses and over time the artists and visitors have littered every wall, every door with art.

At one time, the art was glorious. Those days seem to be gone. A new entrance to the overground station has changed the orientation of the area and it confuses me. In the process of the change – where homes and factories have been torn down, the art has been sacrificed. As well, the old station entrance, which was always a bit of a dump, hasn’t been torn down yet. The day we arrived, we saw that several of the new buildings had been completed, the fancy office buildings, the luxury flats with names that were supposed to recall the area’s heritage – The Bagel Factory, Stonemasons Yard, Ceramic Works – they’re highly priced in this obviously deprived area. I wondered how many would just be owned rather than lived in. It made me that familiar mixture of curious, excited and sad to think about it and we cut our walk short since Krish was now motivated by the nearby Well Street Fish and Chips.






A rather ghostly and scribble-littered Hackney Wick
A rather ghostly and scribble-littered Hackney Wick – The new, the old, and the very quiet
A car crash in Hackney Wick near the estate. I didn't photograph the onlookers
A car crash in Hackney Wick near the estate. I didn’t photograph the onlookers. Notice more construction

A visit to the little Tesco and another to Lidl, then on to Vietnamese Supermarket.

We’d passed Lennox House on Cresset Road, approaching Well Street. The architectural notes read ‘These flats were built in 1936-7 to the designs of J E M MacGregor for Bethnal Green and East London Housing Association. There are 35 flats. The three bedroom flats were on the first floor, one bedroom flats on the top floor and two bedroom flats on the other levels. The original idea was that the central portion of the building beneath the stepped flats should be used as a covered market. The income from this would be used to subsidise the rents of the flats above. However, during the building period, land in the area was designated for residential use only. The Housing Association was also committed to providing a garden for each flat (apart from those on the ground floor).’ We noticed local brewery barrels on the main floor – did they brew in here, or just store the barrels? I think just store.

Lennox House, by Well Street, is a fantastic building
Lennox House, by Well Street, is a fantastic building
These balconies seem well-suited to creating the towering gardens we saw in Turin and Milan
These balconies seem well-suited to creating the towering gardens we saw in Turin and Milan
The original plaque
The original plaque
Barrels from the 40ft brewery
Barrels from the 40ft brewery- a Dalston success story
At the bottom of Cresset Road, Well Street is under construction
At the bottom of Cresset Road, Well Street is under construction – how long till this gentrifies completely?

And then, on the bus home, I discovered I didn’t have my bus pass. I looked through my entire bag and checked all my pockets. It was gone. The pass office told me that it would cost £12 to replace it but that my renewal was due to be sent out. I decided to wait and pay full price until it arrived.

I was going alone to see A Passage to India at the Tower Theatre that night so I left early and visited Lidl and the Vietnamese supermarket first – no pass had been found. I phoned the Tesco and the fish and chip shop – no pass. I was scuttled.

The play was very good. I’d seen the Masterpiece Theatre series years ago. My memory of it was nothing like the play I saw.  I enjoyed the fact actual Indian actors were playing those roles. I felt that British imperialism was probably fairly represented too. The xenophobia, the bigotry, the superior attitude, the refusal to accept something different by considering it unclean, barbaric. un-Christian so heathen…and the fear. Each side underestimated the other really. And at the end the anger was real.

A Passage to India
A Passage to India

Next, how my plans continue to be foiled! Continue reading “More foiled plans and changes, changes, changes”