Twelfth night at the Geffrye

Saturday, 6 January, 2018

Every year, at the Geffrye Museum – a museum  set in 18th century almshouses that explores the home from 1600 to the present day. It shows London living rooms and gardens and home life through the centuries, “reflecting changes in society, behaviour, style and taste” – on twelfth night 6th January, they ritually burn all of the greenery that has been used to decorate the Christmas themed rooms. The burning of the holly and the ivy is a lovely thing to watch. They add in carolling, hot cider and fruit cake before the large bonfire is built and people gather around to stare at the flames, and chat and sing.  I’ve been there many times for this ceremony.

On the 7th January this year the Geffrye is closing for two years for redevelopment. The upper floor will now be part of the museum.  Although I’ve seen the bonfire celebrations gain some recognition, this year as I approached on the other side of the road, I could tell its popularity had swelled. In fact, there were queues at each gate entry and all along the road people were still arriving or walking away in search of food until entry was easier.  I’d never seen this before.

Queues at the Geffrye
Queues at the Geffrye

The Geffrye is in Shoreditch, the far reaches of Hackney, near Old Street, and Hoxton stations. This is a trendy area with lots of night life, street art, restaurants, along with the history.  It’s also the home of Vietnamese restaurants. Not just a few, but a whole community of them stretching along Kingsland Road and Old Street.

We did have a favourite for a while. We were introduced to it by a Vietnamese couple so knew that it was the sort of food they cooked themselves and ate routinely in the Hanoi region. We’d go regularly and we had our favourite dishes – Hanoi Fish, (Chả Cá Thăng Long – turmeric fish with dill) – a dish I still make – and Buda Aubergine – eggplant steamed whole and stuffed with tofu, mung bean and seasonable vegetables.  Then it closed. Tragedy. We haven’t found a replacement, although I keep looking.

Seeing the crowds, I headed for the Green Papaya – although many were going to the very popular and crowded Song Que, trailing along the normally peaceful street .

Crowds along Kingsland Road
Crowds along Kingsland Road

Is Green Papaya a favourite, a replace for Que Viet? No! But it will do. Although it’s a very trendy cafe, with the more favoured branch being in Hackney Central, it was empty.

Pho at Green Papaya
Cheating a little, this is a pho I had the previous week – tastes good, meat cut too thick!
Grilled pork bun at Green Papaya
Today I had the ubiquitous grilled pork with vermicelli

I can’t get used to the prices of Vietnamese food here in London. The grilled pork dish is £8.50, tea is £1.50.  The pork is belly pork, so fatty. The flavour is there, though.

I once said Vietnamese food might be the one I’d choose if told I had to eat only one cuisine for the rest of my life. Perhaps. I’m coming around to Modern British though. British food has had too harsh a reputation for far too long. That’s a topic for another day! Continue reading “Twelfth night at the Geffrye”

Winter Solstice at Newington Green

Thursday, 21 December, 2017

Today was the Winter Solstice, shortest day of the year. They are indeed short days now, the sun rising around 8 and setting before 4pm

Every Solstice and Equinox for many years I’ve taken part in a Flickr photo group called Day in the Life of. It’s now called Another Day in the Life of. At any rate, I rarely miss it even if my photos of the day are all taken inside my flat. Trivia: The tag we have to use – DILO – is the source of amusement to my friends. Dilo, guys – there is no extra D in there.

I thought I’d share the photos of the time I spent in Newington Green, meeting my friend, Juliet. Let’s make it a photo essay but read to the end where I’ll put a little bit about the fascinating history of the area, first mentioned in the Doomsday book of 1086.

Appraching from Mildmay
Reflections in a pub window

Newington Green Fruit and Vegetables

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A fast visit to Spitalfields Market

Sunday, 17 December, 2017

On the run up to Christmas, there’s one place I wanted to visit and that’s Spitalfields Market. It was raining and cool but it takes only eight minutes by train from Hackney Downs, our nearest train station, to Liverpool Street, the closest station to Spitalfields. There’s so simply no excuse to stay away!

(This history: “Spitalfields takes its name from the hospital and priory, St. Mary’s Spittel that was founded in 1197. Spitalfields served as a microcosm of this polyglot society, the ‘melting pot’ fusion of east and west. Historically, it has played host to a transient community – primarily for new immigrants. From its small beginnings in the 17th Century, Spitalfields Market blossomed…trading six days a week. By 1876 the market had fallen into decline”…a former market porter called Robert Horner…started work on a new market building which was completed in 1893 at a cost of £80,000. The market moved to Leyton in 1991 but at the end of 2005 the Spitalfields regeneration programme restored the original market area. Today it’s filled with “designers / makers and artists selling fashions, homewares and accessories or a treasure trove of vintage and antique clothing, furniture and other wondrous oddments!”

Bronze Sculpture
Bronze Sculpture – must find out the story behind this

This was going to be a whirlwind visit, and I’m sure I’ll be back many times to talk more about Spitalfields but today I walked through, had some lunch, looked at some stalls and left! I was puzzled to see that so many new official looking freestanding kiosks had sprung up and wondered why they were there and if they were permanent. While I love food, I’m not happy with how so many London markets are turning into overpriced food courts.  I didn’t let this take away from the charm of this lovely market, part old, part new, always thriving as it changes  day to day.

The market was ready for Christmas. In the bottom photo a large pile of Christmas costumes was ready for who knows what to come.

I had a coupon for Wagamama so had a small lunch, or at least I thought it might be a small lunch since I chose a child’s meal. Mistake! There was too much food. The ramen was way too big for a child and was bland , flavoured only with Sriracha sauce. The hirata buns (bao) were as nice (and as tiny) as always and could have been enough! Lesson learned. Not a huge fan of Wagamama but a coupon is a coupon and the service was fast and friendly. Free lunch!


Continue reading “A fast visit to Spitalfields Market”

More rain and changed plans

Thursday, 9 November (Day Fifty-three)

Today we thought of a plan – we would go to Lavazza to check out the bistrot (cafeteria) and see how the construction was coming along, and we’d tour the opera house – Teatro Regio. We hoped we could dodge the raindrops. It was decidedly soggy but we didn’t want to let this keep us indoors.

Bikes in the rain by the Dora
Bikes in the rain by the Dora

The Bistrot is a cafeteria within the Lavazza Complex on via Bologna. We were pretty sure that, although this is intended for Lavazza employees, the public were welcome and we were right. One of the receptionists handed us each a card where we would register the food we’d buy once upstairs.

There are some fancy looking electronic coffee machines on the main floor – one euro for a cup. Then a lobby, a lift, and stairs up to the cafeteria first floor.

Lavazza cafeteria
Lavazza cafeteria

Its like a school or hospital cafeteria in there, a sort of food court look. Two stations against the far wall that sell pizzas, pastas, and main dishes. And one central station for salads and soups. We can’t see any drinks and there is only fruit for dessert. Healthy! There is, however, a couple of self service stations for free water (still and sparkling) and a bank of bottles of olive oil and vinegar. Nothing else.

We browse around and settle on a main of grilled calamari and duchesse potatoes, and Krish has a last minute choice of a pizza with no tomato but cheese and walnuts. Then I’m intrigued by a pink vegetable soup so we pick that too.  Verdict: Not bad. Nothing to rush back for. Lavazza, perhaps you could give your employees a price break – our bill was 19.20.

Lavazza lunch
Lavazza lunch

From the window we can see they are coming along quite nicely with the garden that will stand between the cafeteria building and the offices but it won’t be done by the time to leave this city.

Lavazza construction
Lavazza construction

From here we wander into town. It’s still drizzling. Krish wants to visit the British bookstore and then we’ll look around before heading for the opera house tour.

First we go through the Parco Reale and I notice how much the terrain has changed since we first arrived.

The Mole on a rainy Fall day
The Mole on a rainy Fall day

We’re puzzled by not seeing the lights that are supposed to be between the park and Piazza Castello but will need to check this out another time since the rain has started to get a bit more serious.

The opera house has a fantastic gate and, if you’re lucky, as you walk through they will be playing opera on loudspeakers. I took a video but missed the music this time.

The rain is putting paid to doing very much so we decide to stay more or less inside – in gallerias and under porticoes until 3pm when we can buy tour tickets. It may be raining hard but Turin looks pretty good in the rain with its lovely squares and shops. And the British book store is nicely chaotic too.

Shopping under the porticoes
Shopping under the porticoes
British bookstore
British bookstore
Piazza Carignano
Piazza Carignano

Some of the stores have beautiful windows. I wonder who shops in them.

Farmacia
Farmacia
Carlo Villarboito Chocolatiere
Carlo Villarboito Chocolatiere
Ristogastronomia
Ristogastronomia
Shopping inside the Galleria San Federico
Shopping inside the Galleria San Federico

As well, Liat has told me about a grocery store, Fiorfood inside the Galleria San Federico so I go to check that out. It’s very fancy. There are several rooms with expensive food goods, as well as upstairs, a large cafe, then a dining room and kitchen on the mezzanine. It’s eye candy!

Inside the Fiorfood supermarket
Inside the Fiorfood supermarket

Walking past the Egyptian museum we see another free museum that seems to be about space and size. We now don’t have enough time to check it out but  I make a mental note in case we can squeeze it in during Monday or Tuesday.  The rain is heavier again and we’re feeling pretty damp so, although it’s now time to buy our tour tickets for the opera, we’re done! Going back to the flat to dry off and rest seems a much better idea.

I’m really not  minding that the rain forces us to relax and keep ourselves entertained after all.

 

 

E cucina and a very nice view

Monday, 6 November (Day fifty)

Today I decided to try to go out. My bus pass will be working so I’m confident that I can abort the outing at any time.

The rain has been a bit annoying but there is a silver lining. The view from the window today was almost crystal clear. The hills and the Alps look fantastic.

The Alps are so clear
The Alps are so clear

We walk for quite a while in the end. Krish is looking for a hardware store that he saw on our last walk to the Pietro Micca museum area. First we go to the Bialetti store but, although we see some nice things, everything is made in China so that’s a no-go for Krish. Then we don’t find the other hardware store, but it’s good to be out.

There are some interesting things along the way as we explore.

Lion of Venice?
Lion of Venice?
Work relief
Work relief
Vintage Coke ad
Vintage Coke ad

As we walk along on the way home we think about getting some pasta somewhere. And then we saw a restaurant with a queue outside. People are waiting to get into a restaurant space. We can see inside that every table has an interesting basket of bread, ready to go. We bounce it back and forth and then decide that if the locals are so keen to go in, we will too!

Yes, another disappointment. The bread is OK. A server comes to explain the menu but it’s very difficult to understand so she sends over another server to talk to us in English. He’s not a lot easier to understand but we sort of do know what to get and what to do. We each order a pasta and we get one fish main. We get some sparkling water and refuse any wine.

First they bring a little starter. It’s a very small bowl of polenta with one sprig of broccoli, soft enough to cut with a fork. Not bad. The pasta, though, is very al dente. It has a creamy tomato sauce with a few pieces of eggplant and fish. It’s chewy and there’s far too much of it. Neither of us eat more than a half. The fish comes with some sweet potato, more eggplant, and a few pieces of pineapple. It’s not bad. We decide to leave without eating the dessert and Krish goes to pay the bill. I go to the bathroom and meet Krish outside.

Lunch at E Cucina
Lunch at E Cucina

He’s flustered. The bill was thirty euros and he hovers between laughter and dismay. Although we haven’t eaten everything on the fixed menus, we’ve been charged full price for this. Oh no! The only thing to do is carry on and try to let it go.

But there is a nice touch to the day. The Alps are now even clearer and the view is stunning even from the centre of town.

 

The Alps from the centre of town
The Alps from the centre of town

We have a quiet evening!