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Via Cernaia, The Lights

Friday, 3 November (Day Forty-seven)

The days are winding down. I’ve decided against Milan since there is still a list of things to do in Torino. I confess that one reason is I have no one to go with. I’m not usually shy about big cities no matter how gritty but for some reason, the combination of gritty city and navigating in Italian have scared me away from this plan. Hopefully there’ll be no regrets.

I read that the Pietro Micca museum is free every day and I have a bit of time to spare today so off we set. We also visit a shop where everything is made by prisoners (some nice stuff!) and a gallery of photographs showing how Torino has grown since 1995 – answer = a lot!

We walk along Via Cernaia and see it with different eyes than in our first week. The shops are quite fancy here. We pop into a store that sells British groceries – just a few – and are astounded by the price tag of 12 Euros on a box of 120 PG Tips. And here’s a jar of Patak’s Balti Paste – at 8 Euros I might have considered it earlier in the trip. Serves me right for forgetting to bring a bit for this journey. Oh well, soon enough… There’s some cool chocolate gifts in here too but we walk out emptyhanded.

The big road closest to the Pietro Micca (via Vinzaglio) is very wide and very long. I can’t see the end of it. On the sidewalk I see a reminder of Italy’s past – I wonder how many others there are. Had I seen this earlier in my adventure I’d have gone looking for them. But perhaps it’s best that I didn’t. My mood turns sombre.

Assassinato
Assassinato

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Pozzo Strada, Music Library, Corso Francia and HALLOWE’EN!

This morning I finally made my beef stew – with red wine, whole garlic, red onion wedges, thyme, and some young carrots. I taste it before we leave and am thrilled that it’s much more tender than the original too-lean meat promised.

On the way out we go along Via Milano. We used to be on this road a lot in ‘our’ old flat but haven’t gone along here too often this time. There are still things there that evoke the pure essence of Torino.

Torino Star
Torino Star
Via Milano and Piazza della Citta
Via Milano and Piazza della Citta

We went on the metro to Pozzo Strada. We had no idea what was there – we chose the station at random. Pozzo! Pozzo! Turns out it means ‘well.’ Nothing much around there – lots of low rise apartments. What was pretty cool, though, was how long and straight the road was (Roman roads here in Turin) and straight through to the Alps. Today we could see them.

Pozzo Strada
Pozzo Strada
Alps view
Alps view

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More Millos and a visit to the supermarket

Monday, 30 October (Day Forty-three)

Now the clocks have changed, I’m waking up at 5am. Nothing new there but hopefully I’ll get used to it. I have another time change to grapple with when we get back to London so we’ll see!

Today we decided to go to see some more Millo and then pick up some groceries. We have a map that shows where all the Millos are so we pick off four to the west of us and set off to the bus.

They are all in the Barriera di Milano, a mostly deprived area to the north west of us. The map shows them really clearly and in the end  the four we’ve chosen are all within very close distance of each other. Excellent! I’m feeling lazy.

Milano is interesting. There are several ethnic communities. We find a market with many Africans selling. I buy some bits of lace and some white thread as it closes. I also find a Latin American store and come close to buying tamales but they are frozen and I don’t feel like carrying the large frozen package around.

I feel somewhat uncomfortable photographing neighbourhoods that are busy with people. Sometimes the camera is unwelcome, sometimes someone will get hostile and often I feel awkward and ugly photographing something that’s obviously downtrodden. Like a rich, disinterested voyeur/anthropologist.

Barriera di Milano market
Barriera di Milano market
Barriera di Milano neighbourhood
Barriera di Milano neighbourhood

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San Salvario and a lot of fruit

Wednesday, 18 October (Day Thirty-one)

This morning I went to get a new transit pass. The clerk was pretty surly today. At first she said she couldn’t help me without my receipt, then proceeded to ‘do things’ after I said I didn’t have it and what could I do? When I thanked her, her curt response was BYE. All right, then.

I looked at stalls to find stuffing for my next dolls. No luck. But on the way there, and after feeling somewhat down after my GTT experience, I had a good morning smile. In front of me, near the market, were two elderly men both pulling along shopping carts. Not in London, nor in Toronto have I seen men pulling carts for some serious shopping. I hope the reason here wasn’t a sad one.

Shopping carts
Shopping carts

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Asti, Palazza Madama

Wednesday, 4 October (Day Seventeen)

Today I went to Asti. I’d made a list of a few places I wanted to go instead of doing one big trip and four made the list – Alba, Asti, Bra, and Ivrea. After two and a half weeks I finally was doing one of them – the closest – Asti.

We got the train from the main train station of Porto Nuovo. On our previous two visits to Torino the station was under renovation – tarpaulins, scaffolding, general massive detours. This is the first time the station has been completely finished and it’s quite a lovely building on the outside in general, with its different coloured brickwork. The tram stops are also new and clean. Inside the station, it’s not totally clear where everything is – is there a station that does this well? – but after reading the instructions online on how to get tickets etc we found it easy to show up, use the machine (with English instructions) and collect our tickets.

All the trains start here and line up nicely on the platforms – a very open set up compared to either London or Toronto. Our train is very clean with dark blue vinyl seats, enough facing forward to make us happy, and no tables or power points. But the journey is only about half an hour.

Asti is described as a very pretty medieval city, known for its wines. Like most of Italy, it claims to have very good food. I’m a city person and always sceptical about anything that’s not very urban. But this is an adventure and I’m in for anything.

I really didn’t like Asti. I was willing to try and very optimistic. I’d pictured it being pretty like the Cotswolds, with charming restaurants and markets and smiley people. It just wasn’t. It wasn’t picturesque at all. It was a small town with a modern look, mixed in with some very old areas. There were two markets – a big one where we could see mostly clothes, and later we saw a little one with half a dozen stalls selling fruit and vegetables. In the large market square they hold a horse race called the Palio. This has been happening since the 1200s and attracts a lot of visitors. That was back in September. On our travels we passed a museum devoted to this race and a man hurried out to let us in. We declined and I walked about with the guilt of refusal for hours. (I know…) I don’t like horse racing. I think it’s cruel.

Square in Asti
Square in Asti
Church on the edge of Asti
Church on the edge of Asti

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