Pictorial walk – lower Clapton and Hackney Central

Saturday, 27 January 2018

There’s a lot to see in my neighbourhood and many ways to walk towards the same point.  There’s also a ton of history – enough to probably bury me under for years so I try to pick up bits of it as I can.

Just at the end of the road is the newest Pembury Circus development. It’s built on part of the Pembury Estate.

Pembury estate has two distinct parts; Old Pembury (divided into East and West) and New Pembury. Old Pembury consists of 24 walk-up blocks dating from the 1930s. New Pembury consists of streets of maisonettes and bungalows dating from the 1960s.

In recent years some of the Pembury estate was demolished and newer buildings were constructed along the periphery, called Pembury Circus. I have no idea how much of it is affordable housing but it was the beginning of big changes in the local community. One concession to the former residents was the inclusion of the community centre on the ground floor of the largest new building. There are many community events and a cafe serving breakfasts and lunches. One of these days I want to try their chana roti.

Pembury Circus towering over the rest of the estate
Pembury Circus towering over the rest of the estate
It's kind of fun walking through this space towards the much older neighbourhood
It’s kind of fun walking through this space towards the much older neighbourhood

The 1930s part of Pembury Estate
The 1930s part of Pembury Estate
Hackney Downs
Hackney Downs

At the top of the road that borders the estate is Hackney Downs Park, which gives its name to the station and my whole neighbourhood. This is one of many Hackney borough parks.

Walking away from the park and along the top edge of the park is one favourite way to get to Lower Clapton, another area that is just starting to change into more trendy, vibrant area.

I've coveted this house on the way to Clapton for a long time. Buy it for me!
I’ve coveted this house on the way to Clapton for a long time. Buy it for me!
I'm a bit of a sucker for narrow roads! This will take me to Lower Clapton Road
I’m a bit of a sucker for narrow roads! This will take me to Lower Clapton Road
Pages of Hackney, a wonderful indie book store
Pages of Hackney, a wonderful indie book store
The historical Round Chapel in 1871, but its beginnings were in 1804
The historical Round Chapel opened in 1871, but its beginnings were in 1804

The next part of my journey is probably my favourite bit – cutting through from Lower Clapton Road to the Narroway (the upper part of Mare Street, Hackney’s main road). To get there you walk from the now abandoned Clapton Police Station and through the grounds of St. John-at-Hackney Church. It amazes me that in very urban Hackney there are pockets of land that look mostly unchanged from their pastoral beginnings.

 Some tombs in the grounds of St. John-at-Hackney Church (seen in the background)
Some tombs in the grounds of St. John-at-Hackney Church (seen in the background)

To my right is St. John-at-Hackney Church.  a very active church. the original dating from 1275. The current church building was built during the 18th century (1792). It was designed by James Spiller, who was influenced by Sir John Soane. (This a massive coincidence since I recently have been to John Soane’s museum.)  St. John does a lot for the homeless as well as hosting large musical events. Of the old church only a tower, St Augustine’s Tower (substantially rebuilt 1520), remains. The tower is open to the public once a month so I will take some photos there when I can.


St Augustine's Tower, the only remaining part of the old church
St Augustine’s Tower, the only remaining part of the old church

At this point weve reached the Narroway (Narrow Way) which is being pedestrianised. It used to be the route for buses and, trust me, with so many bus routes in Hackney with a bus station entrance at the bottom

, that didn’t make it a very fun place to walk. I won’t lie – it’s maybe the lamest shopping area around. Its redeeming quality is a small Marks & Spencer.

Pedestrianalistion still underway
Pedestrianisation still underway
Love this utility cover on the Narroway
Love this utility cover on the Narroway

 

Hackney Road and agoraphobia

Tuesday, 16 January, 2018

Yesterday I had a plan – in my free time I wanted to go to Hoxton and along Great Eastern Street to check out any new street art. I also thought about having lunch and making the most of the three of four spare hours. But when I got out, the plan collapsed.

From the age of seven, I’ve had agoraphobia. I was twenty-seven before I had a name for it but it was instantly clear that’s what it was when I read a newspaper lifestyle article about it. This was me! It’s too long a story but the short version is that I pushed and pushed to get someone to agree to my self diagnosis, and then I found the doctor who knew how to assess and treat it. It was hard work but I now consider myself recovered. Recovered like an alcoholic is recovered, only one step away from relapsing!

I cope day to day and am generally proud of myself. Then every now and again I have one of those days. Like yesterday.

Standing at the bus stop to go to Hoxton, I faltered. Butterflies in my stomach (which I know now are ectopic heartbeats) lightheaded, shakiness, feeling of fear and doom. I wanted to turn back for home but, after a good talking to myself, I decided to jump on the bus anyway and see what happened.

Bus stop at Hackney Town Hall, with the Hackney Empire behind me
Bus stop at Hackney Town Hall, with the Hackney Empire across the road

I made a compromise with myself. I’d go to the Cambridge Heath station stop and walk along Hackney Road. Having a plan (and a parachute in the form of my bus pass, mobile phone, and friendly camera) off I went and off I got at the promised spot. Once out of the bus I knew what I wanted to do – walk down one side of the road as far as Hackney City Farm and then up the other.

It was a deal! And here follow the photos.

Loretto Queen and Corgi street art
I’ve seen this Loretto from the bus many times and this is the first time I’ve stood next to it and taken the photo
Cambridge Heath graffiti alley
This alley beside the railway tracks is rich in street art but today I was alone so didn’t go down

Hackney Road street art
Hackney Road has a huge amount of street art

Hackney Road oddities
Along the way some interesting things to look at. A florist specialising in cacti and a pawnbroker’s sign outside what is now a corner bar

Continue reading “Hackney Road and agoraphobia”

A walk to Tesco – pictorial essay

Monday, 15 January, 2018

Today I woke up to a very cold, windy and wet day. The skies are dark and I’m glad I have nowhere special to go. I’ve decided to document my neighbourhood a bit by taking a walk in different directions and doing a pictorial essay.

I’m planning several so if this is not your thing, move along!

My first walk was to the Tesco supermarket yesterday and nothing could be more routine than that. Explanations in the captions under each photo.

Ground level view
Leaving the house – my window view at ground level
Curved street
Walking towards Hackney Central on my street. I love that it’s curved – somehow I always find that shape romantic
Decorated tree
This house on my street always has its tree decorated. Gives me a smile every time
Railway bridge
Towards the railway bridge. There’s another just around the corner – the two lines are close
Arches
Under the railway bridge are the ‘arches.’ with space at a premium, many businesses start up here. Sometimes they’re rough, like these body shops but often they are trendy (more of those another time)
Caribbean cuisine
A lot of Caribbean cooking in these parts. This the spot I can pick up plantain – yum!
Pembury Tavern
There’s a five point junction at the top of the street. In the centre is the refurbished 19th century Pembury Tavern. You can also some of the many buses
Shops Amhurst Road
On the other side of my street, the disappointing selection of shops, including the worst Chinese food anywhere, a burger (from frozen) joint, and a sushi place run by not-Japanese people
Gentrification
Hackney Central is slowly gentrifying. Soon everything will look like this
Old Pembury
As a contrast – on the left an old estate building and on the right an old building that has been reclad

Continue reading “A walk to Tesco – pictorial essay”

Twelfth night at the Geffrye

Saturday, 6 January, 2018

Every year, at the Geffrye Museum – a museum  set in 18th century almshouses that explores the home from 1600 to the present day. It shows London living rooms and gardens and home life through the centuries, “reflecting changes in society, behaviour, style and taste” – on twelfth night 6th January, they ritually burn all of the greenery that has been used to decorate the Christmas themed rooms. The burning of the holly and the ivy is a lovely thing to watch. They add in carolling, hot cider and fruit cake before the large bonfire is built and people gather around to stare at the flames, and chat and sing.  I’ve been there many times for this ceremony.

On the 7th January this year the Geffrye is closing for two years for redevelopment. The upper floor will now be part of the museum.  Although I’ve seen the bonfire celebrations gain some recognition, this year as I approached on the other side of the road, I could tell its popularity had swelled. In fact, there were queues at each gate entry and all along the road people were still arriving or walking away in search of food until entry was easier.  I’d never seen this before.

Queues at the Geffrye
Queues at the Geffrye

The Geffrye is in Shoreditch, the far reaches of Hackney, near Old Street, and Hoxton stations. This is a trendy area with lots of night life, street art, restaurants, along with the history.  It’s also the home of Vietnamese restaurants. Not just a few, but a whole community of them stretching along Kingsland Road and Old Street.

We did have a favourite for a while. We were introduced to it by a Vietnamese couple so knew that it was the sort of food they cooked themselves and ate routinely in the Hanoi region. We’d go regularly and we had our favourite dishes – Hanoi Fish, (Chả Cá Thăng Long – turmeric fish with dill) – a dish I still make – and Buda Aubergine – eggplant steamed whole and stuffed with tofu, mung bean and seasonable vegetables.  Then it closed. Tragedy. We haven’t found a replacement, although I keep looking.

Seeing the crowds, I headed for the Green Papaya – although many were going to the very popular and crowded Song Que, trailing along the normally peaceful street .

Crowds along Kingsland Road
Crowds along Kingsland Road

Is Green Papaya a favourite, a replace for Que Viet? No! But it will do. Although it’s a very trendy cafe, with the more favoured branch being in Hackney Central, it was empty.

Pho at Green Papaya
Cheating a little, this is a pho I had the previous week – tastes good, meat cut too thick!
Grilled pork bun at Green Papaya
Today I had the ubiquitous grilled pork with vermicelli

I can’t get used to the prices of Vietnamese food here in London. The grilled pork dish is £8.50, tea is £1.50.  The pork is belly pork, so fatty. The flavour is there, though.

I once said Vietnamese food might be the one I’d choose if told I had to eat only one cuisine for the rest of my life. Perhaps. I’m coming around to Modern British though. British food has had too harsh a reputation for far too long. That’s a topic for another day! Continue reading “Twelfth night at the Geffrye”

Winter Solstice at Newington Green

Thursday, 21 December, 2017

Today was the Winter Solstice, shortest day of the year. They are indeed short days now, the sun rising around 8 and setting before 4pm

Every Solstice and Equinox for many years I’ve taken part in a Flickr photo group called Day in the Life of. It’s now called Another Day in the Life of. At any rate, I rarely miss it even if my photos of the day are all taken inside my flat. Trivia: The tag we have to use – DILO – is the source of amusement to my friends. Dilo, guys – there is no extra D in there.

I thought I’d share the photos of the time I spent in Newington Green, meeting my friend, Juliet. Let’s make it a photo essay but read to the end where I’ll put a little bit about the fascinating history of the area, first mentioned in the Doomsday book of 1086.

Appraching from Mildmay
Reflections in a pub window

Newington Green Fruit and Vegetables

Continue reading “Winter Solstice at Newington Green”