A bit of Dalston in a pandemic

Thursday, 6 August, 2020

There are up days and there are down days. Days I have big hope and days I despair. The worst thing is fear, followed by lethargy, or maybe lethargy is the worst thing. I’ve had to face the dilemma of being an already fearful person in a genuinely fearful situation. Knowing others are in it too can be comforting but adds a layer of reality. Phobias are defined as fear out of proportion to the threat. So, yes, I find my phobic self reasserting itself more these days but ‘out of proportion’? Hmm, not sure.

I’ve heard that we agoraphobics have ‘an advantage.’ That’s because we’re already familiar with panic and the symptoms of generalised anxiety, but we’ve gathered an enormous toolkit of coping techniques that help us navigate and live our lives more fully. Well, yes and no. So I’m trying to push aside the ‘what if’ thinking and ride over the waves of fear and helplessness, because there are so many things I can still enjoy and experience. It’s just different now.

It’s Thursday and I haven’t been out since Sunday. On that day I was feeling wobbly but I went anyway. My phone and my camera were there to keep me company, and I wasn’t going very far. I did a bit more and a bit less than expected. I’d count that as a success.

My goal was to visit Gillett Square, Bradbury Street, Winchester Place and Marks and Spencer – a short itinerary on an increasingly warm day!

The little garden they built opposite
The little garden they built opposite my flat is looking a bit messy but it’s really grown
Another view of St Marks
Passing St Marks church on my way to Kingsland Road

Bradbury Street was a bit of a bust since I’d forgotten that places were closed on a Sunday. With so many shuttered fronts, I wasn’t sure if they were closed for Sunday or closed for good. I’ll have to go back and find out. For some reason, despite living in Hackney for so long and just a very short walk from Kingsland Road, Dalston, we discovered Bradbury Street only about a year ago. It’s not hidden – it’s a step away from Dalston Kingsland Station and  has its back to Gillett Square – but for some reason we hadn’t wandered along it.

Bradbury Street is a short – 110 metres long – street which is lined with restaurants either side. They’re all small and unpretentious, and only one is a chain – Honest Burgers. There’s more than a hint of the Caribbean here, and jazz, and doing your own thing. And I’ve never eaten here! I’ll come back to see what’s surviving soon, take more photos, and perhaps try the home made patty I’d seen advertised in one window a year or so ago.

Heading down Bradbury Street
Heading down Bradbury Street
Banke's Kitchen
Banke’s Kitchen was open, with one customer. It’s described variously as West African and Nigerian, and has apparently been here 26 years
House of Momo
House of Momo. I took a quick look. Momos weren’t on my list, though. It’s on the corner of Bradbury Street and Boleyn Road
Peeking down a mews at the top of Bradbury Street
Peeking down a mews at the top of Bradbury Street. The new round building is behind Dalston Kingsland Station overground station

I went in from Boleyn Road to Gillett Square.  The square was created as part of a plan to develop the Bradbury and Gillett Street by Hackney Co-operative Development and others. Started in 1998, it opened in November 2006 as the first of 100 new public spaces for London.

Stamford Works yard with a few restaurants
Stamford Works yard is at the Boleyn Road end of Gillett Square. There are a few cafes in here and the large Jones and Sons restaurant
Remants of demolition, Gillett Square
The remnants of whatever building was here. If this were a Roman wall, I’d be feeling differently. As it is, it’s a reminder that people were displaced while the developers profited
A mosaic of mirrors in Gillett Square
This mosaic of mirrors, reflecting at different angles, is a highlight in Gillett Square
Gillett Square from Boleyn Road
My back is to Boleyn Road, looking towards Kingsland Road. The square is large and there aren’t nearly as many people as you’d have seen pre-pandemic
The market pod kiosks of Gillett Square
In 1999 HCD built ten market pod kiosks along the south side, to lend it the air of a new town square here. These are normally all open
Dalston Culture House
The Dalston Culture House contains the Vortex Jazz Club. The ground floor cafe is usually busy, serving burgers. The club is struggling to survive but there are live events online. I’ve always wanted to attend a klezmer performance. Maybe now?
New 1-2 metres signs on the ground
New 1-2 metres signs on the ground
This new mural has appeared, begun in the last week of July
‘Gestures of a Square’ Mural by Li-Hill. Begun near the end of July. ‘Photos of people during this process, frequenters of the square, became the subjects of the mural.’
A few people lingered
A few people lingered. Usually there are a lot more.

If you cross Kingsland Road from Gillett Square, you hit Ridley Road Market. It’s not open on Sundays right now and is still on my list to look at more closely. However, my brother John had told me that on his Google Streetview explorations, he’d seen the Hip Hop Raised Me mural in Winchester Place. As soon as I saw it, I knew I’d seen it many times – it’s not on my Favourites List, but it’s a large piece off the main road.

Hip Hop Raised Me mural in Winchester Place
Hip Hop Raised Me - from Ridley Road Market
The  mural wraps around from Winchester Place

John had also noticed Colveston Primary School. It’s on Colveston Crescent, just off Ridley Road. It’s described as ‘a close-knit and friendly one-form entry primary’ and it looks like a little village school. It has a focus on creative arts – music, drama, art and it’s housed in a grade II listed building – I’m still chasing what makes it so, although it’s obviously a remarkable building. The railings are especially noted online but I didn’t discover this until later so missed the point.




It isn’t easy to see the whole school in one go. From across the road I’d be able to get an interrupted view, with all the fencing and railings from the market, but there was no way through, so that will have to be another day – I hope next week.

What followed was a quick trip into the not-too-busy Marks and Spencer for fruit, vegetables and a pork pie! Nothing too exciting to report. I walked through the back streets to my bus stop and then home.

Back Streets to my bus stop on Balls Pond Road
Back Streets to my bus stop on Balls Pond Road
Back on my Street
My favourite doors along my street. A chaotic and colourful welcome home

In the UK, Chancellor of the Exchequer Rishi Sunak came up with a scheme to help restaurants and encourage people to ‘dine in.’ It’s called Eat Out to Help Out. On any Monday, Tuesday, or Wednesday during August you can eat in a restaurant for 50% off to a maximum of £10 a person. We’ve talked about taking advantage of this and waver between being very interested and not interested at all. I’m still not sure we will do it. I suspect not but the month has just begun.

Christmas in July?

Friday, 17 July, 2020

Why Christmas in July? Is it that cold? Well, it has actually been quite cool up till today. We’ve even had the heat on sometimes, but today is a hot one, 27C – very warm for London. And I can’t open the window for some reason. It’s not too bad, though.

Well, see the last photo for the reason for the name of this blog entry.

I’ve taken some photos in the last few weeks so here goes with the mini stories behind them.

Duet
Two doors on what must have workers’ cottages on Seal Street or April Street, on the way to the doctor’s office. The owners of this land still have streets and areas named after them
Doctor's office
Inside the doctor’s office, gone are all the rows of chairs and instead there are some widely spaced chairs – maybe five in all. I sat alone waiting to see a doctor. The door was firmly closed and I was admitted after giving my name over the intercom, and instructed to use hand sanitiser on my way in.
Boiler repair
In the middle of a pandemic, a plumber visit is something else! Hours of sitting with a mask on, hoping he wouldn’t need to use the toilet (he did) and wondering if it was rude not to offer him a cup of tea.
It's the little things
The little things can make you smile. Like this marked down Cornish pasty that served as lunch that day. I love a bargain.
Not so distanced
Not everyone really cares about staying away from others. It’s worrying but almost heartening at the same time – looks so ‘normal.’

Continue reading “Christmas in July?”

I’m getting out a bit

Thursday, 16 July, 2020

Things can seem dire at times. Lockdown was eased up. Twice. Yet infections are rising. I get confused, decide they do what they want and it’s probably all arbitrary, but there’s nothing to do but follow my instincts and hope for the best. My instincts tell me to stay close to or at home whenever possible. No reason to do otherwise most of the time really. A few times, though, I have ventured out. Last week I even went outside of Hackney for the first time.

There doesn’t seem a lot to say either, since days blur into each other in terms of what I do and manage to achieve. However, I’m still taking photos and these remind me that life isn’t just one big Same Old Same Old after all. So let’s see where the photos take us.


This rare Victorian post (pillar) box is one of two in Stoke Newington. Stoke Newington is home to two rare hexagonal “Penfold” pillar boxes, which are Grade II listed. They are named after its designer John Wornham Penfold, and installed between 1866 and 1878. We found it on a longer walk than I’d planned back in the last days of June. While my legs weren’t happy, it was lovely to see some things I may have seen before but forgotten about.

Arabic text on house in Stoke Newington
I liked the lettering on this house near the pillar box. I need someone to translate it for me, though.
Cafe/Shop in Stoke Newington
I spotted some capers in this little shop and cafe. I also saw some great looking bread so I queued and got both.
Intrigued by the bee garden sign
I’ve meant to look into this, but the truth is that I have nowhere to plant the seeds. I love wildflowers and the idea of bees and beehives and honey, despite my fear of being stung
Eclectic shop in Stoke Newington
I’m always attracted to shops that do things like this. I think I’d like to this eclectic, this quirky, this surprising
Butterfield Green, hidden away
Butterfield Green, small and hidden away in the back streets of Stoke Newington
Homes on Church Walk
I like these houses on Church Walk, the pedestrian way with no homes opposite. It makes it feel like a secret
Allotments
We found allotments behind an iron barred fence. I’ve always wanted one but doubt I could manage it any more. I’d go for a rooftop terrace with some lovely planters full of herbs, some vegetables, and flowers. Happy!
Plaque in Newington Green
Choudhury is apparently a prolific Thai restaurateur and chef. I have yet to find out who Paulo Remedios is
No words
There are never any words for stories like this. Tragic pandemic loss of life and a beloved old cobbler shop at Newington Green
The cobbler shop
The Newington Green cobbler shop where Kamil Ahmet and his son, Ahmet Kamil, worked. They were both victims of Covid-19. The cobblers is in the oldest surviving terraced houses in London. Built in 1658, they are at 52-55 Newington Green

Continue reading “I’m getting out a bit”

Not tired of Brick Lane but what’s the future?

Wednesday, 12 February, 2020

One day I will be tired of Brick Lane. Not yet, though.

On Friday, 31st January, we thought of walking down Hackney Road that day, taking the bus from Pembury Circus and wandering down – our eventual destination the cash and carry Bangla Town by Hanbury Street. From the bus, though, we noticed so much construction that the street suddenly seemed less walkable. It wasn’t roadworks but a number of new building sites in various stages of construction. What this means is the street art and curious buildings were disappearing.

So we stayed on the bus to Columbia Road.

New construction along Hackney Road
New construction along Hackney Road
Some parts of Hackney Road are unchanged
Some parts of Hackney Road are unchanged
Columbia Road at Hackney Road
Columbia Road at Hackney Road

Perhaps another day I’ll brave Hackney Road again and see what’s left. That day opened my eyes to the increasing disappearance of the old, a microcosm – or not so micro – of London itself.

From Hackney Road we decided to walk over to Brick Lane by the back streets, taking note of all the changes and contrasts along the way.

New and old face each other in the Shoreditch back streets
New and old face each other in the Shoreditch back streets
Quiet Shoreditch is close enough to the bustle
Quiet Shoreditch is close enough to the bustle

From here, it was a less familiar view of Boundary Estate, from its easterly edge. Built as the nineteenth century merged into the twentieth, it’s stayed the same in appearance but not in its culture.

Boundary Estate is instantly recognisable
Boundary Estate is instantly recognisable – with its red brick
Still Boundary Estate - looking towards Arnold Circus
Still Boundary Estate – looking towards Arnold Circus

Once past Boundary estate, it’s time to head over to Brick Lane. The streets here are mostly unchanged but there are signs of the future – construction sites and hoardings – and shops at the top, quiet, end of Brick Lane before you hit Bethnal Green Road are getting smarter. The hipsters are very firmly in place. How will it all look in ten, or even five, years?

Rhoda Street will be next to regenerate
Rhoda Street will be next to regenerate
Close up of street art on Rhoda Street
Close up of street art on Rhoda Street
The lesser known top end of Brick Lane
The lesser known top end of Brick Lane – very quiet
Modern Bethnal Green Road at Brick Lane
Modern Bethnal Green Road at Brick Lane
Way too busy at Brick Lane Beigel
Way too busy at Brick Lane Beigel – the salt bagels were selling out
From Brick Lane, regeneration is so close
From Brick Lane, regeneration is so close
Off Brick Lane
Off Brick Lane

I may have said before that I’ve noticed a new phenomenon at Brick Lane. In most cities I’m familiar with, the ethnic ghettos are expanding. When I lived in North Beach, San Francisco, Chinatown was a short walk away. In more recent visits to North Beach, Chinatown has crept into its streets. In Toronto, Little India has started to creep along Gerrard Street so that you no longer have to go into its centre to find Indian culture. Brick Lane is changing in a different way – instead of exploding, it’s imploding. More and more non-Indian cafes and shops are opening, mingling with the Bengali and Bangladeshi businesses and threatening to overtake them.

What will happen next? When will the current residents move on, as the Huguenot, and then the Jewish immigrants have done? Where will they go? And will they be pushed out, priced out, or will they too climb out? Meanwhile, there’s still time to look around.

Cake on Brick Lane
Cake on Brick Lane – encroaching on the curry houses today
Sclater Street - demolition and hope
Sclater Street – demolition and hope
One of Dan Kitchener's geishas on Brick Lane
One of Dan Kitchener’s geishas on Brick Lane – aging
Sticker art on Brick Lane
Sticker art on Brick Lane

Once it was only Sundays that Brick Lane was busy. Then Saturdays started to become busier. Walking along that Friday, the street wasn’t so quiet. Continue reading “Not tired of Brick Lane but what’s the future?”

How to get lost in the city

Tuesday, 21 January, 2020

I had a plan for Tuesday. I had a doctor appointment and then  five hours to spare.  I wanted to go to one of the restaurants on my list – I thought perhaps Gloria, which is supposed to be a flamboyant Italian place, and from there on to Brick Lane to take some photos of new street art followed by picking up food for dinner – Krish’s favourite things. It didn’t go quite as expected.

After the doctor I jumped on the first bus that came along and then jumped off to get one that would take me where I needed to go. I chose the wrong second bus. One of these days I’ll get it right but I chose the one that turns off the main road and travels on other roads. All wasn’t lost. I jumped on a third bus and then off again when I thought I was close to where I needed to go.

No clue where I was. These buildings are anonymous and hide the landmarks
No clue where I was. These new buildings are anonymous and hide the landmarks

Except I had no idea where I was. Heading down a side street to rescue my mission, nothing looked familiar. After a couple of turns, and no idea which direction I was travelling in – there have been times in London where I actually ended up back where I started, just one wrong turn. Never mind, Google would help me out.

Hey Google, I’m lost.
Uh oh. May I give you directions.
Where is Shoreditch High Street.
Turn left onto X street.
Google, there’s no X street, only Y street.
I’m sorry, I can’t help with that.

I decided I’d overshot Gloria so would head to Rosa’s Thai. I read their Instagram faithfully. It looked good and I’d never been.

Hey Google, direct me to Rosa’s Thai Cafe.
Beginning directions to Rosey Cafe.
No, Google – (more carefully) Rosa’s Thai Cafe
Turn left onto A Street
Google, A Street isn’t here. I see B Street.
I’m sorry, I can’t help with that.

Ugh.

Oh just shut up, Google.

I resorted to old style ‘I’m lost,’ I told an older lady about to cross the street. ‘OK, where would you like to go?’ ‘Shoreditch High Street.’ ‘I don’t know…’ ‘Oh, OK, thank you.’ ‘But if you walk down there I think there’s a main road.’

I went ‘down there’ and thank goodness, Shoreditch High Street – only two short blocks away. How did she not know? I turned down Folgate Street, shocked at how much had been done since my Christmas visit, then across Commercial Street to find Rosa’s.

The top of Hanbury Street
The top of Hanbury Street
Inside Rosa's
Inside Rosa’s

It wasn’t too packed and I got a seat easily. The menu didn’t grab me and I’m not a fan of red or green Thai curry but I was hungry and tired so I thought I’d try their pad thai. It was something I knew so could measure it against the others. Quite honestly, I didn’t like it. The noodles were too soft, the chicken had a stewed texture, and the flavour was very sweet. I remembered on Nadiya’s show how she’d been shocked at the sweetness of Thai food. So perhaps it’s ‘authentic.’ And no chopsticks! Only a fork and spoon. I managed the noodles, left a lot of the chicken and I was done.

My very sweet Pad Thai
My very sweet Pad Thai

Rosa's kitchen
Rosa’s kitchen

Continue reading “How to get lost in the city”