Sneaking out of the house – Christmas Lights 2020

Sunday, 27 December, 2020

Well, here it is, almost the end of the most unusual year ever – the same year I’d anticipated back in January, thinking that 2020 must be perfect after all (a reference to vision).

We are now in our third lockdown and this is the most serious, serious enough that they created a whole new label for it – Tier 4. This means ‘you must stay home’ but it seems like quite a few aren’t listening. This is no big surprise.

Last weekend I did a lovely virtual Christmas lights tour with Look up London and really enjoyed it. I did this tour because I thought I wouldn’t be able to do one in person. However, yesterday it was a dry day and I had the idea that maybe with lockdown in place and no Boxing Day sales, just maybe I might go down and see some lights for myself. So off we went.

The bus wasn’t busy and we felt pretty safe. It was the first time I’d been into the west end since last year at Somerset House. Along the way, I was trying to remember the way – what were we going to pass by and see on what would a year ago have been a familiar journey. What follows is a great many photos, I think, with some narrative.

There were very few on the bus
There were very few on the bus, with the traffic lights lending a Christmassy feeling

There was a very light rain so things were shiny and sparkly and, with not much traffic, and not many stops requested, we sped to Tottenham Court Road in a little over 20 minutes.

James Smith & Sons
James Smith & Sons umbrella shop marks the approach to Oxford Street
Tottenham Court Road
Tottenham Court Road is unrecognisable as construction continues on the Elizabeth line

My plan was to get off near Fortnum and Mason, back over to Piccadilly Circus, up Regent Street and into Soho, Chinatown and home again. It’s much less than I’d really like to do but it’s important to allow for the journey home and not need a rest or the toilet.

To get to Fortnum and Mason, you have to go through Piccadilly Circus, and Piccadilly Circus is just about the busiest intersection in London  – that and Oxford Circus. It was less quiet and busy than usual, but still bustling compared to elsewhere. They’ve put in extra walking space and there are more bicycles than I usually see but just as many buses in the same London-narrow space.

Fortnum and Mason is a very posh place. It’s been here since 1707, and it stands for luxury. Hugh Mason ran a small store  and met an entrepreneur called William Fortnum, whose family were high class builders reinvigorating Mayfair in the wake of the Great Fire. The partnership evolved. When I can get inside again, I’ll say more. For now, I’ll just say that it’s Christmas eye candy.

This extraordinary year F&M are featuring windows from their 313 years . And most splendidly, the front of their store has become a giant advent calendar. I find the whole thing magical.




Piccadilly Street itself has the same angels that it’s had each time I’ve visited. They’re looking over a grand street in an afluent, fashionable area called Mayfair that takes its name from the May fair held in Shepherd’s Market in the area (a fantasticvstreet for another day). Here are fashionable arcades and fancy boutiques and also the Royal Academy founded in 1768 by a group of 40 artists and architects who became the first Royal Academicians. I love its gates (now closed) and courtyard.

The Royal Academy Gates
The Royal Academy Gates
Angels over Piccadilly
Angels over Piccadilly
Entrance to Burlington Arcade
Entrance to Burlington Arcade

Behind Fortnum and Mason is Jermyn Street. This area dates from 1661 and often looks the part. Sir Isaac Newton, William Pitt, Sir Walter Scott, William Gladstone; and W. M. Thackeray have all lived here. The shops along here are exclusive – mostly it was quiet, even quieter than lockdown Piccadilly today.

Beau Brummell
At the entrance to Piccadilly Arcade is this statue of Beau Brummell, an iconic figure in Regency England and for many years the arbiter of men’s fashion. I asked Krish to pose the same way behind him

This video shows the Piccadilly Arcade entrance from Jermyn Street. Very elegant.

Corner window, Piccadilly Arcade
A touch of Europe – Corner window, Piccadilly Arcade
Piccadilly Arcade from Piccadilly
Piccadilly Arcade from Piccadilly
More angels, Jermyn Street style
More angels, Jermyn Street style
Shoe lasts
An impressive display of shoe lasts at Joseph Heane’s show store on Jermyn Street
Sir Isaac Newton lived here
Sir Isaac Newton lived here

Continue reading “Sneaking out of the house – Christmas Lights 2020”

I love to make things – messy or not, here I come!

Sunday, 29 December, 2019

Quite honestly, I’m not very good at making things. This would make my friends and everyone who sees my ‘things’ laugh really. They’d tell me I’m creative and talented. I can see how that happens.

I would say, though, that I have five thumbs on each hand, or that somehow the messages from my brain don’t get all the way down to my fingers when I create. In my head is a beautiful image, which by the time it gets down to my hands becomes a muddled mess. But then I’m messy – let’s get that out in the open right now.

What I can do is make use of my mistakes. Take my dolls – the end result is good, sometimes great, because I cover up the mistakes with lace, ribbon, bits of fabric… and I smile a lot and don’t let a mistake interrupt or stop me.

And so messy becomes ‘me,’ ‘my style.’ I think or hope that people see that the end result reflects me. And yet…

I was recently interviewed by a woman who is writing a book. As far as I can tell, she is taking photos of older people and writing about them. We talked for about an hour, I told her all manner of things about me, holding very little back and at the end, it was the dolls – something I mentioned only briefly at first – that caught her attention, even though I suggested she photograph me in front of some Hackney Stik art. And so in January I’ll be taking all of my dolls to a studio where she’ll artfully display them and take my photo with the whole lot. I hate having my photo taken so we’ll see what comes of it. At any rate, her eyes lit up when she saw the colours and personalities I’d created – forget the travels, forget the search for street art and local culture, forget the foodie obsessions – this, apparently, was it!

In November I took a course on how to make rye bread. Somewhere in Dalston, down a less-travelled alley, is the Dusty Knuckle Bakery. I went one evening to their classroom, which is across the yard from the bakery/cafe, in a container. The instructor was Tomek, a somewhat serious man, who knew a lot about bread.

Tomek with Marta
Tomek with Marta

There were only three of us! A woman, her daughter, and me. This was perfect. We could each do our own thing, and the mood was unhurried and personal. Rye bread, it seems, is the simplest bread to make. We were learning the slow method, which uses a sour dough starter instead of commercial yeast. The starter at the Dusty Knuckle is called Marta. She sits in a large plastic container with a cracked lid, growing and being used to start hundreds of rye loaves. Bits of her have been shared around the students and bakers, and now a bit of her is in my fridge, waiting to be woken up when I need another loaf.

Yeast, Tomek, explained is natural and it’s everywhere. If we had special ‘yeast glasses,’ we would see yeast covering everything and it might be horrifying. So Marta picks up that natural yeast and. when fed, grows. My Marta is different than anyone else’s because it’s picked up the yeast in my environment, including from my body. If I gave some to you, it would change again. Yeast is pretty special.

We created one loaf of sour dough rye bread, one loaf of quick (soda) bread, and some thin rye crackers that use buttermilk and honey. All in three hours. I am not used to weighing on a scale or with grams, British-style, and that may be the reason that, after the sour dough loaves had risen (proved) to be ready for baking, mine was smaller than the others. I was a bit devastated. Why mine? Of course mine! Messy me strikes again. Out of the hot oven, mine was still the smallest. At home? Tasted delicious! Job done.

The dreaded scales and grams
The dreaded scales and grams
Finished dough into the tin to prove
Finished dough into the tin to prove

The classroom
The classroom
Rye soda bread
Rye soda bread
My sour dough rye at home
My sour dough rye at home

How do you make rye bread, you ask? Well, you take some starter, add rye flour, salt, and water, mix just till the flour disappears, plop the whole lot into an oiled loaf tin and you’re done! Seriously, good bread is made with flour, water and salt – that’s it. (Even the starter is made with just flour and water and allowed to ferment.)

In December I went to a Christmas wreath making workshop. I’d done the same workshop the year before and, despite how many hours it took I loved it. So I was back. It was at the Geffrye Museum – recently controversially renamed to the Museum of the Home! While the museum is being renovated and enlarged, workshops, front garden events, and almshouse visits are continuing.

Walking up to the workshop at the Museum of the Home
Walking up to the workshop at the Museum of the Home – see all the greenery waiting outside?

This year there was less greenery than before so my idea to make a wreath with some bare twigs, trailing eucalyptus and flowering branches and such, evaporated. However, I had lovely tablemates this year, Heather was her usual helpful, competent, and friendly self, there were chocolate bicuits, tea, and mince pies, and I happily – and more calmly than last year – got to it.

To create the trailing effect that I’d seen on Instagram, I chose some lighter pine in with the sturdy spruce. The messy result ensued and people must love mess based on the number who came by the table and remarked on how they were soooo going to copy my ideas. Another job done.

My finished wreath
My finished wreath

To create a wreath, you start with a wire frame and pack it tightly with live moss, which you firmly wire to create the round shape. Then you staple a plastic backing to protect your door. You take your greenery and push it firmly into the moss to create the wreath, and then add finishing touches – ornaments, ribbons, spices… Mine this year was made with spruce, pine, pine cones, artificial red berries and a subtle white and gold bow. It’s bigger than I’d planned – second time that’s been the case – but it looks good on the living room door. Continue reading “I love to make things – messy or not, here I come!”

Christmas on the Strand – too much rain, not enough time

Thursday, 12 December, 2019

The day I had to go to Somerset House, it rained…too much. It was rarely pouring but the darkness and the showers and the cold wind made it difficult to ignore and enjoy things. It felt as if even the lights and the colours struggled to assert themselves. I had imagined that, with three hours of spare time I could slowly look around – I thought maybe Bond Street and Soho would be nice – before I had to meet Susanne for dinner. When the day actually came, the most tempting thought was ‘stay home, wrap up, do nothing,’ especially when Lisa had suggested she may not make it. Bah humbug.

But off I went. I took advantage of my early arrival – once I know I’m going somewhere I just want to get out and deal with the extra time when I get there – to get a SIM card for my new phone. In Dalston the same venture had been painful the day before and I’d remained SIMless. And this was the Strand.

When I was just 17 I got a job there. The job itself was clerical and bottom of the ladder. But I was 17 and each day I’d travel in to Waterloo Station from Woking, where we’d moved one year earlier. From the station I’d walk along the South Bank – a shadow of what South Bank is today but walking along there, taking in the sights on the other side, watching the river, before arriving at the Royal Festival Hall and then going up to street level was exciting every time.

Crossing Waterloo Bridge was the low and the highlight. Low because it seemed long and, when windy or rainy, quite challenging. High because the view from up there was, and still is, the finest in London for me. To the east Saint Pauls, the power station, and Tower bridge. To the west the sweeping view towards Westminster and the Parliament Buildings. Quintessential London was spread out.

The building I worked in was at the head of the bridge, taking up the corner of Waterloo bridge and the Strand. The office was a few floors up. From my window I could see the working side of the Savoy Hotel and, on my breaks, I could go out onto the large balcony and see that east and westward view from a height. I never tired of it.

Every day I’d use a luncheon voucher, which I somehow remember might have been a couple of shillings – part of most London wages in those days, and take myself to lunch. I got in the habit of going to Lyons Corner House along the Strand and buying a tomato sandwich and a drink, which I’d take along to Trafalgar Square and eat in that wonderful setting. While the tomato sandwich was delicious, my method was to hold back some of the money from the voucher and once a week have a magnificent lunch somewhere. It seems to me most of the time this was a European cafe on the east side of the bridge, where the flavours were mysterious and fancy.

Sometimes I’d go to a cafe in what is now the touristy Covent Garden area – something with chips, perhaps egg, sausage and chips. And sometimes I’d meet my dad on Fleet Street where he’d treat me to steak, chips and mushrooms. I was grown up and ‘rich’ and acutely aware of how exciting life and this city was.

So how can I ever go to the Strand and not think about my youthful adventures there, the place where my love affair with London was cemented? (And perhaps where the seed of my love affair with food was planted.)

And yet that day, happy to be there, I also wanted to flee. Somehow I grabbed the minutes I had and did what I could with the soggy time.

The disused Strand Station
The disused Strand Station – I remember the escalator there seemed very long
I think of Simpson's as Liz's place
I think of Simpson’s as Liz’s place – roast beef and dusty decadence. It was sparkly today
There's something about a line up of buses
There’s something about a line up of buses…
In Whittards I considered all the tea but enjoyed a delicious sample of spicy chai
In Whittards I considered all the tea but enjoyed a delicious sample of spicy chai
Covent Garden's decorations were the same as last year but beautiful nonetheless
Covent Garden’s decorations were the same as last year but beautiful nonetheless
Between the Strand and Covent Garden the streets were colourful
Between the Strand and Covent Garden the streets were colourful
To be honest, none of these places live up to their gorgeous exterior promise
To be honest, none of these places live up to their gorgeous exterior promise
At Somerset House, the buildings melted into the rain - the rink hadn't opened yet and people just hung around
At Somerset House, the buildings melted into the rain – the rink hadn’t opened yet and people just hung around
Inside Somerset House, the Gingerbread City exhibit
Inside Somerset House, the Gingerbread City exhibit



A festooned door on the corner of the Strand and Aldwych
A festooned door on the corner of the Strand and Aldwych – inside it was gorgeous but I couldn’t find my way in

Instead of my planned leisurely walk around the west end, I caught a very cold bus at Aldwych and headed north and east – to The City.

Christmas Lights in London

Thursday,  27 December, 2018

There are two enduring memories of going to the west end at Christmas as a child and teenager. The beautiful windows, especially at Selfridges, and the magic of Liberty at Christmas. I’d have saved some money and off I’d go. I remember nothing of the window displays now other than they were beautiful, and so many of them. I’d always feel I could go window shopping on Oxford Street and not care if I bought a thing. The looking was even better than buying – since it was unlimited. Then Liberty always felt like a hidden treasure. Even today I know people who aren’t sure where it is or say they haven’t seen it.

This year I hadn’t made it down to the west end, ‘up west’ as they say. I made a plan to get there before the lights were turned off and I knew I couldn’t see it all in one trip. So I planned two. Part one would take me from Covent Garden to Chinatown, Soho, Regent Street, and Oxford Street. Part two would take me to Piccadilly, Bond Street, then New Bond Street, and up to Selfridges. Even then I wouldn’t see it all. No Trafalgar Square, no Marylebone…but that’s OK.

I don’t think I went to Covent Garden when I was younger. If I did, I don’t remember it. At any rate, it would have been a wholesale market and not that interesting to me. Now I know it really well and, although I put it low on my list because of the crowds of tourists, there are some things I do like about it and some shops you can’t find anywhere else – it is where the most concentrated collection of shoe shops is, so yes I do go sometimes. This time it was about the shops and the lights and the little inside courtyards I wanted to see.

At Seven Dials, and not quite dark enough to appreciate the lights
At Seven Dials, and not quite dark enough to appreciate the lights
Covent Garden Market Hall
Covent Garden Market Hall
Inside the Hall is the Apple Market
I loved the mistletoe lights
I loved the mistletoe lights
…and these large silver baubles
But the throngs of people make it a lot less magical
But the throngs of people make it a lot less magical
..so it's nice when you step outside a bit and see there's magic after all
..so it’s nice when you step outside a bit and see there’s magic after all

Inside Pollocks Toy Museum shop
Inside Pollocks Toy Museum shop

Continue reading “Christmas Lights in London”