Pictorial walk – lower Clapton and Hackney Central

Saturday, 27 January 2018

There’s a lot to see in my neighbourhood and many ways to walk towards the same point.  There’s also a ton of history – enough to probably bury me under for years so I try to pick up bits of it as I can.

Just at the end of the road is the newest Pembury Circus development. It’s built on part of the Pembury Estate.

Pembury estate has two distinct parts; Old Pembury (divided into East and West) and New Pembury. Old Pembury consists of 24 walk-up blocks dating from the 1930s. New Pembury consists of streets of maisonettes and bungalows dating from the 1960s.

In recent years some of the Pembury estate was demolished and newer buildings were constructed along the periphery, called Pembury Circus. I have no idea how much of it is affordable housing but it was the beginning of big changes in the local community. One concession to the former residents was the inclusion of the community centre on the ground floor of the largest new building. There are many community events and a cafe serving breakfasts and lunches. One of these days I want to try their chana roti.

Pembury Circus towering over the rest of the estate
Pembury Circus towering over the rest of the estate
It's kind of fun walking through this space towards the much older neighbourhood
It’s kind of fun walking through this space towards the much older neighbourhood

The 1930s part of Pembury Estate
The 1930s part of Pembury Estate
Hackney Downs
Hackney Downs

At the top of the road that borders the estate is Hackney Downs Park, which gives its name to the station and my whole neighbourhood. This is one of many Hackney borough parks.

Walking away from the park and along the top edge of the park is one favourite way to get to Lower Clapton, another area that is just starting to change into more trendy, vibrant area.

I've coveted this house on the way to Clapton for a long time. Buy it for me!
I’ve coveted this house on the way to Clapton for a long time. Buy it for me!
I'm a bit of a sucker for narrow roads! This will take me to Lower Clapton Road
I’m a bit of a sucker for narrow roads! This will take me to Lower Clapton Road
Pages of Hackney, a wonderful indie book store
Pages of Hackney, a wonderful indie book store
The historical Round Chapel in 1871, but its beginnings were in 1804
The historical Round Chapel opened in 1871, but its beginnings were in 1804

The next part of my journey is probably my favourite bit – cutting through from Lower Clapton Road to the Narroway (the upper part of Mare Street, Hackney’s main road). To get there you walk from the now abandoned Clapton Police Station and through the grounds of St. John-at-Hackney Church. It amazes me that in very urban Hackney there are pockets of land that look mostly unchanged from their pastoral beginnings.

 Some tombs in the grounds of St. John-at-Hackney Church (seen in the background)
Some tombs in the grounds of St. John-at-Hackney Church (seen in the background)

To my right is St. John-at-Hackney Church.  a very active church. the original dating from 1275. The current church building was built during the 18th century (1792). It was designed by James Spiller, who was influenced by Sir John Soane. (This a massive coincidence since I recently have been to John Soane’s museum.)  St. John does a lot for the homeless as well as hosting large musical events. Of the old church only a tower, St Augustine’s Tower (substantially rebuilt 1520), remains. The tower is open to the public once a month so I will take some photos there when I can.


St Augustine's Tower, the only remaining part of the old church
St Augustine’s Tower, the only remaining part of the old church

At this point weve reached the Narroway (Narrow Way) which is being pedestrianised. It used to be the route for buses and, trust me, with so many bus routes in Hackney with a bus station entrance at the bottom

, that didn’t make it a very fun place to walk. I won’t lie – it’s maybe the lamest shopping area around. Its redeeming quality is a small Marks & Spencer.

Pedestrianalistion still underway
Pedestrianisation still underway
Love this utility cover on the Narroway
Love this utility cover on the Narroway

 

Back to the Consolata, to Cit Turin, and the 24 Hour Carrefour

Monday, 13 November (Day Fifty-seven)

Time is winding down. As it does.

Today we decided to go to Cit Turin, the area that Liat lives in. On the way I suggested Krish pop his head into la Santuaria della Consolata I told him my photos hadn’t done it justice and I wanted him to spend one minute looking in to see it for himself.

To my surprise, he did. And to my bigger surprise, the one minute turned into more than half an hour. Not surprisingly, he discovered and was fascinated by something that I hadn’t spent much time looking at. I almost hesitate to post the photos because in a way I feel they are intimate and sacred. But I am posting a few that I found sad or interesting.

These are little portraits maybe ten centimetres across and each depicts someone’s death. As hard as I tried, I couldn’t look away until finally I needed to take a break from what I found so poignant and private.

Portraits

Portraits
Portraits of death

I’m not a Catholic and don’t really understand the significance but I’m going to look it up and ask around.
Continue reading “Back to the Consolata, to Cit Turin, and the 24 Hour Carrefour”

Santuaria della Consalata, Pingone, Burgheria and the Mozart hotel

Friday 10 November (Day Fifty-four)

Today Krish was going on a tour to Thales Aerospace and I stayed behind.  It was a lovely clear morning.

I stopped by the pasta shop to buy some ravioli. I feel like my Italian has halted and I need more practice! However, at least I can buy what I want and make myself understood. It’s vocabulary and fluency that I need to build.

I’ve decided to stop by the lovely little toy shop in the Quadrilatero and also visit the Santuaria della Consalata, since I had loved it on my very brief visit earlier.

The toy shop was chaotic as expected from the window and I had a lovely (English) chat with the owner about ‘Made in China.’ Bottom line, the items made in China are about a quarter of the price of those made in Italy, Germany or Czech. That’s a huge difference.

I went in to the Consolata and again was struck by how beautiful it was. There are several domed areas and each is different. Little chapels, a prayer area with confessionals, altars, an organ, balconies… This is a real treasure and, although I prefer plain, humble churches, this one has really caught my imagination. I wander around as quietly as I can among the people praying, and I light a candle to my mum and dad and whisper a silent thank you to them.

I head over to the little square at IV Marzo and treat myself to an ice cream. I choose lemon and sage (can’t taste the sage), and Crema d’uova. It’s delicious. I took a photo to show how very small the cups of gelato are. I haven’t ever wished they were bigger. It’s just enough for me.

Yes, I ate it all!

Up on the large dome at the Duomo that houses the shroud, I see they are hard at work, the orange construction vests contrasting with the grey of the dome and the scaffolding.

And then through the Porta Palatina, noticing the building near to the entrance. I’ve not looked at it as closely before and it’s apparently one of the oldest in the city.

Krish gets home and we have some ravioli and relax.
Continue reading “Santuaria della Consalata, Pingone, Burgheria and the Mozart hotel”

All Saints Day, Churches

Wednesday, 1 November (Day Forty-five)

Today is All Saints Day. The market and many stores are closed. And today we have no more days on our BIP card so the first order of the day is to get it filled up again. Then we plan to go see the rest of the Millo pieces in Barriera di Milano.

When we go out, we can’t find a tobacconist that’s open so we readjust our plans. We’ll stay local and visit a church we’ve seen from the tram.

It’s just a short walk away to the west of us. Along the way there are a few Chinese restaurants that we take note of. I’m feeling a bit ‘off’ today and a bowl of noodle soup sounds perfect. We even find a Chinese bakery. No 2 for a dollar bun here, though – Two euros a piece.

This area of Regina Marguerita is scruffy. People beg along here, they sell goods from shopping carts and carrier bags, and we’ve seen small gangs and individuals selling drugs. Not pretty but all part of city life.

Also to the west is Rondò della Forca (Gallows Corner). It’s a very large intersection with five roads meeting at the roundabout. Between  1835 to 1853 public hangings took place here. It’s also said to the birthplace of the square loaf – “Pancarrè” is a type of sliced bread, whose name is synonymous with “Square Bread”. Born in Turin, its origin is really special. Back in the old times, when an executioner went into a bakery to buy bread he was usually met with the resistance of the baker that was not happy to serve those who dealt in such a trade and, as a sign of contempt, would hand him the loaf upside down. Later on, this practice was banned by an ordinance, however, it was soon overtaken by bakers, who started to produce a new type of square bread, equal on each side, in order to continue undetected with their little “benevolent” custom as an inside joke (from “Alla scoperta del cibo” by Fabrizio Diolaiuti, Sperling & Kupfer).  That’s some history!

The church we’re looking for is called Maria Ausiliatrice – it’s a beauty!

Maria Ausiliatrice
Maria Ausiliatrice
Maria Ausiliatrice dome
Maria Ausiliatrice dome
Fountain for Three
Fountain for Three

Continue reading “All Saints Day, Churches”