Wandering is mostly in my mind

Saturday, 8 August, 2020

I had this little email conversation with my brother, John. He says he doesn’t have much anxiety about this crisis and, if it goes on another year he won’t mind too much. (Total paraphrase so forgive me, John.)

I can weather it, I know I can. However, John and I have very different circumstances. He lives in the Southern California suburbs, where pedestrians are few, houses are detached and at the end of their personal driveways, supermarkets are enormous barn-like affairs, his wife Liz sleeps into the mid morning while he is up with the lark for some alone time, they each have a car, and they live in a five bedroom house, with two bathrooms and two living rooms, and a front and back garden.

I think I could have less anxiety there, despite my surburbiphobia! Instead I live in a congested city where even in zone 2 I rarely see no one outside my window,  on the top floor of a terraced house which houses four sets of tenants. There’s no access to the garden and the scrap of front yard is the entrance to the lower floor flat. There’s no car but several busy buses and trains. We have two rooms – the bedroom and living room and we are home all day together.

So, as the title says, wandering is mostly in my mind. And, yes,  my mind wanders. Like the time I was in the streetcar in Toronto and looked up for a minute, completely confused about where I was and where I was going. Scared me. The doctor said, it happens. And it’s only rarely happened since.

My mind can also wander to all sorts of fabulous and frightening things. I’m switching from full doom to full ‘rosy outlook’ mode, but mostly settling in between – things are and will be different. That’s the way of the world. It’s just a bit more surreal than usual, that’s all.

But I do physically wander on the days I’m not worried so much about it. My friend Susanne has used  #walkablecity #walkableneighbourhood on her Instagram account and I am really grateful that I can echo that sentiment. Continue reading “Wandering is mostly in my mind”

Summer in the City

Sunday, 19 July 2020

On Sunday morning, Krish brought up the idea of getting on a bus and going somewhere. He said maybe it would be quiet on the buses and we could wander around The City on a peaceful day. The City is dead out of office hours as a rule but surely now it would be even deader. I thought about it for a little while and then said yes, let’s go.

We took the 242, which goes along Kingsland Road, then turns down Commercial Street at Shoreditch High Street Station. We sailed past a very splendid new Dan Kitchener geisha art piece but stayed on until we went one more stop, where the crowd – if there is one – will have dissipated. And out we got.

We walked back a little bit to Christ Church, where I’d seen a cattle trough. I’ve taken lots of photos of the church but this time it was the trough and drinking fountain that caught my eye. The church itself was the first of three that Hawksmoor built between 1714-1729 and for me, it’s the landmark that dominates the area.

The trough and fountain are lovely. They were put there by the Metropolitan Drinking Fountain and Cattle Trough Association, set up in London during the 19th century to provide free drinking water.

 a drinking fountain and cattle trough installed by the Metropolitan Cattle Trough and Drinking Fountain Association.

A drinking fountain and cattle trough outside Christ Church, Spitalfields
A drinking fountain and cattle trough installed by the Metropolitan Cattle Trough and Drinking Fountain Association outside Christ Church, Spitalfields
Red phone box
There aren’t so many red phone boxes left and most have no phones inside or are used by the homeless. This one is pretty derelict
Art at Christ Church, Spitalfields
Art at Christ Church, Spitalfields. These two have been here a long time undisturbed

We decided to get off the main street to head towards The Gherkin. I’ve walked along Toynbee Street many times but never past Middlesex Street. We saw very few people, but there were a few stalls set up at the top near Commercial Street.

Mambow facade on Toynbee Street
On the old and crumbling street, Mambow restaurant was a very pretty sight
Past Middlesex Street, Old Castle Street
Past Middlesex Street, Toynbee Street becomes Old Castle Street and the new is crowding out the Old. Along here are some buildings belonging to the London Metropolitan University

Old Wash Houses
I had somehow never seen the facade of these old wash houses. They were originally Whitechapel Public Baths, built in the 1850s, and now housing the Frederick Parker Collection

Continue reading “Summer in the City”

Where is all the rain coming from? Walk in Stoke Newington

Monday, 24 February, 2020

It just keeps raining! On Monday, Shanaz asked me if I could accompany her to a home visit for a new Bump Buddy mentee. Off I went, although not smoothly since the bus countdown app announced my bus was going to be 18 minutes late. But, of course, it did come eventually and I switched to another bus to cut the last bit of my journey down. Shanaz met me at my bus stop to tell me that, just ten minutes earlier, the person had cancelled. So instead we had tea.

I was supposed to meet Lisa after our meeting so I called and moved our meeting earlier. Lisa said she’d pick me up from in front of Whole Foods.

I haven’t walked on Stoke Newington Church Street for a little while. The rain was relentless but I just walked slowly, taking photos anyway before arriving at Whole Foods.

Stoke Newington iconic 'fruit and veg' shop
Stoke Newington iconic ‘fruit and veg’ shop
The florist is amazing but I was across the street
The florist is amazing but I was across the street unwilling to break my rainy journey
A rather nice ghost sign above Anglo Spice Grill
A rather nice ghost sign above Anglo Spice Grill, the oldest Indian restaurant in Stoke Newington. I always wonder what the sign was for
Approaching the Abney Park wall
Approaching the Abney Park wall – the building on the right must have some history
Mother Kelly's is a bottle shop
Mother Kelly’s is a bottle shop – wine refills
The best ghost sign in the area
The best ghost sign in the area – WALKER BROS, FOUNT PEN SPECIALIST. Must check on this
The usual alleyways off the main street
The usual alleyways off the main street
Violins & cellos for sale, repairs: London: Bridgewood & Neitzert - since 1982
Violins & cellos for sale, repairs: London: Bridgewood & Neitzert – since 1982
Mews cottages behind a gate
Mews cottages behind a gate
King of the Mews
King of the Mews
A glimpse of homes off Church Street
A glimpse of homes off Church Street – trendy bakery on the corner


More historical research must be done!
More historical research must be done!
The new church of St Mary's
The new church of St Mary’s cost £17,000 to build in 1852. “Stoke Newington is a funny place with lots of funny people, Thomas Jackson built a church but could not build a steeple.” The spire was added in 1890. The old church still stands opposite.

Obviously, there’s much to learn on Stoke Newington Church Street so perhaps I need to check if there’s a tour going. It seems with every little area, the history is so dense that it would take several lifetimes to uncover it all.

Meanwhile, here are two lovely old Bethnal Green pubs, seen on another walk.

The Star of Bethnal Green
Originally the White Hart, The Star of Bethnal Green dates from at least 1810
he Grade II listed Salmon & Ball
The Grade II listed Salmon & Ball proudly adorns a sign saying, ‘est. 1733’. It has a mysterious and macabre history

 

The rest

Saturday, 3 November, 2018

The last week in Torino the rains started and it was hard to find a day when it felt OK to be out. It rains in London, of course, but it’s a manageable rain – with few exceptions. In Turin the rain is incessant and heavy, with only short breaks.  We did wander, when we weren’t indoors keeping dry and slowly filling cases.

The streets of central Torino – Centro – can be grand but in between these wide boulevards are the quiet narrow streets.  Imagine this in central London – even in the back streets and alleys!

I’m also fascinated by the inner courtyards. Just off via Garibaldi there’s a courtyard that leads into other courtyards, each with its own shops and apartments and little cafes. It was raining this day and things were very quiet. It’s like a hidden oasis from the mad shoppers, who are never stopped by rain.

The Piazza San Carlo is a very grand square. Krish was amused by the statue since his favourite crisps are the San Carlo brand. He said that every time he saw the statue he needed to thank the man (is it even San Carlo?) for this taste treat. The square is used a lot for events. In this case they are getting ready for the Chocolate Festival that was taking place the week after we left. Bad timing!

The annual festival of artists’ lights was starting to take shape. We saw a few as we left. This one had projections of lacy patterns over the paving stones. It looked so pretty. In fact, Piazza Carignano is the prettiest square in Centro. If I return, I want to explore it better.


Continue reading “The rest”

Superga – what a difference a year makes!

Thursday, 25 October, 2018

Last year (7 November) we went up to Superga and were blown away by the Alpine scenery and the view of Torino below.

This year I went up alone. First, I got totally confused with the buses and, although I found a perfect bus that went all the way to the funicular, it turned out to be a coach and my BIP card wasn’t accepted on it. So I walked and walked and puzzled over the map and backtracked until I found a bus that would take me to the same spot. And of course I arrived just in time to see the hourly funicular train leave. Last time we were completely alone at that little station. This year a crowd started forming – mostly Italians, a couple of English, and a small French family.

Its not actually a funicular but was originally a little cable driven rack system train. Its name is the Sassi–Superga tramway (tranvia) and it climbs a steep grade for 3.1 km (1.9 miles) up to Superga from the Sassi area in about ten minutes. The altitude at the top is 650 m. (The basilica is a bit higher, at 672 meters above sea level.)  The railway was opened on 27 April 1884. The cable driven rack railway system uses cables that run along the side of the track and passed around two large pulleys on each side of the cars, which in turn drives the cog wheels that propel the train consisting of the driven car (occupied by the driver and a brakeman) and up to three passenger cars. This was driven by a steam engine in the upper station until 1922, when it was replaced by an electric motor. After an accident when the cables broke in 1934, work began to convert to a conventional electric rack railway using the Strub rack system and it reopened on 16 April 1935.

Revisiting this Roa art on the way to GTT Torino to take a bus that wouldn't let me on!
Revisiting this Roa art on the way to GTT Dora to take a bus that wouldn’t let me on!

On board the tranvia
On board the tranvia
At the top
At the top
View of Superga from the Tranvia exit
First view of Superga from the Tranvia exit

Review of the tranvia: Well, it’s a great experience to have done it but for more thrills and a way better view, take the bus from just to the left of the station!
Continue reading “Superga – what a difference a year makes!”