Architecture – Page 22 – slightly weird

9th September 201812th September 2018

Saturday markets and Lavazza

Saturday, 8 September, 2018 28C

I’m going to start recording temperatures, for the record.

Saturday was another hot day. And, although we prefer to stay well away from the market on Saturday, there we were. And while we went there for four things, we came back with about ten. No big surprise there.

The market spilled over into Balon., where they were having a flea market. The photo I missed was the woman carrying a rather enormous package on her head. Well, I thought I got it, but it was one of those photos where you can’t see for the sun and your shot is of something entirely different. Missed!

The farmers' market much busier than on weekdays, and 50-50% higher prices too! — The farmers’ market much busier than on weekdays, and 50-50% higher prices too!

We got bok choy, damsons, my favourite expensive olives, parsley, sesame grissini, two fresh goat cheeses, sparkling water, milk, tomatoes, russian salad…could that be it?

My favourite grissini, two euros' worth — My favourite grissini, two euros’ worth

On our corner is the very-popular Galina, a seafood shop and restaurant. However, at the outside wall of the covered market is another fish shop that sells fritti misti from a side window. It’s cheaper and I like it better. Five euros for a small, eight for a large. Krish queued for a large one while I tried to stay out of the sun, and checked the haberdashery stalls along the side of the road. I wish I could find a fabric one.

The goat cheese and olives made a lovely salad, and the fritti – well, it’s deep fried and yummy. What more can I say?

Lunch - goat cheese and beet salad, fritti misti! — Lunch – goat cheese and beet salad, fritti misti!

We moved the furniture around the way we had it last year. So much more homey now. Photo to follow. And we napped. Krish suggested a walk and, wow, I didn’t feel like it but I knew I’d be glad of it once we were out there, and I was.

We walked across the river to the Lavazza complex. They’ve done some work on regulating the flow of the river and I seem to recall some elaborate machinery there last year.

The Lavazza grounds (haha) were still underway on our last visit but now they’re all finished. It’s quietly stunning. I stole this next picture from the Lavazza site. Ssshhh. (Of course it’s greener and lusher than this, with summer in full swing and everything bloomed and flourishing.)

The complex on via Bologna, which includes the modern office building, is unusually shaped, the architects describing it as a ‘cloud,’ (Krish thought it might be a coffee bean and I like his idea better) and it’s flanked by some renovated buildings, one of which was a power station and now houses the bistrot and a convention centre. Around the perimeter and through the central courtyard are green spaces. They aren’t as people-friendly as I expected when I was watching construction last year – the central ‘parkette’ (Share) is pin-neat and greenery is contained within plant oases.

At the back of the building you can see the archaeological remains through a semi-basement window, and there’s a huge employee gym.

Looking towards the Lavazza Shop. In the window the Turin Eye is reflected — Looking towards the Lavazza Shop. In the upper window the Turin Eye is reflected so you can see how close we are to the headquarters

The garden I hoped would be more people-friendly. The converted power station at the back

Checking out the archaeological remains through the window at the back

I’m not one for museums but ‘Museo’ is clearly signposted. I hope the remains are part of this, the way it seems to be laid out, labelled and with viewing platforms and stepping stones. I must do this really soon! Even the Shop looked intriguing. And, even though Krish wasn’t keen, I think I’ll head back to the bistrot and join in on this ritual too.

But there’s one thing the literature doesn’t tell you. This place smells amazing! Two areas had a strong spicy smell – reminded me of sea minerals, and another was strongly floral and vanilla-like. Each time, I tried to figure out the source of the aroma and failed. I need a Scent Detective!

I've seen very little wall art ar all this year. This was near Lavazza — I’ve seen very little wall art ar all this year. This was near Lavazza

8th September 2018

Quadrilatero and a sort of Chinatown

Thursday, 8 September, 2018

This morning Krish went to fill our BIP cards for the month and brought home some impressive shrimp from Gallina. No rain today, just a hot sun. We were going to take a bus somewhere but instead we went for a walk.

At the west corners of Piazza Repubblica there’s a sort of Chinatown. It’s not signposted as such but there are several small Chinese grocery stores and last year we even found a Chinese bakery on the north side. We also had a quite awful Chinese lunch in one place too – this time I will avoid anything of the kind without a serious recommendation, and I’ll be skeptical even then. But we do know that they sell all the dim selection we love in London!

At the southwest corner, in front of a row of Chinese stores, whole gangs of people hang out. They appear to be African, Asian, and South American and I’m not quite sure what they do there. I’ve not noticed any selling, something i’m used to on the corners of Toronto Chinatown. To be honest, it feels a bit menacing and that makes me uneasy about myself but there it is. I’ll try to think of it as a Meeting Place! I took a photo really quickly, mindful of the times such photos have been followed by threats!

Always a crowd hanging out on this corner, all the way down

We wandered through the Quadrilatero. I suppose this is Torino’s version of Old Town. Unlike many European cities, Turin has a lot of straight streets intersecting each other – gridded. I’d actually say that’s one of the least attractive things about this city for me, since I’m really fond of something more maze-like.

This was a Roman area, which explains the grid. Wikipedia tells me ‘This area is still recognizable by the road structure characterized by the network of orthogonal streets, and by some important remains of the walls preserved until today. ‘ And it has that Latin quarter thing going on – clubs, restaurants, interesting little boutiques and workshops. There are some truly beautiful buildings and inner courtyards too. I’ll see it all in time.

We discovered the graffiti shop but most art around here is just scribbles

The architecture is mixed but I like the casualness of this building

There are lots of shop windows to look in. For the most part, as I already said, these Torinese aren’t masters of window display, with a few exceptions. They are pretty good at displaying food – can’t go wrong there really – but otherwise it’s a bit of a mess. The exception is with toys. The really incredible Bazar Bonino comes to mind, as well as the doll store on Via Barbaroux. This year I will buy something expensive and no hesitation.

The usual whimsical and haphazard window display

Fabulous clockwork toys at Bazar Bonino. I could spend a long time looking at the windows of this tiny place

Close to the flat, this store sells ribbons and decorations

I assume this is part of the original Roman architecture

Its not all pretty but I like the ambience. Reminds me of Porto

So much to see in the Quadrilatero. At night it’s a different place, full of music and people milling about. There’s also the Museum of Oriental Art, which I may try to see this year on a free day.

We had no real goals. We kept walking and checking out our surroundings until I saw Via Cernaia – on that street there are a few outlet stores and we are looking for a frying pan and a spatula. I walked out with a small pillow I can pick apart for the filling to make some dolls – it’s been a while – but nothing else. All the pans are the ceramic surface ones that Krish doesn’t like.

We bought four kinds of dim sum and resolved to get some vegetables from the Chinese couple who set up in the farmers’ market only on Saturdays. I hope they are still there. Tonight Krish made the aperitivo and I made a shrimp curry with the massaman curry paste we brought from London. An hour of cooking and three minutes of eating – well, of course!

7th September 20187th September 2018

Rainy days and Thursdays – why am I so tired?

Thursday, 6 September 2018

I am sleeping well. It’s a bloody miracle. Why, then, am I so tired all day? I’ve resolved to ignore it, go with the flow, and see where the day takes me.

We said we’d get to the Tabaccheria by 1, when all of Torino – well, Italy really – closes down for two or three hours, to top up our BIP cards – those are the monthly travel cards. It’s closer to 2 when we leave. And it’s raining.

My new raincoat is actually waterproof as promised but in 28 degree heat it’s also hot! We walked down the road, with overheated me taking photos but mostly in my imagination – too rainy! Past the Porta Palatina, past and through the Palazzo Reale and into the Piazza Castello to the tourist office.

Since July I’ve been trying to book a tour of the Guido Gobino chocolate factory but you need five people to do this. Emails have gone back and forth and I went from being ‘madam’ to ‘dear.’ I thought I might be able to hook up with others but so far I’ve had no luck. Then Cristina told us about the Terra Madre Salone del Gusto 2018 – it’s Torino’s food festival week starting the 20th September! Loads of food events around and during that time. And included is a Gobino tour. Finally!

But no, the tourist office tells us that there are no tours – until we explain that it’s part of the Gusto week. The light dawns! But no again! It’s fully booked. Disappointment doesn’t even describe it. Petulance is more like it. How could my now-buddy. Loredana, at Gobino not have mentioned this to me? We left.

Why do my legs hurt so much???

The rain hasn’t let up but we wander through the deserted porticoes and through the little streets checking out the shop windows. The system here seems to be throw a lot of stuff into the window, pretend this is artful, and stand back to admire. One butcher shop had a shop window full of a haphazard wooden buildings and some toys – I wasn’t quite sure what they were getting at but whatever… And the toy shop – they can arrange their windows however they like – those dolls are wonderful.

The porticoes are wet and deserted — The porticoes give shelter in the sun OR RAIN

Via Giuseppe Barbaroux. Little artisan and independent stores here

We stopped briefly in the market. The lazy mood hasn’t let up so tonight we’re trying readymade cotellette – one chicken, one veal.

At home and wrote to Loredana about the tour. I poured on the pleading – well, just a bit. What have I got to lose?

5th September 20187th September 2018

Rediscovering Torino and napping

Tuesday and Wednesday, 4 and 5 September, 2018

A good night’s sleep and the next day a slow morning. There’s something nice about going somewhere for longer than the usual week or two. There’s no need to rush to do anything. There’s plenty of time if you don’t get too lazy and this time I actually plan to be quite lazy and have some days of rest. Today seemed like a good day to do this. However, I do have to eat and eating is something that’s central to my life and travel. So…off to the market – briefly.

I now like the farmers’ market far more than the bigger market in the square. We mostly looked around to see what was being sold. Italians like to sell only what they produce themselves and this means everything is seasonal. At the beginning of September, the food looks a bit different than last year’s mid-September arrival. I bought a lettuce and some tomatoes.

The Farmers' Market at Porta Palazzo — The Farmers’ Market at Porta Palazzo

In the Mercato Orologio, we bought a pizzetta. Then we wandered a bit.

The big market at Porta Palazzo. I thought it would be fun to contrast this to last week’s photo of a pepper seller in Ridley Road

Wandering through the Galleria. It's been cleaned up and there are some outlets now — Wandering through the Galleria. It’s been cleaned up and there are some outlets now

We were amused AND horrified to see 'Burger Store' in the Piazza Reppublica — We were amused AND horrified to see ‘Burger Store’ in the Piazza Repubblica

We ordered an insalatina di polpo to go (osporto) and watched the pizza making skills in Rondini

Definitely time for a nap! It was just like the hot summer in London. Afternoon sleeps were normal and pleasant. We talked about going out for dinner but in the end we ran to the Carrefour, went to fill some bottles at the fountain and dined on package ravioli! A television night.

Continue reading “Rediscovering Torino and napping”

25th August 201826th August 2018

Pain! And Paddington

Saturday, 25 August, 2018

Wednesday we went to see my aunt in Leigh-on-Sea. She’d asked me to be sure to check with her first: ‘Would be pleased if you can confirm this with me some time beforehand. At my age, one is never sure one will still be around.’ I confirmed…and she was! Fish and chips lunch accomplished, flowers distributed, birthday cake deposited in the fridge – we were too full to eat it!

On the way home all was well until I got up from my seat and had to struggle to get off the train (such pain in my legs and almost impossible to bear weight), down a lot of stairs, along a long corridor, turned back at the next stairs, back halfway along the long corridor and up another flight of stairs, into the train, and a slow limp home. My hips seem to have seized up – never happened before. Hobbled my way through the rest of the evening, very painful. Ugh.

Thursday I decided to just relax, do some stretches, apply heat, and not venture anywhere. Stretching was a shock. One leg moved more than a foot away from my body, the more painful side only a few inches! However, this plan seemed to work since by evening I was walking fairly well again. And my day on the couch meant I did a lot of organising for going away. Yay!

Friday I’d arranged to meet a friend from Wyandotte, Michigan (near Detroit). She’s part of an email group I joined about twenty years ago. The group was an offshoot of a Coronation Street newsgroup back before the internet looked so pretty. We’ve all met over the years and now Kate was in the UK doing her annual Doc Martin fan trip in the Somerset area. I’d booked afternoon tea at The Hilton Paddington so she could easily bring her cases in on her way to Heathrow to go home.

And I was good to go! Walking easily too, but took some pills just in case. I’d read online about a great new transport app called City Mapper so installed it and explored. The app shows every single transport method in the area to get wherever you’re going. This includes public transport, Uber, bike stations…and I noticed a little green icon I’d never seen before. Looking further it was a new ride sharing system under the TFL network, Smart Ride. One of their stops was just across at the Little Local. To get to Paddington, I’d be sharing with up to seven more people, it would take an hour and my first fare would be a discounted £4 (usually £9). To compare this – if I were paying full fare on public transport, it would cost £4.90, and by mini cab £26. Deal!

I could track my ride, which arrived on time, a Mercedes Benz minivan and I was and remained the only passenger all the way. Comfortable, quiet, competent – yes! I love it. Duly shared with friends and maybe I’ll get some referral money.

I do not like Paddington station. It’s my least favourite. I’m not sure why. Maybe it’s the layout but it has a lot to do with how unsavoury I think this part of town is. If I were just arriving for the first time to London from Heathrow, I’d be more than a bit disheartened at my first view of this city. Continue reading “Pain! And Paddington”

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