Street art perspective – mostly Brick Lane

Monday, 20 September, 2021

Looking out of my window this morning, I saw the white tagging on the black utility box opposite being swiftly painted over by some Hackney workers. They  posted a notice on the box, no doubt discouraging any future painting. As if they could really.

Eliminating street art
Eliminating street art

Not all street art is skilled. I’m particularly not fond of the lettering graffiti or so-called tagging, which is just scrawled writing, often on top of other nicer art. I used to like Banksy, but got bored of the political statements and sameness, although he still produces some nice images. In fact, I’ve had favourites that fall from the top of my list as my tastes change or I get weary of the consistent style.

Down in Penge, there’s a street art group that nurtures and organises street art in South-East London. I’m pretty sure there’s nothing in East London, which strikes me as odd when so there’s so much here.

If you’re a fan, you’ll find a lot in Penge and Annerly, Camden, Croydon, Shoreditch and thereabouts. Hackney Wick has always been plastered with art, but this is changing as the new luxury flats and corporate offices are appearing. (Time to go back and see how that’s coming along.) Hackney Central and Dalston aren’t really on the list. I find it, of course – this is London – but there’s not a lot of note. Perhaps if someone produced something splendid on that black box there’d be less hurry to paint it over…

Walking down Brick Lane a few weeks ago, I decided to photograph some of the lesser known, not as attractive stuff. I wonder how long it would take to cover the length of Brick Lane on both sides, taking in the streets that intersect it… Even when it’s untidy or unskilled, or just consists of ‘paste-ups,’ the colour and chaos lifts my mood and intrigues me. Some of it has been there for so many years that I no longer know what came first and what might have popped up recently. The chaos of it creates equal chaos in my brain – how can I remember it all when it’s like a giant memory game. In fact, if anything here is posted twice, it won’t surprise me.

















I’m putting this next one last so I can explain: it’s a Dan Kitchener art piece that’s been tagged over and over. Now, Dan often includes some tagging in his own art, a sort of tongue-in-cheek nod to the practice. The original art is now pretty much hidden, but look at the droplets of water he created. I’m glad they’re still there. He’s famous for rain soaked, multi-reflective and muted work and this is a great reminder of that.

Doc's
Not actual street art but the instantly recognisable Doc Martens soles – clever pavement art
Oakley street art
Oakley street art inspired pavement stencil. Increasingly, corporations are taking note and these days you’re likely to see corporate-sponsored art by known street artists on the walls around town. Maybe it’s a slippery slope…
Street art inspired storefront
On Brick Lane, many shops have art over the whole facade, sometimes only the doors. This one has decorated the outside, inspired by everything around it

On the weekend, I went on a walk called Global Dalston. I learned something about Dalston’s multiethnic roots. I’ll blog about that another time.

The one nice Dalston mural in Gillet Square is obscured by hoarding as they regenerate. I hope it’s left intact
On Kingsland Road, I wasn’t sure if this was street art or painted by the business, or sponsored by them. No signature

Sometimes I take people on a walk and it always includes street art. Occasionally, I pick up cues that the person with me has zero interest in what I’ve shown them. That’s OK. It’s not for everyone. I have friends who think street art is nothing but vandalism. I have friends who favour street artists I don’t care for. It’s nice when a disinterested person walking with me is tempted to take out their phone and capture the art for themselves. When I think about taste in art, my mum comes to mind. She was an accomplished artist who showed talent from a young age, but whose art career was cut short by WW2 and then marriage. She was repulsed by black velvet paintings and said so at every sighting – ‘They have terrible taste.’ One day I couldn’t resist –  ‘You know, mum, thousands of people love them. Maybe it’s your taste that’s off.’ It was naughty of me and earned me a sideways glare, but there it is.

I’ve always liked dereliction and chaos, unattracted by tidiness and order. I put it down to my childhood, growing up in what people called the slums and I called home, playing in the bomb-damaged streets, and my earliest memories of London as a crumbling, sooty, rundown city that I somehow loved. Maybe I’m right about where this love came from and maybe I’m not. No point in making excuses. I see no merit in Picasso. Taste is taste.

Short and sweet – Throgmorton Street, and a view of St Paul’s

Wednesday, 1st September 2021

Throgmorton Street is  so short, I thought I’d be through in a few minutes but it’s a street packed with lovely things, and that’s before I’ve even walked down its few courts and alleys.

Looking at the map you can see Throgmorton Street clearly marked. The diagonal Old Broad Street  will lead you eastwards to the back of Broadgate/Liverpool Street station. I started my little walk at the southern entrance to Austin Friars passage, where Throgmorton Street cuts cleanly into the junction the passage makes with Old Broad Street. The western end of Throgmorton Street stops at the back of the Bank of England. At any rate, it’s not hard to see – even without panning out to the bigger map – that is a bit of a warren.

The street is named after Nicholas Throckmorton, chief banker of England during the reign of Queen Elizabeth I. The stock exchange was on the south side from 1972 to 2004.

Southern entrance to Austin Friars Passage
Southern entrance to Austin Friars Passage. How sad to see the traffic sign affixed here
The start of Throgmorton Street
The start of Throgmorton Street

London's favourite lunch
An optimistic sign along the street. Favourite?
The Throgmorton Restaurant
The Throgmorton Restaurant by J Lyons & Co

The Throgmorton Restaurant, between the Stock Exchange and the Bank of England, was opened on 15 October 1900.

J Lyons & Co., a British restaurant chain, food manufacturing, and hotel conglomerate founded in 1884, had an 80-year lease on the property in 1897 from the Worshipful Company of Drapers. It was a celebrated eating place by the stockbrokers, bankers and insurance brokers who have dominated this  area for generations. By all accounts the interior of the restaurant was incredibly grand, with many rooms. The restaurant business ended in the  1970s.

I have so many happy memories of having tea and cake or sandwiches at Lyons Corner Houses around London. The best are from the 1960s when I worked close to the one on the Strand. I’d buy the cheapest lunch – tomato sandwiches – with the luncheon vouchers that were part of my salary. I’d eat these sandwiches in Trafalgar Square and save the rest of my voucher money so that every Friday I could combine them to have a really special lunch.

Another fun thing about Lyons is Nigella Lawson’s connection –  her mother, Vanessa Salmon, was an heiress born into the Lyons Coffee House dynasty. I loved Lyons chocolate cupcakes and found them one day in Morrison’s supermarkets. My fond memory of peeling off the foil cups, then peeling the chocolate icing off the chocolate sponge bottom, to eat last, was tarnished when I tasted them – they were awful! Had they changed or had my memory been faulty? Likely both.

At any rate, the lanterns and everything about the door is gorgeous (there are two identical doors). The place continued as a restaurant, owned by Mitchells & Butler from 2004 to 2013. I’d missed it.

A magnificent doorway to Drapers Hall.

The original Drapers Hall was built in St Swithin’s Lane in the 1420s, then the present hall was bought from King Henry VIII in 1543. It had been the property of Thomas Cromwell, the king’s chief minister. Thomas had been instrumental in the arrest and execution of Anne Boleyn, and later was executed himself, his property forfeited to the king. The hall was rebuilt after the Great Fire and then in 1772 was again rebuilt. The latest alteration was in 1898-9. What I’ve seen of the inside from pictures shows enormous rooms like a palace. In fact, the halls are often shown in television series and movies, such as The King’s Speech.

Through the gates at the left (closer views below) is Throgmorton Avenue, which runs from here to London Wall. It’s a private road belonging to the Drapers’ livery company, with these splendid gates on each end.  Today this end was closed. The gates to London Wall are controlled by the Carpenters’ Company. All this tells me is that there are bits of the area I need to see more of, since Krish tells me that he was lucky enough to see the gates open one day with some ‘old’ carpenters in their livery having a lunch break.

Apparently the space inside Warnford Court (for rent as offices) are modern and vibrant. This is actually where the London Stock Exchange was housed. I love the clock!
Next to Warnford Court, this narrow barber shop was doing business. I was so pleased to see that my point and pray method let me capture the barber at work
Angel Court
Angel Court was all al fresco dining. This restaurant with its artificial flowers was serving Mexican food with the usual tiny London portions

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House of Annetta – missed tricks

Friday, 27 August, 2021

A journey to Brick Lane is always welcome. I can find so many things to do there, although these days I avoid the weekend. The Sunday markets were always a lot of fun. all the more so if I were taking someone around. On my best days we’d start in Columbia Road Flower Market then make our way over to Spitalfields Market, walk over to Brick Lane and check out all the market stalls and halls, with some lunch along the way. Then up Brick Lane to see the shops there and home again. There were always crowds.

Columbia Road got increasingly busy as more tourists found it and then one day, when I could barely move through it – shoulder to shoulder and wondering how I’d exit, like on a packed train – I stopped going. Spitalfields Market expanded into a new area where the stalls had more expensive goods, gradually the shops changed to pricier ones, and the food became less casual. Expensive restaurants popped up. The crowds weren’t too bad but worse than before. Eventually the old market where the stalls were the type you’d rummage through and be able to pick up several things without spending very much, began to change too. The eating area was moved and was now a group of tidy counters, the stalls were changed so they were fixed and neat. One area was devoted to other food kiosks with the new market uniform look. The food area began to spread and take over, with all the nicer seating. The people started to change too. No longer rough and ready, noisy and enthusiastic, they were now tidy, quiet or giggly, more money in their pockets. These days I hardly ever go. I can find nothing to buy, the food is overpriced, the atmosphere of the old market is gone. The Brick Lane markets got much busier too. The market stalls spread along the street itself, more and more of them, and mostly food. Now it was all weekend and the crowds grew, they too changing from chaotic and rebellious to more monied and trendy.

I pride myself on being a champion of change. I’ve always loved to see things moving with the times, reinventing, shapeshifting, and becoming something new but interesting. I’m fascinated with innovation and how people find different ways to design and use things. But there’s a curious and frustrating trend to uniformity. While some places stride to be unique, there can be a sameness that leaves me wondering why opportunities and tricks were missed.

Not that Brick Lane ever disappoints. When you come here on a weekday, the crowds are gone, unless you come when the mosque lets out its throngs of people. Then they fill the streets, heading home or back to work. I’m curious about them – why are they all male? what are their lives like? how long were they praying? where are the children? I love the clothing, the general quietness even in a crowd, the way they’ve imparted their calm culture in this area.

But Brick Lane is changing too. The pandemic has brought the tables out onto the pavement and some shops are closed, shuttered, or keeping shorter hours. One by one newer places have opened among the old Bangladeshi shops, more and more not Bangladeshi or Bengali. They’re  more likely to be vintage clothing, small artisanal designers, cafes that sell matcha not chai, vegan brownies not samosas, burritos not tikka masala rolls.

The pub has existed since at least the middle of the 19th century, if not always under that name. It’s associated with one of the Ripper suspects, and is one of the rare old sights left. Heneage Street

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Clapton Terrace and Woodberry Downs

Friday, 20 August 2021

I won’t lie. I have very little interest in countryside. This usually flabbergasts people. How can I not love it? I get the same reaction as when I say I’m not interested in pets. I must surely be subhuman, a monster!

It’s not that I can’t enjoy being ‘in nature.’ I love looking at mountains and hills, I love the ocean (not lying on the beach, though)…but I’m most comfortable in cities. Not the super noisy commercial parts, but where I can see buildings and people and all things urban (and hopefully not sub). I don’t even like parks or public gardens. I’m fine in the countryside for short visits, but I tire easily and don’t feel like myself. So I’ll stop being defensive and say that’s just who I am.

However, Lisa and I were meeting for lunch and she suggested we go to the Woodberry Wetlands and find something there. Coincidentally one of my favourite local places had been advertising a second location – at Woodberry Down. Perfect.

I took the bus to Lisa’s place. I love the buildings she lives in. They are set back from the road opposite Clapton Common in a row called Clapton Terrace. It’s not known exactly when the terraced houses were built but the oldest ones show in  a map from 1774 and one house has a plaque dated 1760. They were probably lived in by wealthy family who would have had stables at the back. These are listed buildings and haven’t changed very much.

At the end of the terrace (at number 1) is St Thomas’ Church. The first church was built some time between 1773 and 1777 and was initially in a large fenced garden. It’s been extensively altered and  in 1873 the whole of the interior was remodelled. These days it’s a plain and solid looking Anglican church with a fairly active presence and congregation in the mostly Jewish neighbourhood.

I haven’t really become used to being driven in a car in London. It feels alien. There are differences other than the obvious oddities of being on the left. The cars are small and they seem to drive quickly. There are no stop signs and there are amber lights before green and red ones. Drivers seem more skilled, able to negotiate sharper turns, narrower roads, and dodging pedestrians who cross the road at random – not quite slowing down to do so but somehow managing it. And Lisa drives me confidently over to Woodberry Down.
I was really surprised to see the usual North London architecture give way to a very modern area. And our target, 215 Hackney, was along a modern street.

The original 215 Hackney is – not surprisingly – at 215 Stoke Newington Road in Hackney. This location is their second and this was my third visit, but only the first to this new location. It’s much larger than the original, but mostly the same middle Eastern influenced menu. I had the Jerusalem breakfast, which I chose for the variety of things on the plate.


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Exploring Broadgate

Thursday August 12, 2021

Every time I’ve gone to Liverpool Street with Krish (who goes on to Guys) I’ve meant to check out the new shops they’ve built into the Broadgate exit from the station. Before, it was a shop-lined walk back to an open area where you could sit on the steps and enjoy your lunch. Inside the Broadgate circle were some popular chain cafes – places I’d think of eating and then was put off by queues and prices. In that respect, it hasn’t much changed.

Now from the back of the station where you’d walk at ground level to Broadgate, you can go an alternate route to an upper level — up the escalators to some fancy new shops, look out at Old Broad Street from the top and circle around to Broadgate Circle where it’s expanded to some upper cafes where I’m plagued by queues and prices! Somewhere in my head I’m thinking maybe it always was here. Such thinking can give me a headache though, so I’ll just say that, if it was always there,  it’s been refreshed. It’s open, bright and very, very different than the old station roads of Liverpool Street and Bishopsgate.

Map of Broadgate
Map of Broadgate walk. The yellow are the Broadgate pedestrian areas, and the red is my outside walking route
On the overground
Hackney Downs to Liverpool Street – eight minutes as a rule. Mask wearing for most in the overground
Kinder Transport
Für das Kind, the Kindertransport memorial inside the station by the tube entrance
Walking towards Broadgate
Walking towards Broadgate – at the back entrance to the station
Escalators to the upper level of Broadgate, Old Broad Street, and the Elizabeth Line entrance
Escalators to the upper level of Broadgate, Old Broad Street, and the Elizabeth Line entrance. The shops that used to line the left hand side of this lower level are all gone
Looking up to the top level of Broadgate shopping
Looking up to the top level of Broadgate shopping
Looking out towards Old Broad Street from upper level Broadgate shopping
Looking out towards Old Broad Street from upper level Broadgate shopping. The Elizabeth Line entry is towards the left
Top of the escalators at Broadgate shopping level
Top of the escalators at Broadgate shopping level. If you look straight ahead you see the bus arrival station
Looking straight ahead is Broadgate Circle
Looking straight ahead is Broadgate Circle
Shopping ahead before entering Broadgate Circle
Shopping ahead before entering Broadgate Circle

These two photos show the wide area before Broadgate Circle and the construction continuing
These two photos show the wide area before Broadgate Circle and of the construction continuing

A little something about Broadgate – it’s a hub of office buildings linked by public squares located on the original site of Broad Street station (closed in 1986) and beside and above the railway approaches into Liverpool Street station. It covers 32 acres and brings the world of finance together with food, retail and culture. 19 million people come here to work, and to shop, dine and be entertained in the mainly-pedestrianised development. Building started in the mid to late 80s. Broadgate Circle was completed in 2015, not so long ago.

Leaping Hare on Crescent and Bell statue  
Leaping Hare on Crescent and Bell statue by Barry Flanagan in Broadgate Circle
Inside Broadgate Circle
Broadgate Circle from this level is like looking at an amphitheatre and from up here you don’t imagine the activity just below
Looking down at Broadgate Circle dining
Looking down at Broadgate Circle dining
View of Broadgate Circle with Finsbury Avenue Square in the background
View of Broadgate Circle with Finsbury Avenue Square in the background
The queues at every fast food place
The queues at every fast food place

I considered each fast food place. The dim sum was motioning, the poke bowls were fascinating, but I moved on towards Finsbury Avenue Square, an area I didn’t recognise as having seen before. To get to it I had to walk in a seemingly narrow area by an interesting metallic structure.

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