Fri, 7 May, 2021
I didn’t go with Krish to his appointment today. The timing was wrong. But I did go to Whitechapel to meet him. There were two things on my mind – take a look at Vine Court (near Ambala) and find a good biryani. (Hint – one out of two ain’t bad.)
Whitechapel Station is on the main Whitechapel Road but these days the station entrance is closed while they prepare for the Elizabeth Line. I chose to come this way since they have lifts at the entry and exit stations, but I didn’t count on the long walk from my platform to the side street where the temporary exit is.
I was a little surprised to see Whitechapel thronging with people. It was like Covid had never happened, except for the masks. It was Ramadan and everyone was milling about, buying things, including from the tables laden with fast-breaking food. If I’d not just started my walk and had someone to advise me, I might have been tempted to come away with a feast.
My first search was for biryani. I’d bought some several weeks ago from a little shop but it wasn’t worth even the cheap price. The rice was bland and the lamb was dried out. It was worth a try. Krish and I both dreamed of a moist and fragrant lamb biryani with nuts and fruit. I had a place marked on the map that was considered the best in the area and thought it was close to the station but I walked and walked and walked. I then overshot it, but found it. There was a menu in the window, no photos, but it didn’t sound like it was going to fit the bill. I walked on.
However, I did get a good look at Altab Ali Park – opposite Brick Lane. It’s named for a 25-year-old Bangladeshi Sylheti clothing worker who was killed by three teens in a racist attack in 1978. I also had another opportunity to look at the Whitechapel Bell Foundry, which has had such a controversial closure. Founded in  began in 1570, it moved to this location in 1670, and made Big Ben and the original Liberty Bell among others. It has plans to also make the Covid Bell, which will sound when the pandemic ends and the Elizabeth Bell to mark the queen’s 70 years on the throne in 2023. Every time I see it, I think it will be gone soon, taken over by the boutique ‘Bell’ hotel that will be built there. The appeal to save it failed, then only a day later it was announced that a parliamentary decision could overturn the plans for the hotel. I hope it happens.
Just a few words about Vine Court. I’ve been looking at it as I rode or walked by for ages. It’s shabby, but I wondered what might be down at the end. I was a little hesitant, since the alley is narrow and shaded, but I could see activity at the other end so I walked ahead and hoped for the best. Looking at my photos now, they don’t show much. What I needed to photograph, and didn’t, were the little cafes and shops at the end of the street, which was a cul de sac. Once at the end, to my right were several parked motorcyles and to my left a dead end. I walked down there a bit and saw that there was a modern block of flats behind a gate. I should go back and grab photos of the interesting bits. I suspect I was more spooked than I’ll admit.
I’d wanted to get down to Commercial Road and the Lahore Kebab restaurant to see if their biryani were any more promising but my knee said no. So, I went down to Shalimar for the usual lamb kebabs, and Needoo Grill for some aubergine dhal and naan. They were their usual friendly selves – How are you, ma’am. Haven’t seen you for a while! By this time, Krish had arrived at busy Ramadan-time Ambala from his hospital visit, and we rode home together.
