Hackney has a carnival

Sunday, 8 September, 2019

I haven’t been able to find out how many years it’s been going but there has been some sort of small local carnival in the area since the early 70s. The larger Hackney One Carnival wasn’t much when I first arrived in Hackney. I remember a small parade that would travel along from the town hall to Amhurst Road, move down Pembury Road and land at Hackney Downs, where there would be several stalls set up. Up in Ridley Road market there was more to see – more music, more food.

But it’s grown. Now the route is longer and there are many performers. Now there are satellite areas all over, with several sound stages, impromptu and planned.

When I woke up and began preparing for the day, things seemed to kick into gear early. I could hear a persistent voice saying something like ‘Get off the bike or we will call the police.’ At first puzzled, I then realised that someone must have been on a public-use bike that shouldn’t be riding it. I had no idea these bikes could talk.

My Hackney morning had begun.

I was really surprised when Krish said he’d come with me to the parade. He’s not good with such events. However, we set off together past the barriers that closed off traffic and towards the town hall. I didn’t have a lot of time but I wanted to see something of the parade – being short, and with more than 60,000 people expected, I wasn’t anticipating much joy with that – then check out Bohemia Place market, travel along the Narrow Way, behind St Augustine’s Tower to the churchyards, the bicycle path, and on to St John’s of Hackney – two hours, I thought.

Not surprisingly, Krish lasted less than ten minutes. That’s OK. My camera and I had plans.

And also not surprisingly, although the parade made lots of noise, I couldn’t see a thing. And I was short on time so I set off towards Bohemia Place. It wasn’t very busy. There were some stalls, a bunch selling food – mostly vegan as always – and a DJ on a sound stage.

The Narrow Way was pretty busy. I had a rare jaunt into the McDonalds, which was less not more busy than usual. A mini chicken wrap and mini ice cream and I was good for another hour or two.

There were two bands on the street with a good crowd for each.

I walked over to the churchyard past the tower. I found a children’s area inside what I call the Hackney Secret Garden and, to the side, a large sound stage was set up. I’d managed to catch the band between set and listened to the singer try to liven up the audience. This was strangely hard to do, considering the occasion, but I always have fun listening to the local hip hop accent.

I love Churchwell Path. It runs at the back of the churchyard and bridges the two main streets of Morning Lane and Lower Clapton Road. Along here, with all the aboveground tombs,  is a quiet oasis away from the shopping and constant stream of people and buses.

In front of St John’s of Hackney church I expected to see more stalls and people milling, and perhaps another sound stage. Instead I found the grass area empty, a small DJ stand over to the side and several food stalls lined against the iron fence.

I’m surprised how many of the stands this year were vegan food stalls. There were plenty of customers. Still, the jerk chicken barbecues were also apparent, with billows of smoke everywhere. I wish I liked the flavour!

It was peaceful here but I was running out of time. Walking away from the carnival with every step, the music was following me.  I’m sure there was more to see, more outposts from the main stage, but I needed to get home. On the way, though, I noticed that the locals were having their own small parties. A shopfront here and there, a speaker aimed out of a window.

For me, it was the end of the Hackney One Carnival.