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Trendy Vanchigilia

Thursday, 26 October (Day Thirty-nine)

Today was a relaxing day!

We went to Vanchiglia, just a short walk away in the Mole / university neighbourhood.

I was hungry and ran into a student hangout called La Piadonza. Here they make a flour tortilla in a press in front of you, put it on the griddle and fill it. I chose smoked salmon with something called  squacquerone (I haven’t found a translation but it’s creamy) and arugula, and glad I did. It was delicious and light. A great lunch.

I love the little glimpses of the hazy Mole from these streets.

Hazy Mole in Vanchiglia
Hazy Mole in Vanchiglia

Vanchiglia on the surface looks like any other neighbourhood but it’s become trendy. There are lots of little artisan shops and cafes and I feel at home here, like it’s a sort of  mini Hoxton or Shoreditch.  I wonder how it will be in five years. There’s even a little circus that puts me in mind of Arnold Circus – Largo di Montebello.
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A misty day – Vanchliglia, the Gran Madre di Dio, Santa Maria del Monte – Monte dei Cappuccini!

Wednesday, 25 October (Day Thirty-eight)

My mum told the story that, when my family first moved to the L.A. area (not far from Pasadena) they got up one day and discovered there were mountains at the bottom of the road. They had never seen them before and there they were.

Torino feels like that. If I hadn’t seen them before, I’d not know that the hill with the Basilica (Superga) and the Alps in the other direction were there. It doesn’t seem like it’s going to be less smoggy or is it just misty, any time soon. So one of these days we’re just going to have to ‘climb’ that hill to Superga and take it as it comes.

We started the day with a visit to Vanchiglia but for some reason, perhaps because we turned left instead of right… there we were at the Po again. And today the monastery up to the left of us seems to be calling our name.

Market in Vanchiglia
Market in Vanchiglia

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Park Dora – a modern Pompeii

Tuesday 24 October (Day Thirty-seven)

Today Krish wanted to show me Skatepark Dora. This land until the nineties housed the great production plants of Fiat and Michelin. The steel pylons of the structure remain. Sitting in the centre, looking around, I can’t help but think of Pompeii – another ruin. This one isn’t historic or fascinating in quite the same way so the city gave it to the people. It’s now a Skatepark, recreation area, and has a lot of wall art.

We take the number 3 tram, one of the historical lines, almost to the door. The effect of this park is eerie and stark. And it’s huge. In fact, the area the factories covered went all the way across to the other side of the major road and continued for some time.

Skatepark Dora Underpass
Skatepark Dora Underpass

On the other side are apartment buildings, new ones. And more wall art and concrete remains of the factories. There are also steel pedestrian bridges that cross all over this area.
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A day of rest

Monday 23 October (Day Thirty-six)

Yesterday’s walking took its toll. Today I spent the whole day resting on the couch with a hot water bottle hoping I could walk again soon. It was difficult to walk even to the bathroom or the sink. Some anxious moments but by mid afternoon, it was feeling a lot better.

The good thing about today was how clear it was. Today we could see the alps from the balcony closest to the kitchen.

We can see the Alps!
We can see the Alps!
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Lunch at home, the Mole and another bunch of oops

Sunday, 22 October (Day Thirty-five)

The fog is still on the hills so it’s a perfect day for my planned lunch. Liat arrives at noon and we tuck in. It’s been a struggle to make things that I’m very used to having. Things taste different but we eat – matzo ball soup again, then some veg and hummus, mango salad, and burrata with some fresh bread. It’s a success. Phew!

Oops. Esmeralda gets a text that her card has just been used. Suddenly she no longer has any hope that it’s been found. The bad news is that she has to call the bank and sort this out during our lunch. The good news is that now the rest of the day is cleared. No more hunting.

Liat, Esmeralda and I head out for the Mole. Sadly, when we get there there’s a really long queue and we decide not to join it but carry on walking.

Fall in Parco Reale
Fall in Parco Reale

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