Today was a great day! There was a good mix of all the things I love.
I was busy until about noon, then had a quick lunch with leftover pasta and meatballs. I did some research, still trying to find out about the bipparevale (monthly card). So far it’s just not clear so I tweeted to the GTT.
First we walked to Raspino, a bakery Krish had loved the last time we were here. It wasn’t open (expected) but it was the first step in exploring the Vanchiglia neighbourhood. I had three addresses that would act as markers along the way. I figured out that north of the river was Vanchiglietta, a pretty neighbourhood filled with trendy cafes and workshops. Very peaceful here. It definitely has all the earmarks of the sort of villagey feel such areas need to have to work well. Nothing much was open but I think another visit will work really well. There are plenty of places to sit quietly or have a coffee. There are also some art spaces and finally some interesting wall art.
Vanchiglietta StreetVanchigliettaVanchiglietta Wall Art
Today was the quietest day yet! I made a big pot full of meatballs and simmered them in some pasata for later. Then I could easily have relaxed all day and done nothing
Inside the Flat
But we went for a walk across the river to Lidl, walking along some of the streets of the Aurora District. We passed many cafes and abandoned factories and imagined them renovated and becoming fancy in the next few years.
This flat across the Doro was fascinating
At Lidl I managed to find orange juice, something that had evaded me, and also cooking oil and more milk. And there’s chocolate for later!
All day today, the churches all around us were ringing bells. We wondered if they coordinated somehow so that they weren’t all ringing at the same time.
Meatballs with tagliatelle and some rapini for lunch, then a lazy afternoon which ran into the evening. I finally started to make a new doll – I’m imagining blue and silver clothing. For dinner some risotto with pumpkin – needed more cheese! Another episode of The Expanse and bed time!
Saturday is market day! Well, every day is market day to be honest. However, on Saturday there’s an antique/flea market in the adjacent streets of Balon. I’ve not usually bothered with that market but it’s *right there* and it was wild. Dozens of stalls and blankets stretched on the cobblestones, ranging from real antiques to garage sale goods and bits and pieces of this and that. The streets of Balon are rough and the walls covered with streetart and graffiti, sadly much of the latter scrawling and political statements. The area is multi-ethnic but looks predominantly Arabic and North African. It’s hard to take photos here, like in many flea markets I’ve visited elsewhere in Europe. You can get anything from dirty looks to shouts of No Photo! To threats. I try to imagine why this is but think about stolen goods or illegals. It adds to the feeling of chaos and adventure.
But there are some nice things here and Krish spots a coffee book table about Torino but we don’t have much change and I teach him the art of haggling. I wonder if he’ll use it again later. There’s a few people selling toiletries and jewellery but much of what’s on offer is heaps of discarded toys and clothing and household goods. Still very interesting. Some people have whole table cloths and blankets spread out while others have smaller tea towel sized plots. Each is guarded by their owner, expecting sales. I am drawn to a large blanket covered with very colourful toys – dolls, toy cars, action figures. I want to come back and look at this again. There’s a restaurant at the first junction – the smell is tantalising and the menu looks good and cheap but I’ve promised myself meals at home today. I leave, promising myself that I’ll come armed with small bills and change another day.
Out of the market we amble into the Quadrilatero that runs into the Porta Palazzo food market. We rediscover a toy store from our last visits and I know I want to come back and buy things here. The window is fantastic and I’ve never gone inside. I check out some of the Chinese stores – find fish sauce for another day, and strike it with finding tiger balm. Then we go in search of lentils to make dhal – I’ve read I can find them in a store close to the market. They’re there! As are many peas, beans, spices and seeds and the like – in packages and in bulk. They cost more than expected but now we know where to find them.
The market is heaving today and thank goodness we have a short list. Tables are groaning under huge cauliflowers, bushels of tomatoes, onions, garlic, tangerines, grapes, fantastic looking mushrooms…it’s overwhelming. I duck into the covered market (one of four here in the square) and buy a square of pizza to fortify myself against the crazy shopping ahead, even for the few items I know I need. Today I know I want to make risotto, and some meat balls for pasta at the very least so the various ingredients get hunted down. Even more so today, the merchants aren’t pleased with small orders but we love the egg stall, where nothing is too little and nothing is too much trouble.
Very happy to leave the market today and we know we will avoid Saturdays in the future.
Another nice rest in the afternoon after a lunch of arancini and salad.
Arincini for lunch
Then after 6 we leave for the museum. There are a lot of people in line but we hang in there and it’s not long before we head down to the starting point. I’m very pleased that the small entry fee tonight includes an audio guide. I’ve never been very good at following these but I feel determined today.
Leaving the ticket hall, escalators take you up a few flights to begin the tour. All together there are three permanent exhibitions and two temporary. There’s just too much to tell you about the museum itself.  Its one of the largest collections of Egyptian artifacts with more than 30,000 items on display.
Turin has been collecting artifacts since 1630. There are paintings, parchments, statues, sarcophagi, mummies, tombs, and more. It’s very impressive. The most impressive room is on the ground floor and in q dark hall, statues of various kings are spotlighted – it’s pretty stunning. We aren’t really museum people but we arrived at about 6:45 and didn’t leave until almost 11pm as the doors were closing, and we left knowing that we hadn’t seen it all.
We walked back through the dark, then illuminated streets, through some wonderful arcades and courtyards and then finally through the Quadrilatero where there were crowds of people in party mode. Near the end of the road a great band was playing and we want to go back and find them when we’re not quite so weary and ready for bed.
We walked past the archaeological museum, which is very close by the Porta Palatina in a complex called I Palazzi Reale. I noticed that the wall beside the towers was broken where the road crossed it and started again on the museum side. The structure is quite interesting, with a thin layer of red brick, a large layer of stones, another thin layer of red brick, repeated. I wonder if the wall is the same era as the gate. I also thought about the Romans using basically the same red bricks as we use today! There are some ruins inside the museum grounds – it might be a small amphitheatre but a semi-circular design anyway, not very large with a few tiers. I’ll have to find out what the ruins are – there were quite a few people gathered at ground level looking down, so no chance to read any signage. There’s also a tall tower open for climbing. I will try to do this one day if the entry is free, one day when I don’t have as much walking ahead or late in a day when I’ve been doing things at home. The royal palace is a museum and with no sovereign in Italy it’s open and not inaccessible like Buckingham Palace. It has a large courtyard inlaid with stones that form a pattern – must find out what it looks like from above – a royal or Torinese symbol perhaps?
Wandering into a small caffe area I was suddenly struck with a thought. There was no rush. I could do this any time I wanted. This was a very happy thought. Best to take advantage though or the holiday would end and ‘no rush’ will have turned into ‘no time.’
We needed some toiletries and I’d been thinking how much I missed Shoppers Drug Mart, even Superdrug or Boots! Pharmacies in Italy seem to be only the very serious or very specialised – perfume only, beauty only…where do people buy shampoo and hand soap? Apparently, the supermarket is the best choice but I’ll keep exploring that. We happened on a shop called Ipersoap which seemed to promise something so in we went. The shelves are full of bargain cleaning products – from hand soap to shower gel to dish detergent to floor cleaners. We even knew a few of the brands – bingo!
The Torino Info is in the large square of Piazza Castello. Its always busy. We wanted to book some tours and Krish began the process of doing this. Despite the servers speaking many languages with apparent ease, it’s not the easiest thing to do. I wish it were only about language. There are so many things that we need to understand, things that are done or thought of differently than we are used to. In the end, after one false start, we get the tours booked:
La Stampa – just for him
Caffarel
Costadoro Caffe – just for me
Thales Aerospace – just for him
Looking forward to it. I’m the most intrigued by the Caffarel since it’s a five hour tour. What will we do all that time? Do we eat chocolate for lunch?
Then we use the Google voice directions to get to the Egyptian museum, to find out about the Heritage Day entrance on Saturday night. The museum usually costs 15 Euros but on this one day it will be only 5 Euros, from 630pm to closing. We find out that we need only show up on the night so that’s a great relief. Sometimes no commitment is a good thing!
At the main station of Porta Nuova, we’re again confused by the (lack of) information. Where do we find out about the transport pass? The station is modern and bright but… At ground level there are shops and pathways leading to the platforms, below ground is the metro – no station workers in sight anywhere. As a rule you’ll find a transport information centre in stations like this but not here. Up at ground level we go outside and look for signs and then I see the GTT office across the street. It’s a small square building. Inside they tell us we need to go back to the station and we’ll find the office next to platform 20. Back we go. It’s there all right. It’s also jammed with people in a waiting room and there’s a confusing number system machine, like in an Italian post office. Choose what you want and take a number – what do we even want? There must be 75 people waiting and others milling around. It’s daunting! So we grab some forms and aim to figure it out another day. Since then we’ve asked some residents to fill us in on how to do this. Neither one knows and one admitted to complete confusion. Not just us then! This will have to wait till Monday. For now we’ll get a few tickets to save my legs.
Back at the flat things are again peaceful. My photos are starting to mount and these blogs don’t write themselves. It’s a great chance to just let things happen where I can, trust that with a little time all the things I want to do will fall into place – won’t they?
After a few hours we venture out again. We head for San Salvario because I want to revisit a restaurant I went with my niece, Adrianna. The ride there is simple – great to be getting the hang of the transport somewhat – and we take a small detour to the synagogue. I remember it as a beautiful building in the shabby deprived area of San Salvario. At night, though, it’s dark – no illumination and I can’t take any photos. It’s a very narrow street and I’ll have to come back during the day. It’s always sad to see armed guards outside any church and this one is no exception. Two soldiers in camo gear and with machine guns under their arms are standing by their vehicle, watching everyone who passes.
San Salvario is, as I said, shabby and deprived. Like most cities, this area is slowly gentrifying and I’d say in Torino this is happening quite slowly. Not much has changed. It’s very apparent that it’s earned its nightlife reputation though. There are lots of people in the caffes and restaurants, many sitting or standing on the street, voices high, music playing. It’s lively! We head towards Rosso and it looks exactly the same. The owner works here with his family and he’s behind the counter slicing salume. I’ve seen him every night on Facebook Live and told him I’m coming but suddenly I’m not brave enough to say hello. Never mind. We’re not really hungry! We choose a salume plate and a pasta with anchovies to share (a local specialty) and Krish has his eye on some marinated vegetables, which I know he’ll regret! The half litre of red wine is a bargain at 5 Euros and it’s mild and lovely. We ask about it later, thinking to buy some but it’s ‘from home!’ That’s a surprise.
Sadly, today the food disappoints. The salume is nice but it’s all dry meats – one of the cheeses is very nice, I should have asked what it was. Krish tasted and screwed up his nose at the vegetables – lesson learned! The pasta was nice but salty. I thought about my blood pressure and decided not to! I’ll come back but alone. That night Krish was moaning and claiming food poisoning. I think it was more about the acidity of the vegetables – he’s not such a pickle fan. And no Facebook Live or lively company but maybe that’s not such a bad thing. I hate cameras.
Although we had thought about a day trip today, I don’t think we are organised enough so I suggested we go to Lingotto since it’s on our list. At Lingotto there is the old Fiat factory which has been turned into two NH Hotels, a large shopping mall which includes a cinema complex, and on the roof is the old Fiat testing track. As well there’s the original Eataly, which is on my list.
The first adventure was finding and buying tickets for the bus. Before that, we need to find out how much they cost and how to use them. This kind of thing is different everywhere – figuring out transportation is important but can be bewildering with conflicting information. It seems it costs 1.50 for a 90 minute ticket. You can use it on all the modes of transport – metro, bus, and tram, but you can enter the metro only once. Sounds reasonable. Buying the tickets is another story since there’s no metro station close to us. Tobacconists seem the best source so we find one near the bus stop and, joy, he speaks English (rusty, he says, but he speaks it very well).
It’s one bus all the way to the Lingotto complex and thank goodness for my map application since there’s no announcement of stops along the way. When we do arrive at what the app promises to be our final stop, we can’t see anything that looks like the Fiat factory. We walked half a block and there on our right it said Eataly. In my mind, I’d placed Eataly inside the Fiat buildings but it seems it’s instead inside an old vermouth factory (Vermouth is from here) and a short hop across a walkway from the Fiat complex. K is impatient in Eataly, which is modern and bright, so we head straight for the factory.
The Original Eataly at Lingotto
It’s a cream coloured building and hard to imagine there’s a shopping mall inside there. But it’s actually very deep.
Sadly, it’s not much of a mall. The stores aren’t too interesting, the food court is unimaginative, but there’s a lovely gift shop with Fiat and Lambretta souvenirs and the like, as well as some fabulous looking books. Inside the gift shop is a glass elevator that takes you to the roof. We hope there are some views up there but know that if you want to see the track it’s included in the price of admission to the art gallery, 10E entry.
Out of the elevator is a gorgeous view of the inner courtyard. It’s lush and green with several palm trees. I tried to take a few photos but with the elevator moving and the layers of glass, they aren’t very successful. However, reaching the fourth floor we discover that despite a notice saying no admission to the test track, there it is! Honestly nothing to look at but the history…!
The Fiat test track
The best part is an ‘eyrie’, I’ll call it. A lookout point over the track that looks like it came straight from a sci fi movie. One part of it reminds me of the roof on the Reichstag in Berlin and I muse about the wartime ties between the two countries. And I wonder out loud how the Italians decided to side with the Germans, something that I’ve never thought about before.
The Fiat track observation tower
Suddenly, I’m comfortable with this country and its ideologies. I think about the officious police officers with their black uniforms and guns – automatic or pistols – and unsmiling faces, the rules laid down for tourists, and for residents too, and I wonder how it affects daily life. I may be here to live like a local but I’m not voting, or sending my children to school, or buying a home, or navigating the various government channels for any reason. Is it different elsewhere but really just the same? Just as many but different rules?
There’s a long bridge leading out to the parking lot. The travelators aren’t walking so it’s a good journey over there. There’s also the Olympic ground with a large arch that I joke looks like a basketball net. And from up there we can see that the Fiat grounds have gorgeous lush green spaces – one with blocks of hedges and one with a neat grove of trees. It’s a little hard to imagine the factory as a factory but it’s interesting to try to discern the old amongst the new.
The Olynpic Arch
I wrangle a short visit to Eataly. I really don’t want to come back here since I can tell I won’t stay here long in any case. And I don’t. Krish waits outside but I do call him in to look at the kitchenware. We are still in the market for a frying pan and a spatula. There’s nothing suitable in here though. Eataly looks like a fancy food court with a small supermarket and a couple of shops attached. But the prices aren’t too bad! Nothing worth hanging around long for though so we leave and are on our way.
The plan is to eat somewhere between here and home. It’s almost three and we’re hungry. Then we spot a gelateria so pop inside to look at the flavours. We choose a medium cup with three flavours – cream of pistachio, which has a thick Nutella like topping, fior de latte, and violet. It’s a great ice cream and violet is the winner! Yum.
We’re pretty happy to be home. We’ve managed to arrive without having had lunch and it’s now close to 5pm so I put together the remaining agnolottoni, the leftover cooked sausage, and some salad. Done!
Later that evening we decide to pop out again in search of a drink and some salume – we head for a place we’ve been before – it’s local and reliable for salume (local cured meats). We order antipasto misto but it turns out to be a selection of their starters and not the meat and cheese platter we’d expected. A mistake but one we’re OK with since it looks interesting and lighter than what we’d gone in for. I got prosecco in a large wine glass, woah. I’m a cheap drunk but it was enjoyable.
Antipasto
In the market square some people are hanging around, some try to engage us. We keep walking. Some of the stalls and awnings are being taken down but not all. For the third time I wonder if they no longer dismantle it but without our previous years’ vantage we can’t tell. In those days we could look out of the window regularly and watch the wonderful choreography of the market.
Home to watch some more of The Expanse and then to bed.
Inside the Flat
This flat across the Doro was fascinating
