Quadrilatero and a sort of Chinatown

Thursday, 8 September, 2018

This morning Krish went to fill our BIP cards for the month and brought home some impressive shrimp from Gallina.  No rain today, just a hot sun. We were going to take a bus somewhere but instead we went for a walk.

At the west corners of Piazza Repubblica there’s a sort of Chinatown. It’s not signposted as such but there are several small Chinese grocery stores and last year we even found a Chinese bakery on the north side. We also had a quite awful Chinese lunch in one place too – this time I will avoid anything of the kind without a serious recommendation, and I’ll be skeptical even then. But we do know that they sell all the dim selection we love in London!

Might as well be on Spadina
Might as well be on Spadina

At the southwest corner, in front of a row of Chinese stores, whole gangs of people hang out. They appear to be African, Asian, and South American and I’m not quite sure what they do there. I’ve not noticed any selling, something i’m used to on the corners of Toronto Chinatown. To be honest, it feels a bit menacing and that makes me uneasy about myself but there it is. I’ll try to think of it as  a Meeting Place! I took a photo really quickly, mindful of the times such photos have been followed by threats!

Always a crowd hanging out on this corner, all the way down
Always a crowd hanging out on this corner, all the way down

We wandered through the Quadrilatero. I suppose this is Torino’s version of Old Town. Unlike many European cities, Turin has a lot of straight streets intersecting each other – gridded.  I’d actually say that’s one of the least attractive things about this city for me, since I’m really fond of something more maze-like.

This was a Roman area, which explains the grid. Wikipedia tells me ‘This area is still recognizable by the road structure characterized by the network of orthogonal streets, and by some important remains of the walls preserved until today. ‘ And it has that Latin quarter thing going on – clubs, restaurants, interesting little boutiques and workshops. There are some truly beautiful buildings and inner courtyards too. I’ll see it all in time.

We discovered the graffiti shop but most art around here is just scribbles
We discovered the graffiti shop but most art around here is just scribbles
And more scribbles
And more scribbles
The architecture is mixed but I like the casualness of this building
The architecture is mixed but I like the casualness of this building

There are lots of shop windows to look in. For the most part, as I already said, these Torinese aren’t masters of window display, with a few exceptions. They are pretty good at displaying food – can’t go wrong there really – but otherwise it’s a bit of a mess. The exception is with toys. The really incredible Bazar Bonino comes to mind, as well as the doll store on Via Barbaroux. This year I will buy something expensive and no hesitation.

The usual whimsical and haphazard window display
The usual whimsical and haphazard window display
Fabulous clockwork toys at Bazar Bonino. I could spend a long time looking at the windows of this tiny place
Fabulous clockwork toys at Bazar Bonino. I could spend a long time looking at the windows of this tiny place
Close to the flat, this store sells ribbons and decorations
Close to the flat, this store sells ribbons and decorations
I assume this is part of the original Roman architecture
I assume this is part of the original Roman architecture
Its not all pretty but I like the ambience. Reminds me of Porto
Its not all pretty but I like the ambience. Reminds me of Porto

So much to see in the Quadrilatero. At night it’s a different place, full of music and people milling about. There’s also the Museum of Oriental Art, which I may try to see this year on a free day.

We had no real goals. We kept walking and checking out our surroundings until I saw Via Cernaia – on that street there are a few outlet stores and we are looking for a frying pan and a spatula. I walked out with a small pillow I can pick apart for the filling to make some dolls – it’s been a while – but nothing else. All the pans are the ceramic surface ones that Krish doesn’t like.

From Via Cernaia
From Via Cernaia

We bought four kinds of dim sum and resolved to get some vegetables from the Chinese couple who set up in the farmers’ market only on Saturdays. I hope they are still there. Tonight Krish made the aperitivo and I made a shrimp curry with the massaman curry paste we brought from London. An hour of cooking and three minutes of eating – well, of course!

Aperitivo
Aperitivo at 5pm
Dinner at 9pm!
Dinner at 9pm!