This morning I finally made my beef stew – with red wine, whole garlic, red onion wedges, thyme, and some young carrots. I taste it before we leave and am thrilled that it’s much more tender than the original too-lean meat promised.
On the way out we go along Via Milano. We used to be on this road a lot in ‘our’ old flat but haven’t gone along here too often this time. There are still things there that evoke the pure essence of Torino.
We went on the metro to Pozzo Strada. We had no idea what was there – we chose the station at random. Pozzo! Pozzo! Turns out it means ‘well.’ Nothing much around there – lots of low rise apartments. What was pretty cool, though, was how long and straight the road was (Roman roads here in Turin) and straight through to the Alps. Today we could see them.
Now the clocks have changed, I’m waking up at 5am. Nothing new there but hopefully I’ll get used to it. I have another time change to grapple with when we get back to London so we’ll see!
Today we decided to go to see some more Millo and then pick up some groceries. We have a map that shows where all the Millos are so we pick off four to the west of us and set off to the bus.
They are all in the Barriera di Milano, a mostly deprived area to the north west of us. The map shows them really clearly and in the end the four we’ve chosen are all within very close distance of each other. Excellent! I’m feeling lazy.
Milano is interesting. There are several ethnic communities. We find a market with many Africans selling. I buy some bits of lace and some white thread as it closes. I also find a Latin American store and come close to buying tamales but they are frozen and I don’t feel like carrying the large frozen package around.
I feel somewhat uncomfortable photographing neighbourhoods that are busy with people. Sometimes the camera is unwelcome, sometimes someone will get hostile and often I feel awkward and ugly photographing something that’s obviously downtrodden. Like a rich, disinterested voyeur/anthropologist.
Woke up to a busy morning and then it was nothing but relaxing. Liat was coming over at 1pm and the clocks had changed overnight. No photos of brunch but it was a rye bagueta with smoked salmon, a salad of rocket, beet, goat cheese and toasted hazelnuts and Krish made some quinoa salad. I wasn’t sure how it would go but things worked out well.
We sat and chatted until it got dark – about this and that – about Toronto – about London – about Italian food – about restaurants. Talk so often goes to food when you’re eating. We ate chocolates and panetonne.
And despite good intentions, we had a snoozy evening and went to bed at the new early.
Today I meant to go to Bra but woke up feeling tired and lazy. So I went with that and stayed in Torino.
A quick visit to the market for some lunch items in the morning. I’ve discovered a bread stand in the market that sells a rye baguette, although the Italian version of rye is quite light in flavour. I think one of the sellers must know me by now but not sure – today she winked at me when asking if I wanted my baguette cut in half, so maybe.
I love to see ‘characters in the market. This man sat with various cold meats (salume) and a pile of breadsticks, along with a bottle of wine. It wasn’t clear if he was selling or sharing!
I’ve been looking forward to today. We are touring the Caffarel chocolate factory!
I leave first for the coach, Krish lagging behind this morning. But all is well and soon we are off towards Pinerolo – the factory is near there in the town of Luserna San Giovanni.
It’s another hazy day – the smog level is really high – we can’t see much of the countryside as we speed past the hazy scenery. Soon enough we are at the factory gates.
They lead us into a room and it’s like Christmas. On the table in the centre are plates of Caffarel chocolates and biscuits. As well, there is still and sparkling water, lemon tea and coffee. I opt for coffee and watch as the inevitable feeding frenzy sets in. People swoop on the plates like they haven’t eaten for months and everything is gone into mouths and pockets in minutes!
The room houses some lovely historical objects – tins, spoons, paintings and photographs… the history of Caffarel is fascinating.