Monday 25 September (Day Eight)
Today was a great day! There was a good mix of all the things I love.
I was busy until about noon, then had a quick lunch with leftover pasta and meatballs. I did some research, still trying to find out about the bipparevale (monthly card). So far it’s just not clear so I tweeted to the GTT.
First we walked to Raspino, a bakery Krish had loved the last time we were here. It wasn’t open (expected) but it was the first step in exploring the Vanchiglia neighbourhood. I had three addresses that would act as markers along the way. I figured out that north of the river was Vanchiglietta, a pretty neighbourhood filled with trendy cafes and workshops. Very peaceful here. It definitely has all the earmarks of the sort of villagey feel such areas need to have to work well. Nothing much was open but I think another visit will work really well. There are plenty of places to sit quietly or have a coffee. There are also some art spaces and finally some interesting wall art.
Walking just a few streets down to the river and across it, there’s the university campus. The buildings are modern and facing inwards to a courtyard. There were a lot of students hanging around in there and I didn’t notice any fashion trends, which I find interesting. Around the side of the campus we found two gasometers and speculated whether they were working or not. It’s the first time I’ve seen a gasometer outside of the UK.
Across the street we begin to see some street art – first time during this visit that there is so much. It’s not London, that’s for sure, but it’s interesting and I’m pleased to have found it.
We headed further south of the river and are in a much more urban area. This, I discover, is Vanchiglia. The street is door to door small shops, the old dotted with the new and trendy. I like it here. It’s certainly different than its sister Vanchiglietta to the north, but it’s gritty and full of people doing their everyday things. Krish is really pleased to buy matches in a tabacchiera – Italian accomplishment.
Then it’s time to head back, through the back streets. We happened across a storefront and could see inside some very stylish costumes – beautiful! I wish I could go inside. Google tells us to head west to Corso Maurizia – a wide street alongside some university campuses, until we diverge with Corso Regina Margherita and finally are home.
Last night we had a dinner reservation – we had made it one week earlier. Last time we were here we loved this place, only I can’t remember why. Looking at the menu from home, it seemed not very different than any number of restaurants. These menus can start to look pretty much the same after a while, when everyone is serving ‘Typical Piemontese’ dishes. We’re sceptical.
This time we’re lucky. We liked it for a reason! We order two starters, one main and a dessert – typical way for us to eat, sharing. Today we’re having no pasta dish.
The starters arrive and look really good. Nothing rustic going on here! There’s an onion that’s been roasted with sausage inside and it rests on a plate that seems like it’s covered in thick cream. This turns out to be a very nice velvety cheese sauce. It’s small but rich. We also have something described as a tart but turns out to be a soufflé of a local cheese. It’s cooked perfectly and with a browned crisped top with some cooked berries on top. The plate is drizzled with honey. Both delicious. Even the breadsticks are good. Usually they taste too bland.
The stew then arrives. It’s very tender with enough sauce for the bread, and the roast potatoes are in small tender pieces. A really nice dish, although we had hesitated – mains (secondi) are never our favourite part of an Italian meal. Finally I ask for a zabaglione and it arrives with a few little madeleines and is thick, rich and properly boozy. Perfect. Only a bottle of sparkling water tonight and the bill is 43 Euros.
So confirmed – L’Acino is a big recommend for dinner in Torino. It’s near the Porta Palazzo on the edge of the Quadrilatero. But if you’re coming here, make a reservation! Walk ups are regularly turned away and you may have a week or more to wait for a table since the place has only seven or eight tables and a small bar area.